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Old 07-27-2009, 10:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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No no, I have an EF because that is cooler. Silly Christ!

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Old 07-27-2009, 10:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If you want an EF - I've got a clean NY title and some VIN plates for you. :P
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You're devious. I need to reply to some of the other things you said
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Christ - Finish the wiper remove will be cake, so no worries.

Rear discs would suck for FE though. I'm hoping to get some rear AL shoes off an insight

Alignment. I know about the washer trick but camber isn't much of an issue. I really just need good springs and to set the toe
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Visibility: I have heard several negative reports on Fog-X. Too bad, because Rain-X is good stuff! I wouldn't bother with the Rain-X wiper blades, though. I believe that stuff has to go onto a clean windshield to make any difference.

Rear wiper delete: Look at the junkyards for an HF hatch. Or any hatch (hopefully the right color!) without a wiper. It'll be lighter, too!

Alignment: There are things you can to to change the alignment specs. In particular, it's very easy to add positive camber to the rear wheels by putting shims (or washers) between the upper lateral arm mount and the car's body. Make sure to use longer bolts, though, because you really don't want those falling out.... There is evidently some adjustment in the rear toe link as well, even without swapping or adding parts.

Brakes: Try to find the early HF aluminum drums. Good luck in the search, because you won't be the only one looking. The drum setup should be lighter than disks, so keep your drums unless you want to swap for ease of maintenance or for looks. (It's not like hypermilers really use their brakes, right? )

If your pedal slowly sinks to the floor while the car is stopped, the problem is with the master cylinder itself, not the booster or the vacuum system.

Fluids: As Christ says, the light is not the most reliable indicator. Borrow a known-good mechanical gauge and see what it can tell you. Low pressure at idle on a well-worn engine isn't that unusual, depending on how low it is. And on how low your idle RPM is.

-soD
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Old 07-31-2009, 01:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Finished the wiper delete and added water leak issues to the list. Will post a DIY on the wiper delete soon
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:06 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy View Post
Finished the wiper delete and added water leak issues to the list. Will post a DIY on the wiper delete soon
Ben - Where do you have water leaks?
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Is says in the first post. The two I know about will be easy to fix, however there is on leaking into the driver side, puddling behind the seat while the car is stationary in rain. That one will take some searching
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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With the assist -

Pull out your tail light assembly. Behind it, you'll find a foam rubber gasket. Trace this out onto a piece of 1/4 or 3/8" craft foam, flip it over, and do it again. Cut those out, and put them behind your tail lights instead of the OEM gaskets.

Or, just go to Honda Dealer and get a pair, they're not that expensive.

Water leaking into the open wheel well - Door seal. Fairly expensive for a DIY type. Just find the leaking section, poke a hole in it, and put some silly cone in the hole (alot). Let it set for awhile, before you use the door again, so it doesn't squish it all over.

Also - remove the weather strip in that section from the mounting, insert paper or a piece of rubber inner tube behind it, and replace it on the mounts.

Mystery location - Hatch seal, just above the helper shock. Check the rubber seal, do the same thing as w/ the driver door, or replace it.
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:26 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I was planning on ATVing the gasket, since I know where the leak is. I might just buy a new one though when I go back to get my block off plate.

Thanks for the other advise, will check.

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