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Old 11-11-2008, 05:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Recently purchased 1994 Geo Metro XFi




I recently purchased a 1994 Geo Metro XFi from the original owner and came with everything stock. If you look closely you can see the XFi sticker on the hatch just over the right brake light. The VIN# is 2C1MS24.... The engine has 260,000 freeway miles on it and the body and interior are in VG condition. I paid $1000.00 for it. I removed the spark plugs and they were in excellent condition with light beige deposit on all the tips. The engine compression on cylinder 1 is 134 PSI and on cylinders 2 & 3 the compression is 160 PSI.

First Question: Am I getting good compression for this engine with all the miles it has on it?

Second Question: What is the compression on a new XFi engine?

Third Question: Is it possible to do the engine timing on my 94 XFi without computer equipment? (I own a timing light and tach) If the answer is yes if you could provide specifics that would be much appreciated! I have the Chilton's 1985-2000 Repair Manual for Chevy Sprint/Metro, Geo Metro and Suzuki Swift but it is lacking in detail in regard to performing a timing check on the 94 XFi.

Thanks,

Z33ky

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Old 11-11-2008, 08:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't own a metro, however, I believe the compression tests should be at 200 PSI +/- 10 in a new/rebuilt G10 engine. CoyoteX? MetroMPG? JohnnyMullet? Help this man!

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Old 11-11-2008, 01:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi Z33ky - welcome to the site.

Preface: I'm not sure if the XFi motor's compression is different (it could be slightly higher, owing to different valve timing/lift/duration).

The spec on my '98 garden variety engine is 199 PSI @ 250 RPM according to the factory service manual.

Quote:
Minimum allowable compression pressure is 156.4 psi @ 250 RPM

Important: the maximum allowable compression pressure difference between any two cylinders is 14.2 psi @ 250 RPM
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Old 11-11-2008, 01:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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160 is a bit low. If you are up to it then the best thing would be put a new set of rings in it and replace the exhaust valves at the same time.

You can do the rings without taking the motor out just pull the head and oil pan and just pop each one out and swap rings and rod bearings then put it back. If you have a hone you can lightly hone the cylinders. partsdinosaur.com has an xfi ring package and exhaust valves. The cheapest place for a gasket kit with new head bolts is ebay. The whole setup should not cost more than $125 or so and will make the engine as good as new.

As far as engine timing look under the hood at the sticker and it will show you what 2 wires to jump on the factory plug near the drivers shock tower. Just jump those wires then set the timing like normal. Take the wire off and check timing again to make sure it is working properly(moving when you rev it) and you are set.

A properly running xfi driven easy should get you around 52mpg so if everything is good you should be right around that. With the rings worn and a slightly leaking exhaust valve you are probably going to be around 40mpg with it. But the good thing is these are very easy engines to work on so it is not a big deal to put rings in it.
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Old 11-11-2008, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Another unrelated thought: obviously your XFi's wheels are aftermarket. If you haven't already calculated the difference in circumference (affecting your speed/odometer), you'll need to apply a correction factor to get accurate fuel economy figures.

AND - even if the engine is due for a rebuild, for the price you paid, it's likely worth it if you can do the work yourself. A rust-free Cali XFi is worth the trouble!
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Old 11-11-2008, 08:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hello and welcome! First off, the compression is slightly low. You can run it for now, but you will have to do a rebuild including exhaust valves and possibly rings. Compression should be around 200 PSI. Here is a 1.0L head repair guide I posted with pictures. Your older model will be slightly different, but it all applies.........

1.0L Head Repair Guide

The timing is done with a timing light and you also have to jump the timing connector which should be posted on the tag under the hood. The connector is usually on the driver's side strut tower. If you need help, just ask!
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Damnit, I forgot that thread is posted in the Member's only section. You can also read that guide on page #1 of this thread...........

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ect-2936.html?
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the great responses and kind generosity! Below is a photo of what I think is the 'factory plug' or 'timing connector' (correct me if I'm wrong) and according to the Chilton's manual I need a 'fused jumper wire' to jump 2 of the pins located in this connector and I see the diagram under the hood where to connector the fused jumper wire (the lower left & lower center pins). Should I purchase a 'fused jumper wire' or just make one and if I make one what kind of fuse should I use?



Excellent job on that 1.0L Head Repair Guide Johnny and thanks for all the work and effort that went into making it!

I failed to mention in my initial post that the wheels were not stock but are 13" wheels.
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No problem Johnny because I simply joined the GeoMetroForum.
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have never used a fuse. Just strip back the ends of a piece of wire and stick in the connector and you are set

there is one slot with a missing wire, just use that to figure out what ones to jumper when looking at the picture.

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