03-23-2011, 05:49 PM
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#61 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern California
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I bow to your superior knowledge. End of story.
Ray Mac
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03-23-2011, 06:24 PM
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#62 (permalink)
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Barges Ahoy!
Join Date: May 2009
Location: canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcrews
If you are going to go alot of hyway driving, go one size up on the tire (NOT THE RIM)
FOR EXAMPLE 245/45/18 would be 255/45/18 or an increase in the diameter of 3.4%. Or about 1/2 inch taller.
And If you really have read the tire threads, you would see that a taller tire (up to a limit) is actually HIGHLY recommended.
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I will be in the boat for new tires, the vic currently has I believe 215/60/15(don't quote me) on right now. So the suggestion would be to go to a 215/65/15 or possibly a 215/70/15? would changing the width to a 205 or a 195 make a difference?
As a side note, would lowering the car offset the height difference?(edit:duh, what i meant to ask was; would the combination of lowering the car an inch in combination with increasing the tire diameter prove favorable mpg wise?) the car has plenty ground clearance and could afford to hug the road a little more.
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03-23-2011, 06:27 PM
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#63 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 544
RaceJeep - '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 5.9 Limited 90 day: 13.62 mpg (US)
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Yes, lowering it would offset the height increase from the tires.
Without lowering it, whether or not taller tires will help mpg or not depends on gearing. In an over-geared vehicle like my Jeep, the drop in rpm more than offsets the aero penalty. However, in others, which are already geared pretty tall, it may not help, or may even hurt.
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Call me crazy, but I actually try for mpg with this Jeep:
Typical driving: Back in Rochester for school, driving is 60 - 70% city
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03-23-2011, 06:40 PM
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#64 (permalink)
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Barges Ahoy!
Join Date: May 2009
Location: canada
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Im waiting for the rest of the snow to melt so i can get the car out of the snowbank in the driveway. I have no visual at ATM of the rear end. The car already gets pretty good gas mileage, so my guess is 3.07(?) maybe already a 2.73(?).
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03-23-2011, 06:49 PM
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#65 (permalink)
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500 Mile Metro Traveler
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sun City, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mystere485
I will be in the boat for new tires, the vic currently has I believe 215/60/15(don't quote me) on right now. So the suggestion would be to go to a 215/65/15 or possibly a 215/70/15? would changing the width to a 205 or a 195 make a difference?
As a side note, would lowering the car offset the height difference?(edit:duh, what i meant to ask was; would the combination of lowering the car an inch in combination with increasing the tire diameter prove favorable mpg wise?) the car has plenty ground clearance and could afford to hug the road a little more.
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Before you start with the tire change, do you know what your rear axle ratio is? If not, look on the VIN ID sticker on the door jamb. In the lower right, you should see the letters "AX" and a code under it. What is the code? I can decipher for ya.
Here's what I'd do if I was doing a eco-modding aCrown Vic.
1. Remove spare and jack, replace with tire sealer and AAA card.
2. Run a set of lightweight Town Car aluminum spare wheels (16x4.5") and add a set of 205/65-16 Kumho KR22 LRR tires to fit . Add moon disc caps to the wheels.
3. Low restriction air filter in the stock intake.
4. Grille Block and lower Air Dam
5. Lowering springs
6. Scan Gauge
7. engine underdrive pulley set
8. vacuum dependent cruise control (i'll let u know if this is going to work on my mustang)
Last edited by zonker; 03-23-2011 at 06:58 PM..
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03-23-2011, 08:04 PM
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#66 (permalink)
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EtOH
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: North Coast, California
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Stay away from the Dodge/Chrysler vans from those years. We have friend who owned a '95 Caravan and it was rusted, paint falling off, and transmission problems. My dad once stayed with it on the side of the road while the friend went to get fuel and he had 2-3 other people stop and say they had a van just like that, complete with a dent in the door .
The Ford Windstar would be a better choice or the GM vans from that era if you're looking to stick with domestics. Reliability is a problem for most of the Mini-vans but the Dodge/Chrysler variants were the worst IMHO.
And when you say NorCal do you mean North as in Sacramento? Or North of Sacramento like Eureka or Redding?
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-Allch Chcar
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03-23-2011, 08:56 PM
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#67 (permalink)
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Driving the TurboWeasel
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Steuben County, NY
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The two early-00's Chevy Ventures in my family still get along just fine. Yeah they're not pleasant for long trips due to the interiors having been shot for a long time, but mechanically they're doing all right at 150k miles and 220k miles. The 220k mile one is actively being ignored (cheap parental unit) except gas/oil changes and yet still hasn't kicked the bucket.
Most of the larger GM's my family has owned have all gone way up in years/mileage before kicking the bucket. My '89 Olds made it 15 years and 150k miles of very indifferent maintenance before succumbing to rust. The previous 1980 Pontiac made it to age 16 before being replaced by the 89. We've had good luck (so far) with large GM cars making it to ripe old age in my family.
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2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT
Last edited by 99LeCouch; 03-23-2011 at 09:01 PM..
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03-23-2011, 09:01 PM
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#68 (permalink)
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Barges Ahoy!
Join Date: May 2009
Location: canada
Posts: 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allch Chcar
Stay away from the Dodge/Chrysler vans from those years. We have friend who owned a '95 Caravan and it was rusted, paint falling off, and transmission problems.
The Ford Windstar would be a better choice or the GM vans from that era if you're looking to stick with domestics. Reliability is a problem for most of the Mini-vans but the Dodge/Chrysler variants were the worst IMHO.
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lol, chrysler minivans with transmissions that go at 100k kms or sliding doors that wont completely unlock or not completely close.... we had two like that, a 91 and a 95.
99 Chev venture had rust issues 2nd yr along the door seams on all the doors, worse on sliding ones. Otherwise quite reliable. Mom rear ended someone with it, busted up the bumper and grille, only cosmetic damage but she still managed to crack the radiator(?). Traded in for a 2005 venture(uplander).
2005 uplander, my youngest sister fell in between the door and the body straddling the door arm, the automatic doors tried closing but with her in the way they opened back up, but they couldnt fully open so they tried closing...this cycle happened about 3 times by the time my mom heard her screaming in the garage... transmission went at 7k kms, replaced under warranty. front discs and pads were replaced under warranty @ 14k kms. She had it for 8 months and traded it for a used yukon.
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03-23-2011, 09:49 PM
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#69 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Northern California
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All Chcar, if you meant me, I'm between Sacramento and San Francisco.
Ray Mac.
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03-24-2011, 02:39 AM
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#70 (permalink)
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Barges Ahoy!
Join Date: May 2009
Location: canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zonker
If not, look on the VIN ID sticker on the door jamb. In the lower right, you should see the letters "AX" and a code under it. What is the code? I can decipher for ya.
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The door jam says its a y, and the car for sure is a 1994.
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