11-14-2014, 11:24 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Not Doug
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Show Low, AZ
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I am having difficulty on the corners. I do not think that I can really make styrofoam bend like that. I cut the front pieces every two inches, but they keep popping off of the back piece, which is breaking. Should I apply a layer of resin and fiberglass to the back just to shape the styrofoam? Should I then fill in the gaps with Bondo? I do need the Tyvek suit and respirator any time that I work with resin, right?
Thank you very much!
Last edited by Xist; 12-13-2016 at 11:19 AM..
Reason: changed "ever" to "every."
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11-14-2014, 12:34 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tustin, CA
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Can you take a picture of your bumper/styrofoam? sorry, im a "visual" person
Yes, the resin does give out a strong odor. If you work outdoors, you should be fine. However, if you work in your garage, i suggest a mask for the fumes.
I use this kind
3M Paint Project Respirator-Medium-6211PA1-A at The Home Depot
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11-14-2014, 04:55 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Not Doug
Join Date: Jun 2012
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I have been removing screws on the passenger side to work on the styrofoam. I could not get a good picture while holding everything, and I did not think to remove the styrofoam; I slowly released the ABS and it snapped the foam again.
How long would it take to remove my bumper, set up the fiberglass, let it dry, and reinstall my bumper?
Last edited by Xist; 11-14-2014 at 05:07 PM..
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11-15-2014, 03:21 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Adelaide, Australia
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Before you get too enthusiastic about fiberglassing: if you're using polyester fiberglass resin, it will eat the styrofoam.
For bonding to styrofoam you want to be using epoxy resin, and in particular one without the stronger solvents - generic 'marine grade' epoxy resin is generally OK, as they tend not to use the more volatile solvents that attack styrofoam (this is because solvents tend to leave an ever-so-slightly porous surface, which is bad news in marine applications).
If unsure, mix up a spoonful of resin and apply it to some scrap styrofoam. The styrofoam may just 'go away', which is obviously bad, but otherwise leave it on overnight to be sure, and test for adhesion the next day. A small amounts of solvent can be just as bad, e.g. car body filler directly on styrofoam will often look fine, but a day after application will have eaten about 1-2mm underneath, leaving the putty completely un-connected to the styrofoam.
Last edited by Madact; 11-15-2014 at 05:27 AM..
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11-30-2014, 02:42 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
Join Date: May 2011
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I wouldn't mess with all that. Instead, get a piece of cardboard and cut a curve in it while holding it horizontal, keep putting it up and trying until you get the shape right (as a template). They buy some 1x8 pine and transfer the template shape to the pine and cut it with a jig saw, then screw the bottom edge of the plastic to the pine. If it looks good you might take the pine back off and cut a curve around the back so you have about 3 inches of pine left; that way it shouldn't hang down too low in back. Or attach the back edge to a couple of hanger straps, even easier.
I wouldn't attach it right at the bottom edge, but maybe an inch or so up.
I have seen people try to fix broken motorcycle fairings (which are abs) using fiberglass on the backside. It rarely sticks properly.
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07-21-2015, 03:42 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Not Doug
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Show Low, AZ
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Could not push the car much higher than 2,000 RPM.
There are mountains between my house and Mother's. If I left by sunrise, I could maintain 55 MPH up a good incline, but that was not a solution. I started this thread: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...fan-32260.html, but there is a great deal that I need to do before working on that, like learning what all of those words mean, and understanding how they were used together. Also, being unemployed, with a rapidly-dwindling bank account, I am focusing far more on obtaining an income than spending money that I do not have.
So, I measured the back of the vent, and cut a hole to fit. I am not sure why I did not cut the bottom. Somehow, I thought that enough air would get through, but it only tilted in about two inches, so I thought that I would be creating an aerodynamic mess. I folded it under as you see:
but I need to put in three more sides, and I still need to make it rigid. I have plenty more of the rolled plastic, plus a couple of sheets that I purchased two years ago. I plan on cutting pieces to create a box, that way I do not create an aerodynamic mess inside.
I have had reservations regarding the vent, but going up one hill, my engine still started warming too much. Hopefully, closing the box will be adequate, although I am also supposed to prevent air from flowing past the radiator, so that would theoretically make another difference.
