03-21-2012, 10:00 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Administrator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder
Maybe.
I'm getting very near my best ever MPG with winter tyres on !
I recall Vekke claiming some Nokian winter tyre having the best RR of just about all tyres.
We'll see what the summer tyres will return in terms of MPG.
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While that may be true, that is not the case for most winter tires. Every winter set I've run I've seen a noticable boost in MPG when switching from my LRR winter tires to my LRR summer tires.
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Today
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03-21-2012, 01:02 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
While that may be true, that is not the case for most winter tires. Every winter set I've run I've seen a noticable boost in MPG when switching from my LRR winter tires to my LRR summer tires.
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The calculated difference is a mere 0.03 L/100 km for me
That's merely a 33 CC can of pop every 62 miles
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Strayed to the Dark Diesel Side
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03-21-2012, 01:52 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RunningStrong
Do any of the more hardcore modders run a different winter engine oil?
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Seems like a false economy, unless you do an awful lot of driving. I probably drive the Insight about 8K miles/year these days, and the recommended oil change interval is 7500. Besides, 2.5 quarts of 0W20 synthetic at about $6/qt, plus the filter runs to about $20, or 5 gallons of gas these days.
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03-21-2012, 01:55 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Hypermiler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
I got another one. Get out the ol window sun shades.
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This. Absolutely.
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11-mile commute: 100 mpg - - - Tank: 90.2 mpg / 1191 miles
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03-21-2012, 02:00 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf
Seems like a false economy, unless you do an awful lot of driving. I probably drive the Insight about 8K miles/year these days, and the recommended oil change interval is 7500. Besides, 2.5 quarts of 0W20 synthetic at about $6/qt, plus the filter runs to about $20, or 5 gallons of gas these days.
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15,000 miles a year isn't exactly high mileage so I imagine many people would be in the position to justify a bi-annual oil change.
It was a speculative question anyway.
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03-22-2012, 02:24 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Banned
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Verify optimal air conditioner operation. And engine coolant system. Install heater core bypass if not so equipped. We use sunshades year round here.
Summer means high humidity/high heat, and, unlike AZ no cooling in the evening and unlike FL no occasional rain to help the discomfort. A humid desert according to USDA, so the worst of both without the amelioration of either.
Parking in shade, or, short of that, parking with the rear of the car facing the afternoon sun.
As with winter up north one plans outdoor activities to coincide with best daily conditions. Errands, thus, in the earliest morning or late evening. Where work says 8-5 on the site, optimal HVAC operation means less time in cooling to a lower humidity and cooler temp.
The tricks to keep the interior from overheating are worth the trouble, especially as old folks, children and pets are susceptible to heat prostration. So a plan (where & when) is always best and easily met by optimal routing.
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03-22-2012, 03:41 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Hypermiler
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I concur. Whatever you can do to reduce heat load, do it. It'll make for less AC load, saving gas. Or for some of us, it makes for a more tolerable no-AC experience.
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11-mile commute: 100 mpg - - - Tank: 90.2 mpg / 1191 miles
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03-22-2012, 04:53 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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I'd suggest checking that your wheels are turning freely... One of my rear wheels brakes were binding from corrosion caused by winter road salt - I was still getting good mileage, but it seems it could have been even better!!
I took both calipers off, cleaned up and lubricated (with copper grease) the rubbing surfaces and wheels are turning much more smoothly!
It's easy to check - all for the 'cost' of just jacking up each wheel in turn - or getting your local tyre dealer to put your car up in the air for a couple of minutes.
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Last edited by kingsway; 03-23-2012 at 11:55 AM..
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03-23-2012, 11:40 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Administrator
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Interesting suggestion. I know I've had the same problem.
Anyone else?
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03-25-2012, 03:16 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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aero guerrilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian
I concur. Whatever you can do to reduce heat load, do it. It'll make for less AC load, saving gas. Or for some of us, it makes for a more tolerable no-AC experience.
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I re-locate my alu-foil covered cardboard from the engine bay (winter) to the sunroof (summer).
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsway
I'd suggest checking that your wheels are turning freely... One of my rear wheels brakes were binding from corrosion caused by winter road salt - I was still getting good mileage, but it seems it could have been even better!!
I took both calipers off, cleaned up and lubricated (with copper grease) the rubbing surfaces and wheels are turning much more smoothly!
It's easy to check - all for the 'cost' of just jacking up each wheel in turn - or getting your local tyre dealer to put your car up in the air for a couple of minutes.
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I've made a ritual of cleaning up the brakes when changing winter wheels for summer wheels. It really works wonders!
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e·co·mod·ding: the art of turning vehicles into what they should be
What matters is where you're going, not how fast.
"... we humans tend to screw up everything that's good enough as it is...or everything that we're attracted to, we love to go and defile it." - Chris Cornell
[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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