Should I get an Outback?

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

I would only get a Subaru if I were considering to turn it into RWD-only and swap all its drivetrain for a non-stock one. It's not exactly the most reliable family hauler anyway.

[freebeard]

I can't find a picture of a Subaru straight-axle gasser, so here's a 1955 Nash:


https://www.hotrod.com/uploads/sites...-alt-2-lpr.jpg

[Isaac Zachary]

Originally Posted by redpoint5

I don't arrive at the "no" suggestion lightly because the car I am most fond of was my 1996 Legacy. Most of that fondness is probably that it was the first car I owned outright, and youth brings with it many memories. It did handle all of the constant abuse I threw at it though.

I don't like how weak Subarus are. I don't like that they don't get good fuel economy despite their weakness. I do appreciate that if you happen to get stuck in one, it's because you've done something fantastically foolish, and now you're really stuck.

They're no more seats in a Subaru than an Avalon. AWD is overrated, because all cars are all wheel corner and brake. How often is the limiting factor that acceleration is insufficient AND good winter tires are installed?

A Subaru is a lateral move, but not even that, because it gets worse fuel economy.

Right on! I completely agree! And hence:

Originally Posted by Isaac Zachary

I hope to use the Avalon for as long as possible. And hopefully by the time it dies used car prices go back to normal.

But what if the Avalon were totaled tomorrow (and I survive)?

[ME_Andy]

I believe a Cruze as well as a Honda Fit would meet all of your requirements. It's rare but there are hatchback Cruzes.

[Isaac Zachary]

Originally Posted by ME_Andy

I believe a Cruze as well as a Honda Fit would meet all of your requirements. It's rare but there are hatchback Cruzes.

That brings up another thing:

I was thinking about the Subaru because it has a towing rating and a spare tire. But what if I got a car that didn't have either and just bolted on a tow hitch and threw in a spare tire? (Or does have spare tire, but no tow?)

My Avalon doesn't have a tow rating for an example? But the Avalon is used, so there's no way towing will void a waranty. Maybe I could get in an accident and get blamed purely on the fact my car has something it's not designed for, but I highly doubt that would happen. But with a tow hitch on a new car, couldn't the dealer refuse to repair something under waranty stating the waranty is voided due to misuse of the car by towing? How high are the chances of that happening?

If it's not a big deal, then a Camry hybrid would also meet what I'm after. A Prius prime, (if they don't go up $5,000 to $10,000 as some are saying) would be perfect, except the spare tire taking up more lugage space and needing to have it tied down and I'd probably have to get a tow hitch that's way too low.

[Piotrsko]

Warranty lawsuits in other states have pointed out that the repair/device voiding a warranty has to be proved the modification itself caused the failure.

I can bolt on all sorts of goofy add ons, and as long as the tranny fluid isn't burnt in any way, they have to warranty repair it. Other than side stepping a clutch, cant see how you fry a diff. Computer should shut the engine down before it implodes except for my diesels burning lube oil

You're buying a car WITH a warranty?

[Isaac Zachary]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

You're buying a car WITH a warranty?

Hopefully I'm not buying any car.

But in a what-if scenario that I need a car, it all becomes a catch 22.

If I needed a car today, then used car prices seem still very high.

So if they are still very high, then I might as well as buy a new car.

But if I bought a new car, then I'll probably be on an extremely long waiting list if I want it at MSRP. I'd also be caught somewhere between my wants and what I can afford, which may be very slim pickings.

But if I did all that, I sure would hate doing something that ends up throwing all that money and effort away.

[Piotrsko]

Some of the stuff I see online suggest for certain styles of used car prices have returned to pre nosebleed levels. Here I see 30 year old pristine stuff that won't pass smog check going for $500. Good deal if you live in the next county over that doesn't have emission checks.

Gov't here stopped all the classic car exemptions in smog controlled counties.

[Isaac Zachary]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

Some of the stuff I see online suggest for certain styles of used car prices have returned to pre nosebleed levels. Here I see 30 year old pristine stuff that won't pass smog check going for $500. Good deal if you live in the next county over that doesn't have emission checks.

Gov't here stopped all the classic car exemptions in smog controlled counties.

Ya, it depends on the car.

Looking at 2017 and newer Prius Primes with 50,000 miles on them or less within 500 miles of here the cheapest I can find is $22,000, in another state. There's one for $23,000, then they are all $25,000 and up. A new Prime starts out at an MSRP of $28,000.

[Caddylackn]

I saw an article recently about the best car to buy with the lowest operating costs per mile long term. So, $ spent per mile driven. The cost of the car was included in the analysis.

It was a ten year old prius that was number one on the list to own. Assuming you paid $13k for a 10-year old Prius, it was the cheapest car to own if you look at in terms of $ paid per miles driven over a period of x years. I think the period was ten years. The ten year old prius has very low maintenance and fuel costs and that countered the $13k capital costs to put it to the top of the list.

Now, their study, I believe had a limit on how old the car could be.

In reality, a Geo Metro, or Saturn SL1 or SL2, or older Civic would win the $ per mile contest, but if you can't do the maintenance/repairs yourself and want safety, ABS, air bags, etc. they would not be practical.