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Old 10-10-2012, 10:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Also test by grabbing upper radiator hose with your hand. If fully warmed up you won't be able to keep your hand on it with a firm grip. If you can keep holding it your engine is not fully warm.

Point is, don't just go by heat coming from vents. ScanGauge engine temp readout (FWT) should be good info tough.

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Old 10-10-2012, 11:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miller88 View Post
My Jeep, with a big cast-iron engine and mechanical fan that is ALWAYS spinning full bore ... warms up almost instantly. Never understood that one. Hmmm.
Not surprising. Your Jeep probably gets 18mpg, which would quickly warm up an engine.

Concerning your T-stat; I'd just replace it if it's easy and cheap. My grandpa's S10 was throwing a "low engine coolant temp" code, and I bought a new T-stat for $8 and had it replaced in 5min.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, had to pull them off. Had a hot spell the last few days ... was riding around with the heat on and the cooling fan kept kicking on.

Gotta say, the transmission shifted smoooooooooooooooth.

Oh well. I know it makes a difference in heat - any one know if it would make a difference in aerodynamics? Would the air create a cushion that would force the other air around the grille?
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miller88 View Post

Oh well. I know it makes a difference in heat - any one know if it would make a difference in aerodynamics? Would the air create a cushion that would force the other air around the grille?
as long as there are no holes in the block and it is set back and not flush with the bumper. it would create and cushion to force air over, it is the same properties as the bed of a truck uncovered, with the tailgate up the air creates a cushion to allow the air to flow more smoothly over the bed.

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