Pizza pans for my VX

[slogfilet]

Picked up a few 14" pizza pans for the 13" wheels on my VX (somehow, it's a perfect fit... go figure.)

I was looking at different ways to mount them, and then thought to remove the center caps from my aftermarket wheels. They're held on by a single bolt, and I used that to attach the pans.

My main concern is that they are attached at only one point, which is slightly off-center. I can snug them down tight enough that I can't move them by hand. I also have some industrial strength Velcro I can add opposite the bolt to mitigate any rotational forces (the stuff is seriously strong.)

What do you guys think? I plan to test this at low speeds tomorrow, but do you think it definitely needs another attachment point?

These took all of 1 minute to install.

I added the nylon spacer so I could snug down the bolt without deforming the pan.

[cfg83]

slogfilet -

I love the asymmetry and the ease of install, but I think you will lose them (but I hope I am wrong). It appears that the center cap is held in place by a groove around the edge, so it was not at risk.

CarloSW2

[SVOboy]

I would want something more, because you don't want these buggers flying off at speed. Make it so it takes at least as much trouble to rip off as your average wheel cover.

[Rokeby]

The OEM hole is drilled in a raised boss on the wheel. I suppose there is a
question if it is to provide flat surface for the OEM center cap to rest/register
on, or whether it is meant to add the material removed in making the
drilled/tapped hole.

I would be tempted to drill and tap two more holes in the wheel at the same
radius as the OEM hole in a triangular pattern. (Slightly longer nylon spacers
would be needed for these holes/screws.)

Just for the record, given the usual "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" screw threads,
is there a tendency for screws to unscrew themselves on the wheels on one
side of the car? If so, which side?

Also, thinking of possible electrolysis due dissimilar metals goobering up the
threads on the screws, given the need for a secure, reliable attachment, what
type of screws would be best; mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum,
nylon?

[spydyr]

Originally Posted by Rokeby

The OEM hole is drilled in a raised boss on the wheel. I suppose there is a
question if it is to provide flat surface for the OEM center cap to rest/register
on, or whether it is meant to add the material removed in making the
drilled/tapped hole.

I would be tempted to drill and tap two more holes in the wheel at the same
radius as the OEM hole in a triangular pattern. (Slightly longer nylon spacers
would be needed for these holes/screws.)

Just for the record, given the usual "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" screw threads,
is there a tendency for screws to unscrew themselves on the wheels on one
side of the car? If so, which side?

Also, thinking of possible electrolysis due dissimilar metals goobering up the
threads on the screws, given the need for a secure, reliable attachment, what
type of screws would be best; mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum,
nylon?

Screw mostly come loose because of the vibration. You see as it vibrates froms the engine rumble, and from the bumps, etc the screws will loosen. Unless you used an airpowered drill with a screwdriver bit then they will gradually loosen over time. Loctite can reduse it a bit.

As for the screws, If your rims are steel avoid anything galvanized. Since your pans are probably just aluminum, use a stainless steel with a tiny ammount of plumbers tape just incase. Alot of people on here have pizza pans and I have yet to hear anybody talk about problems with metal types yet.

just my .02

[Phantom]

To protect the screws use galvanized screws and anti-seize or if you are worried about it coming undone use some lock-tight to help hold it. To prevent the pan from spinning as easy if it gets loose, add two more holes and insert the screws with a bolt on the back that way one screw is holding the pan on the other two are resting on the inside edge of the center cap hole.

[cfg83]

Rokeby -

Originally Posted by Rokeby

The OEM hole is drilled in a raised boss on the wheel. I suppose there is a
question if it is to provide flat surface for the OEM center cap to rest/register
on, or whether it is meant to add the material removed in making the
drilled/tapped hole.

I would be tempted to drill and tap two more holes in the wheel at the same
radius as the OEM hole in a triangular pattern. (Slightly longer nylon spacers
would be needed for these holes/screws.)

Just for the record, given the usual "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" screw threads,
is there a tendency for screws to unscrew themselves on the wheels on one
side of the car? If so, which side?

Also, thinking of possible electrolysis due dissimilar metals goobering up the
threads on the screws, given the need for a secure, reliable attachment, what
type of screws would be best; mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum,
nylon?

You read my mind. I was also thinking triangular pattern, but I wasn't thinking that you needed to tap any holes. Instead, get a shallow metal cup/bowl-thingy that fits into the pre-existing circular groove. Then, attach this cup-thingy to the pizza pan with two of the bolts. The third bolt goes through the pizza-pan and the cup and into the wheel. That way it is still a one-screw attachment. In essence, you are emulating/extending the original center-cap.

I think a "one-screw" design is vulnerable to unscrewing itself, especially if it is the center-point of the wheel. I think it would unscrew on the passenger side. That is why I would only do a one-screw option if I was able to obtain reverse-thread screws for the passenger side.

CarloSW2