If this hole is not always large enough, then I cannot use the vent, because it would only permit roughly half of the air flow.
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07-21-2015, 11:59 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Not banned yet
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Texas Coast, close to Houston
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Blue - '03 Chevy S-10, LS
Thanks: 423
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sorry to hear about your income. the older I get the more it crosses my mind. I have 14 in and 6 more until I'm forced to retire. hope times are good by then.
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2003 S-10, 2.2L, 5 speed, ext cab long bed.
So far: DRL delete, remove bed mount toolbox.
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07-21-2015, 06:57 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Not Doug
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Show Low, AZ
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Thanks! It is interesting, when I was coming home from Germany, I researched in-demand careers, and Speech-Language Pathology kept coming up. In-demand and $60,000 starting salary? Yes please!
I needed to earn a second Bachelor's, but despite feeling like I studied far harder than anyone else in my class, I graduated below a B average, while ASU rejects applicants with straight As. I looked through over two hundred grad programs in the U.S. and the lowest GPA requirement was 3.12.
I applied for tuition assistance through the Guard and wanted to transfer to Northern Arizona University, which is not as competitive as ASU or U of A, but they also have a great summers-only program, and it is easier to get into that.
Work as an SLPA, transfer to NAU, and start their program when I leave the Guard.
I never received tuition assistance, though, or even a response.
We were always told SLPAs earned $15 hourly, which would have been okay for a while, but I know two SLPAs, and they complain they are unable to support themselves. Also, there are currently two job listings on Indeed.com in my area. Other job search sites show the same results. It looks like the clinics where I did my training just filled their one position. However, I decided to do a Google search instead, and pulled up Indeed and other job search sites, but also found a Craigslist ad for Mom's town, offering $35 an hour! Then I found one far closer to home, with the same pay! The first company said they would not consider anyone for employment until they had their license and everything else they needed. The second company gave less information, so I e-mailed and asked if they had any openings for SLPAs, and was told to send a résumé.
Right... my résumé:
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09-24-2015, 03:16 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Not Doug
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Show Low, AZ
Posts: 12,232
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I still have the rest of my rolled plastic, but my other ecomodding materials, campaign signs, all of my foam, and everything else, was thrown out by someone cleaning the shed that we never use.
How well would attaching additional layers to the back strengthen it? Would clamps be adequate to hold it in place while it cements? Would cement be sufficient once it dries?
I really do not like the look of the screws.
I also want to box in the opening. That should keep air going into my grille instead of past and below my bumper. I could probably block it until I take another road trip.
What would be best to square off the hole? I tried to find right-angle ABS before, without success. I know that I could just bend some, which worked okay for the bottom, but I want it to look nice!
Thank you very much for your input!
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11-28-2017, 08:42 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Feather Foot
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: michigan
Posts: 33
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Thanked 40 Times in 15 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xist
There are mountains between my house and Mother's. If I left by sunrise, I could maintain 55 MPH up a good incline, but that was not a solution. I started this thread: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...fan-32260.html, but there is a great deal that I need to do before working on that, like learning what all of those words mean, and understanding how they were used together. Also, being unemployed, with a rapidly-dwindling bank account, I am focusing far more on obtaining an income than spending money that I do not have.
So, I measured the back of the vent, and cut a hole to fit. I am not sure why I did not cut the bottom. Somehow, I thought that enough air would get through, but it only tilted in about two inches, so I thought that I would be creating an aerodynamic mess. I folded it under as you see:
but I need to put in three more sides, and I still need to make it rigid. I have plenty more of the rolled plastic, plus a couple of sheets that I purchased two years ago. I plan on cutting pieces to create a box, that way I do not create an aerodynamic mess inside.
I have had reservations regarding the vent, but going up one hill, my engine still started warming too much. Hopefully, closing the box will be adequate, although I am also supposed to prevent air from flowing past the radiator, so that would theoretically make another difference.
If this hole is not always large enough, then I cannot use the vent, because it would only permit roughly half of the air flow.
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a vent grill??....that is genius!
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