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Old 06-04-2013, 08:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Update.

I got the passenger side done. I made it ~7" longer and I like it a lot better:


I also took this pic that shows the construction better (from the back side):


Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions

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Old 06-04-2013, 11:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Is the material water-proof, not just water-resistant? I'm thinking that it may need that protection plus gravel/sand protection; all of this from the tires. Some sort of fender flare at both wheelwells? Maybe a formed metal cap for a few inches and/or along lower cut edge.

The front end doesn't move too much in comparison to RR axle up & down. Might also consider an angle cut to accommodate this; RR to FF. I imagine you could use a load of gravel. Shovel it out until at RR axle rating.

BRISTLES, fellas, ain't no brissels out there . . but, then, I can't speak for FORD.

One or another of us is going to need to measure the air flow delta across the heat exchangers at some point with these aero changes (blocks, dams, pans, skirts, etc).

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ood-26028.html

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Last edited by slowmover; 06-04-2013 at 12:00 PM..
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
Is the material water-proof, not just water-resistant? I'm thinking that it may need that protection plus gravel/sand protection; all of this from the tires.
No, it's not. That's why I'm calling these "prototypes". The material I used will hold up for a year or so (based on what my belly pan has done).

The purpose of these was to get something in place so I can see ways to make a better, "final" version, or some more durable materials.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Had you not done the belly pan first, how well would it work to use your side skirts as the base for an undertray?
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:11 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Had you not done the belly pan first, how well would it work to use your side skirts as the base for an undertray?
My belly pan doesn't go back as far as where the side skirts start. I think that is a definite posibility.
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My version of energy storage is called "momentum".
My version of regenerative braking is called "bump starting".

1 Year Avg (Every Mile Traveled) = 47.8 mpg

BEST TANK: 2,009.6 mi on 35 gal (57.42 mpg): http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...5-a-26259.html


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Old 06-05-2013, 05:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I tried this.

I think you are being too aggressive for practical use. Your skirts look to be 3-4 inches above grade.

Mine were six inches above grade (on a similar vehicle) and they caught every bump in the road and eventually tore up even my indestructible ripstop conveyor belt material.

But they did have a positive effect on MPG.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:19 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
I tried this.

I think you are being too aggressive for practical use. Your skirts look to be 3-4 inches above grade.

Mine were six inches above grade (on a similar vehicle) and they caught every bump in the road and eventually tore up even my indestructible ripstop conveyor belt material.

But they did have a positive effect on MPG.
Mine are 5-6 inches right now (~1" farther in the rear than the front).

So far I haven't had any issues with them hitting the ground. That's part of the reason I made these prototypes, to try to decide how low I can go.

BTW, where did you get your conveyor belt material?
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My version of energy storage is called "momentum".
My version of regenerative braking is called "bump starting".

1 Year Avg (Every Mile Traveled) = 47.8 mpg

BEST TANK: 2,009.6 mi on 35 gal (57.42 mpg): http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...5-a-26259.html


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Old 06-06-2013, 11:34 AM   #18 (permalink)
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5-6" is close. Drive it over some railroad grade crossings and what is left will tell you what will work. My guess is that 8" is probably A-OK.

I got my 3/8" ripstop conveyor belt from an industrial supply house in Naptown.

It is not a bit cheap. An air dam and two side skirts set me back $100. You are doing this right in one respect. Run one made of cheaper stuff and use it as a pattern for the more durable material. The ripstop conveyor belt is darned near indestructible, but the flip side is that durability makes it a bear to fabricate.

Take your "pattern" and pay the shop rate to get a good professional product that will last for years. Save yourself the agony of sawing/drilling this stuff. Ask me how I know it is hard to work.

Another piece of advice from having done this: clamp the front and rear edges firmly. Your skirt will try to vibrate like an oboe/bassoon double reed. If not clamped firmly even ripstop will wear through .
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
5-6" is close. Drive it over some railroad grade crossings and what is left will tell you what will work. My guess is that 8" is probably A-OK.
I have one RR crossing on my commute, but it's very level & smooth. There's another one not far from my house that's awful that I go over once & a great while. I should go see how they do on that crossing.

Quote:
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Another piece of advice from having done this: clamp the front and rear edges firmly. Your skirt will try to vibrate like an oboe/bassoon double reed. If not clamped firmly even ripstop will wear through .
That's why I constructed them the way I did. As you can see from the pic in post #11, I made a "spline" of 3/4" thick wood that's drilled & bolted on. The sheeting is sandwiched between the spline and the sheet metal.

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Diesel Dave

My version of energy storage is called "momentum".
My version of regenerative braking is called "bump starting".

1 Year Avg (Every Mile Traveled) = 47.8 mpg

BEST TANK: 2,009.6 mi on 35 gal (57.42 mpg): http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...5-a-26259.html


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