Pre-modded: 1949 Ford Freighter Pick Up

[gumby79]

On 7.3 international /Ford the retained casting sand IS still a problem. It plugs up the oil cooler resulting in over heating. The solution add a coolent filter. 9DdpMOilBoSJAAyqWz_AGM7sn3JHI8I9sirGUymEqWRChRv86t qqctlIqUdSxoCPknw_wcB

[oldtamiyaphile]

So much stuff to research. I'd like to avoid doing everything twice

Here's an interesting item I found:

JEGS Performance Products 51810 | Buy JEGS Remote Mount Electric A/C Compressor at JEGS

9-30v electric remote mount A/C compressor. One of the Prius' best tricks is being able to run the A/C with the engine off. $1200 is a lot, but I think I'll pay it. On previous cars, I've had massive hits in MPG during 110*F+ days because not only does the A/C take a lot of power, but the engine has to idle just to run the compressor.

I'm a bit surprised such a thing exists, I'd previously given up on the idea of running the A/C off a 12v battery. As it stands, I think I'd go with a dual battery hybrid 12/24v set up. I think the step up to 24v wouldn't gain a whole lot of efficiency, but if I'm running the A/C off it it will likely prove worthwhile. Solar panels on a hard tonneau will mean I can use excess power to keep the cabin cool when parked.

The rated 31A draw (at which voltage?!) means the solar panels (around 400W, rated) won't keep up with it of course, but that all depends on the duty cycle on the day, the F1 cab is tiny, with small near vertical windows, so all things considered the A/C shouldn't have to work too hard. Good insulation will also be a priority.

Remote mount means it can go low and further back, as ideally I'm hoping to get close to 50/50 weight distribution (probably won't happen with a flattie).

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

That's an interesting base for a project. Anyway, apart from the drivetrain, it seems like one of your first priorities would be fitting seatbelts to the truck, at least some old-school lap belts. And even if you end up adding some modern amenities such as A/C and power steering, I guess you agree with me that it would be cool if the interior looked the closest to stock possible.

Originally Posted by freebeard

Residual sand has become suspect over the years. OTOH Motor City Flathead suggests unpressurised cooling systems and high compression heads with poor sealing as additional causes.

They also offer a new, re-engineered flathead block in 289 to 339cu in.

The folks at Motor City Flathead really seem to know a lot about it. I've always been a Chevy guy, but actually became interested in flathead engines when I found out more about Mark Kirby and those re-engineered flatheads. Sometimes I even get myself wondering about fitting one into an early F-250 Superduty...

[oldtamiyaphile]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

That's an interesting base for a project. Anyway, apart from the drivetrain, it seems like one of your first priorities would be fitting seatbelts to the truck, at least some old-school lap belts. And even if you end up adding some modern amenities such as A/C and power steering, I guess you agree with me that it would be cool if the interior looked the closest to stock possible.

What I wanted really was a Pro-Touring build, which is essentially an old car built for race track use. But the better a car is on track, the more boring it is on the road, the most fun car I've driven on the road is the Fiat 500 (and that includes Skylines and Porsches).

The seat appears to be non-original, it's a fixed base & back and is quite unlike any of the US F1's I've seen. It's also mounted up on some hardwood blocks! So I kind of have to decide on what to do with the seat first, then I'll be able to work out the belts. For now I'm mostly sticking to 60km/h zones, which is most of my driving anyway, and slowing at any intersection etc. I figure it's probably still a bit safer than riding a motorbike, and lots of people still do that.

Some driving impressions, still on target for 15mpg. I've started getting more into EOC, but I don't really trust the 6V starter to engine off at lights (even though it starts faster than a modern car).

EOC with a crash box isn't a lot of fun as you have to keep your foot on the clutch. Normally with a syncro box the syncros will slow the input shaft, with a crash box, you have to wait until it stops on it's own, which is basically far too long to be useful.

All things considered, it coasts pretty well. I'd guess the CD at around 0.4, as it's weight is similar to my Renault and Jeep and coast performance is somewhere between the two. I'm happy with that considering the off road tyres and low pressures (ride is bad enough without pumping them up!). Aero had me worried on these, and was a factor in picking the F1 over other trucks of the era. The narrow cab helps reduce the frontal area, it's about the same width as my Fiat 500, and I tend to prefer a snug cabin (on reason I went with the Fiat over a VW Up).

[oldtamiyaphile]

Some detail pics:






Catching up with some other oldies:

And first day of work:


The bed's been lined with ply and ally checker plate, so it's now a fraction too narrow to take 4' wide materials, that will have to be fixed. I like the step side look, but I'd like a wider bed.

[freebeard]

Everything appears as it should. That bed is sized for a 3/4-1ton capacity. What's the biggest piece of diamond plate aluminum? Enough to build a difusser for the rear?

What I think would be good is an aerocap made like this:

[oldtamiyaphile]

First numbers are in. 13.5mpg or 17.4l/100km. Could be worse I suppose.

Looks like a modern drive train is going to win out. Unfortunately flatties leak badly, and there seems to be no real fix. Right now Ive leaks from just about anywhere possible, including the diff and trans. Also late flatheads lost their hardened valve seats

Looking at a 1UZ, T5 and Ford 8.8. Modern leak free and probably about 200lbs lighter than stock.

There's a 4x8 sheet of checker plate in the back. Enough for a good bit of undertray. Though it's probably a bit on the heavy side.

[gone-ot]

Love those old Ford "flat-head" engines!

[MobilOne]

The front suspension is a king pin suspension, is it not? If so, some new synthetic grease should help the ride and steering. Did it come with one tail light? I think that a second tail light was an extra cost option. Wait, that's a 49 model, not a 40 model; so two tail lights standard!

[freebeard]

Disassemble the leaf springs, add a strip of copper screen impregnated with grease between each leaf and reassemble.

They used to do that, then wrap the spring in leather to protect the grease.