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Old 10-30-2013, 10:38 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerolla View Post
No way a scangauge will save me more money than two extra gears would;
Just checking: you did see the advice was to find yourself a USED SG or UG? Which you could later re-sell?

If you're resourceful enough to be able to acquire & maintain/modify an ultra-cheap used car, biding your time to also acquire a cheap, used car computer/scan tool/MPG gauge shouldn't be much of a stretch.

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Old 10-30-2013, 10:59 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Dont worry about it, just air the tires up and coast as much as you can in neutral. You have a $150 car that is getting you over 30 MPG. If that was me I would be tickled pink on the purchase price and not too worried about anything else. The shift points have been debated here repeatedly and the conclusion is it makes little difference in overall mileage how you accelerate within reasonable limits.
Around here any old Corolla that you can get in and drive sells for 10 times that money.

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Old 10-30-2013, 12:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I won't tell you to buy one but I will lay out a couple reasons for it.

It may not save you more money than 2 extra gears, but unless you do the work your self(and value your time at close to $0), and have access to free/super cheap parts. The ROE for an ultra gauge is much quicker.

I Have no doubt that my new ultra gauge has saved me more than it cost. Went from upper 30s to low 40s on my escort. The pay off was less than 3 months.

Yes a 5 speed will improve things, but you will still be scratching your head as to what rpm you are running at and if it is at an efficient load.

Everything RPM, gear ratio, engine load and speed works out to = some instant MPG, those instant MPGs average into a tank mpg. a $61 bit of kit (ultragauge) will work that out for you on the fly. No matter what transmission you have it helps to have some feedback.

Add to that the likelihood (especially on a 16 year old car) that eventually you will get a CEL makes a compelling case for some sort of OBDII readout.

If you are dead set against some sort of read out then I can say that in general a the more ratios available the more likely the engine will be in a more efficient RPM/Load range and more likely the final ratio will get cruising RPM down.
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Last edited by bestclimb; 10-30-2013 at 02:09 PM..
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Old 10-30-2013, 12:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Stab a hole in the exhaust. Listen when the shift changes happen. Hey, it's a free mod if you are absolutely against buying a scangauge (which is the best idea here). A OBDII blue tooth connection is also a lot cheaper and can connect to your phone as well.

A modern smart phone can tell you your MPH if your speedometer is also not functioning.

http://www.amazon.com/Small-Elm327-O.../dp/B005M1AVFQ

This option won't be as nice as a dedicated scan gauge, but it will still give the same data points.
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Old 10-30-2013, 02:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
Dont worry about it, just air the tires up and coast as much as you can in neutral. You have a $150 car that is getting you over 30 MPG. If that was me I would be tickled pink on the purchase price and not too worried about anything else. The shift points have been debated here repeatedly and the conclusion is it makes little difference in overall mileage how you accelerate within reasonable limits.
Around here any old Corolla that you can get in and drive sells for 10 times that money.

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Mech
This.

BTW, I wouldn't punch a hole in your exhaust, maybe disconnect the muffler for testing and then re-attach it.
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeanBurn View Post
This.

BTW, I wouldn't punch a hole in your exhaust, maybe disconnect the muffler for testing and then re-attach it.
This is a very interesting thread, with lots of good advice.

But you don't need to buy a scan gauge. You don't need to do a tranny swap. You don't need to punch a hole in your exhaust. Since your car doesn't have a tachometer, you only need to be able to hear when your engine RPM's change, from higher to lower pitch.

BTW, if you roll the window down and turn the radio off you might be able to actually hear the points at which your A/T shifts from the sound of your engine's RPM - if you are attentive and listening for it.

All you need to do to improve your FE is to is accelerate relatively briskly up to about 40-45 MPH (which means you will be in highest gear and/or TC lockup), at which point you will get your best fuel economy.

In city driving at lower speeds, as was recommended, when approaching a stop sign or a red light throw it into neutral and coast to a stop or a near stop, without braking unless absolutely necessary.

No special mods or equipment necessary. A knowing strategy is the first line of improving FE.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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A 4-speed wouldn't be a bad option to retrofit into, but only if you would still want to keep beating this same old beater after the 3-speed gets definitely shot. Would worth to keep an eye for a totaled one with the 4-speed and a decent engine...
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:25 AM   #18 (permalink)
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The OBDII Bluetooth adaptor seems like a very good idea, and there are so many apps for them on my Android based phone I don't even know where to begin. However, I've heard horror stories about ones that didn't work/we plastic boxes with no internals, but I'm considering getting one. Probably wait until payday and let you all know if it works or not. Heck, even if I buy two or three before I find one that works, It'll still be cheaper than even a used Scangauge II.
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Go to the cheapest parts store in town / pick a part yard, find the cheapest universal Tachometer they have, and install it. Watch the RPM for shift points. $20 and 10 minutes spent - problem solved.
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Old 11-04-2013, 12:10 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Update: I bought an OBDII Bluetooth adaptor. Should be here tomorrow, and hopefully it works. I've also gotten a pretty good idea where the shift points are by accelerating quickly (which seems obvious now, but I didn't do it before). Results:
1st-to-2nd: 15-25mph
2nd-to-3rd: 47-50mph
Which means that running at my typical 100km/h (about 62mph) rate means I'm probably doing pretty good on the RPM's and not lugging the engine.
Removed the passenger side mirror, finally. Bondo is drying right now. Will sand and paint this evening. Increased tire pressure to 26psi in all four tires, which certainly makes it easier to steer in parking lots with now power steering. I just got to 37mpg, I'm sure I can break 40 before I even do belly pans.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

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