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Old 10-05-2009, 01:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Good idea to take the old fittings to the parts store. All my cars use 4 different fittings at the master cylinder. One is std metric line, the other 3 require adapters. Also you might have to look around. The only store in my area that is worthwhile for brake lines and fittings is the local Auto Value. All of the other stores are pretty sparse on fittings and knowledge.

One thing I would do when installing the new lines is try to isolate them from the frame/body as much as you can. Use a chunk of rubber hose or something. Otherwise the new line will start rusting out at the contact point, while the rest of the line will be just fine.

I just use premade lengths. It is easy to form with my fingers. Measure well before going to the store, so you know just how much you need, then you don't end up with a bunch of extra to take up with funny bends and loops.

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Old 10-05-2009, 04:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
Good point. I found out the inconvenient way that while one of the rear lines on the truck had the same fittings on each end, the other one didn't. What on earth for? Only Ford knows. Stupid adapter was expensive too.
I think the factory makes them this way to make the assembly line more idiot proof.
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Never underestimate the ability of an idiot to screw things up! I once bought a 57 Chevy parts car and when I pulled the motor I found that whoever put the pressure plate in put it in backwards so the springs hit the heads of the flywheel bolts. It was then driven that way for some time since the flywheel bolts had a groove worn into them and those aren't soft bolts!
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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If you're not buying lines made specifically for your car, you will probably need to bend the new lines. (Check to see if there are any bends.) I strongly recommend a real tubing bender to replicate the bends, because it is less likely to crush the tubing than most other DIY methods.

-soD
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yea, they're not hard to bend. Bend it around something cylindrical, like a paint can or something, to make sure you don't crush it.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Well, it popped a brake line. The right rear. PITA. Fortunately this happened at home, not when out. I don't have time to diddle with it so I'm taking it to a shop open tomorrow, which is a rarity for down here. I don't have the time or patience right now to diddle with brake lines or bleeding them, so off to the shop she goes.
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:15 AM   #17 (permalink)
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its not a huge job, just get the car up high...like two or three feet

I had the same problem in Jan. and i just cut some longer pieces of 14 inch oak and stook them up under the jacking points. replaced ALL the line. You can gat it in rolls from O'rielly auto parts or most parts stores. get all new fittings, a tubing cutter and a flare tool. The olds used double and bubble flare on the tubing. I also bought a bender and it came in handy but i needed hands in gloves for the tighter complex bends. Actually i had to wear gloves the entire time because i was on cement and it was about 0 F out!!!!!(stiff line) Check your brakes and fuel lines while you are at it, I had to replace mine because a rusty hole spilled gas....then i found the bad brake lines.....have fun...
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Yep, the rears are on the docket. Along with the bad sections of fuel line. I suspect the car will run a lot better when it has new fuel and brake lines.

I'm thinking I want to buy a lot of shorter sections to reduce the amount I have to flare since I've never flared line before, and learning on the job doesn't sound like much fun.
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:33 PM   #19 (permalink)
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just remember the more fittings you use the more chances and places you provide

for RUST and leaks....I only had to flare 10 ends...4 for the M.C., 2 for the front, 2 for the back, and 4 for the P.V.s ....no, wait...4...2...2...4.......12? yeah, 12 fittings.

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