Project MPG

[HighMPG]

What spark plugs is everyone using?
The 2 I been looking at are
NGK Iridium IX or G-power
or
Bosch Platinum +4
And has anybody used these?
I searched around the forums and was wondering what everyone is using. I think I am getting the NGK Iridiums

[oil pan 4]

Not using anything fancy.
Over all bosch platinum +4 and other high end doda plugs are a waste of money.

Here is one for you.
Ever hear of indexing spark plugs?

[HighMPG]

Yes, I came from 15+ years of racing cars on and off track but funny thing I never had to index them or choose any other brand but NGKs in my rotary cars pointless pretty much in a Wankel motor due to plug design but now I may have to get a set of washers for my FE! Time to learn some new things about plugs and piston motors. I have used a set of Bosch P4 in my old E34 BMW with success and noticeable difference but maybe because she was old and always used normal plugs but I noticed better low end TQ in the M20 motor.
What's up with,
"Pulstar I-Series Iridium - Pulstar Pulse Plug"
Brand Information
Tested Benefits:
Greater engine torque up to 9%
Greater horsepower up to 7%
Quicker throttle response
Better fuel economy up to 10%
Lower emissions across the board reductions
Enhanced driving experience.
Manufacturer Information
Pulstar® is a high powered spark plug replacement. Pulstar® Pulse Plug with "pulsed power" technology include over 1 million watts of ignition power. Over 1000 amps of discharge current. Flame front propagation more than twice as fast as a conventional spark plug. Precise ignition relative to crank angle. Plug and Play, no modifications/adjustments necessary. More power, less fuel guaranteed."
Is this for the unicorn corral?I think so!

[D.O.G.]

All the independant tests I've read of Pulstar plugs agree....they are Unicorn pellets.

Actually the independant tests also seem to say no fancy iridium, platinum, etc plug will give you better fuel economy, they're all about extended service life.

The general rule of thumb is, use whatever was OEM. NGK for Japanese cars, Bosch for Euro cars.

Plug indexing may be worthwhile for racing, but I'm pretty sure most of us wouldn't notice the difference driving for FE.

[some_other_dave]

The rule of thumb for Bosch Platinum plugs is: Take a hammer to them, throw them in the garbage, and then get some decent spark plugs. The QC on them is lousy; they like to foul and the little tiny speck of platinum likes to fall out of the plug. And I know at least one friend who blames the loss of an engine to the ceramic electrode breaking up inside the cylinder and scoring the cylinder wall badly.

The "+4" and "+2" plugs are the same junky cheap platinum plugs with one or three extra outer electrodes added on. They're still crap IMHO.

Bosch actually does make good platinum plugs, but they're quite expensive and not usually something you'll find in a normal parts store. Their silver and copper plugs are just fine, in my experience.

As are NGKs and most other decent quality brands; I have yet to have a problem with an NGK plug in my CRX.

Those "pulse" plugs appear to be very expensive plugs that perform about the same as regular plugs.

-soD

[HighMPG]

Yea I figured, it's pretty funny seeing how everyone markets their cr*p.
I been using strictly NGK for 19 years in my RX-7 and I used the bosch +4 on the BMW once and never checked them. Cousin blew the motor on my E34 from gear holding and over revving.
Before they always had normal bosch platinum plugs from my own experience . It just looks more like a breq9/7 plug that came out of my rotary so i figured what the heck. I would never buy them again because the price. I am a big fan of NGK esp because they make the best wankel plug, so if it can take the torture of a rotary motor it can handle any piston for sure. I was changing plugs every oil change *2500-3000miles* due to my 10,000 rpm redline full throttle use of the motor. Thank god I have a economic car, I been shopping around for Honda Insights 00-04 and found a nice green 02 I may pick up in the next week or two!
Look what EcoModders did to me! lol

[HighMPG]

So i went about 134 miles and the gas meter is falling drastically, I am down to almost half where it moves the fastest. it slows down in it's sweep to low around 1/4 tank but it seems like it's draining quick.
I hit 155k miles yesterday tho!
I am going to run my car till she runs out of gas to get an accurate reading in my MPG estimate. When I get really low I will carry a small tank of gas around with me.


I was checking this1995 EG6 Honda Civic HB CX 5-Speed out today, the guy was asking $1000, he claimed a clean title with 5 years back reg and 94,000 miles. We started it right up, had really dirty thick oil, I removed the oil fill cap and smelled but no gas or burning smells.Had Aftermarker headers and a pipe to the cat. It has a broken passenger door glass and cats have started to make nest on the pass floor. I would like to get this car out before the rain comes but want it for a little cheaper. It is missing tons of parts like the whole intake and some of the lights/signals. It also has a cone filter attached right at the TB intake manifold with no intake pipe! lol
Can anyone check out the title or carfax for me?
This could be my next project.
I checked under trunk carpet and front radiator support and no visible accident damage and the paint looks original with some dings and dents.

[oil pan 4]

The headers might not hurt.
The Cone filter on the TB might be a bad idea, shouldn't there be a MAF sensor on there?

Be sure to look out for some of the retarded low buck to no buck mods the tuners do to ruin these cars.
It appears they did something to damage the fuel economy. The car looks like its at normal hight but make sure the springs have not been torched (heating springs with a torch to lower the car, very bad idea).

I noticed a lot of headers are set up to block flow to the main oxygen sensor, to make the engine run richer for more power.
I have done a mod like this to trick the 2nd oxygen sensor into reading that a catalytic converter was still installed. It normally works.
Blocking flow over and through the oxygen sensor makes it read exhaust as leaner than it really is.

[HighMPG]

The Civic was pretty decent condition but I would totally swap in a Lean Burn =D
He would sell the the shell for $350 without the motor and I keep the transmission, which is the same as the VX. I am going to offer him $350 tomorrow and see what he says. It is very low miles tho and the motor sounds great, now where did that AFM go? I never owned a honda but i found plenty of pictures of them with intakes and they do not run a big AFM like most cars, maybe one of those heated sensors?
I am not looking for a civic to rice out but restore as close to OEM VX motor and possibly just stripp it to lighten it up and push the MPG barriers, ya know! Maybe I will just try to wheel and deal to get it cheaper with the motor and see how long this motor lasts before it blows. Or try selling it before it goes but it does only have 92k miles on it!
Here is a different engine bay photo i found when searching google for " OEM 1995 CX engine bay" It just looks more normal with a stock air box


After looking at the picture the engine bay dosent seem to be missing to many things =D

[oil pan 4]

If you are looking for MPGs I say rebuild your own engine.
I have had terrible luck buying used motors.