TDI Cooling System Upgrades

[bwilson4web]

Certainly a 220/240 VAC circuit would match the heater. Don't forget to check the timer voltage rating. Wouldn't want the 'smoke' to escape. <grins>

Bob Wilson

[ConnClark]

Deezler,

This cooling system upgrade should help. TyrolSport UG SMIC Intercooler For VW MK4 Golf/GTI/Jetta TDI

It isn't cheap but it should boost your economy and performance. You will get less pressure drop across it and therefore more energy recovery from the turbo. You will have cooler intake air and less heat loss to the block. You will also drop your NOx emissions. Its a win win win upgrade

[Deezler]

Conn, don't tempt me.

I want an upgraded SMIC and piping badly. Unfortunately they really wont add a significant amount of either power or economy to my car. Benefits? yes, but not too cost effective.

I think theres a Eurojet model for closer to 500 bucks, too.

[ConnClark]

5 to 10 more hp without adjusting the computer for more fuel (tempt)
http://www.tyrolsport.com/product_in...ynotesting.pdf (tempt)

cooler engine temps on the road (tempt)
http://www.tyrolsport.com/product_in...estingsmic.pdf (tempt)



EDIT: Yes, I know I can be a total scoundrel at times

[tasdrouille]

Originally Posted by ConnClark

5 to 10 more hp without adjusting the computer for more fuel (tempt)
http://www.tyrolsport.com/product_in...ynotesting.pdf (tempt)

cooler engine temps on the road (tempt)
http://www.tyrolsport.com/product_in...estingsmic.pdf (tempt)



EDIT: Yes, I know I can be a total scoundrel at times

5-10 more hp on a tuned 250 hp 1.8t, a motor for which the stock smic was probably a restriction on.

The stock smic on the TDI is the same as the 1.8t, but the engine only makes 90 hp, so we're probably looking at 2-4 hp maximum for the TDI.

The IAT difference will only happen at wot, not everyday driving.

[ConnClark]

The stock SMIC is a restriction on a stock 1.8t engine. It has as much as 3 psi drop across it. That is way to big of a drop even if it is floored.

The reduction in intake temps will occur any time your on boost.

An increase 2 to 4 hp on a 90hp engine with the same maximum fueling is still better than a 2 to 4% improvement.

[Deezler]

AHhh you're killing me. shut up already. :/

My TDI is not stock. I have larger injector nozzles, re-mapped EDU, and muffler delete now, and a turbo intake pipe ready to go on soon. But honestly I'll probably never buy a larger inter-cooler for this car. It's just not worth it. Unless I find a good deal on a used one.

I am, however, generally of the opinion that all pipe work on a turbocharged car is worthy of an upgrade... intake to turbo, intercooler & piping, full exhaust. I did this on my last car (turbo eclipse) and it RIPPED, and I got well over EPA #s while driving like a maniac. As in est. 260 WHP in a 2700 lb hatchback. Can't believe I never killed myself, actually... On this car I sent out my stock intercooler and had larger inlet/outlet pipes welded on in place of the originals; supposedly reduced 1.5 psi pressure drop or so. Anything that can make the turbo breathe easier will decrease pumping losses, = more power under every condition except no load. But I think what Tas was referring to is the fact that at cruising load (nearly all my driving), the engine doesn't flow enough air or make enough power for an intercooler replacement to even be noticeable. There isn't much pressure drop when your flow rate is low. It would still benefit someone racing around all the time (due to reduced heatsoak), but my IAT's are already low.

Anyway, I'll probably order these for my tdi eventually: Upgraded Intercooler Pipes (A4-ALH) [icpipeseta4] - TDI Parts - TDIParts.com

A little more affordable, and plus the stock pipes are like drinking straws.

[tasdrouille]

Originally Posted by ConnClark

The stock SMIC is a restriction on a stock 1.8t engine. It has as much as 3 psi drop across it. That is way to big of a drop even if it is floored.

I agree with the 3 psi figure as I measure it myself on my car. But as you said it, only when floored. How much of your driving time do you go flooring it?

The reduction in intake temps will occur any time your on boost.

That I completely disagree. I was not able to find a difference in IAT under highway steady state driving, when boosting between 2-4 psi, wether I had a stock setup or completely blocked cross flow to the IC. So I doubt an after market IC would do much better.

An increase 2 to 4 hp on a 90hp engine with the same maximum fueling is still better than a 2 to 4% improvement.

I agree, but don't count on any improvement other then when you have the pedal to the metal, be it in regards to power of FE.

[tasdrouille]

Originally Posted by Deezler

My TDI is not stock. I have larger injector nozzles, re-mapped EDU

Which tune? Has you EGR been deleted? BTW do you have vag-com?

and muffler delete now

That I need to do.

and a turbo intake pipe ready to go on soon.

You bought an OMI?!? Please let us (well, ok let me know) how it performs FE wise.

[Deezler]

Hi Tas,

I went with what I thought was Alligator tuning but turned out just to be Kerma's own work (I think). Anyway, yeah, kerma Q-loader. I first got a tune for the otherwise stock engine and then got a 2nd file once I put in the Bosio PP520 nozzles. It's really convenient, 5 mins in the garage and its remapped, for free. Kerma's tunes have been awesome, too, very smooth. Especially noteworthy since they are "clutch saver tunes" since I'm too cheap to get a new clutch already. From an ecological standpoint, I shouldn't wear out an otherwise good clutch, but the power overwhelms the stock one so quickly. (I guess I do have about 50% more power already than I did stock, though)

I do not have an EGR delete; I want to keep it for NOx control and faster warm ups. I asked Kerma to reduce the rate for me though, not sure if he did or not. Though I could block it now without a check engine light.

And NO, I don't have a vag-com or vdcs, it's a major problem. I do have a scan gauge to clear codes but not being able to adjust the engine operation is frustrating. For instance, my tune with nozzles was great originally but now that they've worn in I get a light haze of smoke at WOT. I don't like projecting the image of smokey diesels... but when I get back on pure biodiesel in May it should subside a bit. But I'll probably get it adjusted before then, when I have my local TDI guru do my timing belt, clutch and... 5th gear swap! sometime this spring.

The muffler delete is mandatory, sounds way cooler (not louder) and flows freely.

The OMI is a pipe from a TDI PD150 from across the pond. There are occasionally very good deals on tdiclub classifieds for them. I'll document the install for the forum here, but I'm hopeful for a good flow increase. Previous OMI purchasers have all reported crisper power and lower smoke.

Back to the original topic, my zerostart coolant heater, running somewhere around 170 watts, still does a nice job. Sure the coolant only gets up to 85 degrees, but that is mighty pleasant versus a 35 or 40 degree startup. The thermostat is steady at 206 degrees, and the engine seems to like it just fine. Unfortunately, scan gauge readings are actually down a mpg or two (though they are way out of calibration ever since the second ECU tuning, reading 58 mpg for a real world 49). But it has also been very windy the last couple days, cross wind style. doh! It will take more time to know.