Tips needed for eco-driving my diesel truck!

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Dave's Civic Duty

Slowmover, I like your CTD Ideology. Your truck is fortunte to have you as it's owner. It should last a very long time & you live in Texas? Two life times at least.

Do you use a by-pass oil filter of any kind? I picked up a used one on ebay for a good price. Are you on the Mopar Man 1973 site? One of my favorites, he's on all the Dodge Cummins pages checkin' things out too.

Doin' fine w/ a 5.9,
Dave

I was lucky to find an unmolested truck (no gooseneck hitch or evidence of tuners) owned by a man with a service company. He'd averaged 47 mph over 120k in 2.5 years when I bought it . . figured he only stopped for cigarets and diesel with an hourly average that high.

The CTD needs no add-ons for the oil system. The triple nickel engine is VERY easy on oil (per analysis) so I stick with very low restriction filters on the engine and try to change twice yearly depending on mileage. Were I inclined to get fancy it would receive a Mann-Hummel centrifuge and a stainless steel full-flow oil filter. The coolant system could probably use a filter, and the fuel system could well benefit from an aftermarket lift pump and filter system.

I've gone thru Mopar Man's site several times. I was able to copy a chart about mpg versus pyrometer temps from there.

As to the trucks luck, we'll keep our fingers crossed; thanks! I let it tell me what it wants and respond accordingly. If there is one thing I learned well as a truck driver -- and that is applicable to other vehicles -- it is that the driver works for the vehicle, not the other way 'round.

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[IsaacCarlson]

I read a while back that you can put a lockup switch in the dodge, but it will stack shift into 4th. I did not read it all, because I don't have one. I like my manual tranny. Maybe just get a manual tranny??????

[Dave's Civic Duty]

the driver works for the vehicle, not the other way 'round.

I like that one, sort of like a good marriage.

I have a Franz by-pass filter that really helps to keep the oil clean & the cost of oil changes down. I just change the TP & add a quart. I have
10K on this oil & its just started to get dark. On my other diesels as soon as I change it & start it up it's dark. Mopar Man swears by this setup, so that's good enough for me.

I just changed my rad, rotted out, Ohio truck, poor thing, so I should be good for the coolant. Mine is not a daily driver, I use it for my farm, getting hay, grain, pulling my trailers. It stays in the garage most of the time. I have 188K on it & it's been throwing the code for my IP since I got it over 2 1/2 years ago w/ 164K. So I just keep putting Power Service in it to make sure it stay lubricated. It starts great, but I'm living w/ dead pedal in overdrive lockup under 55MPH. I do plan on running my own BioD too. Think I may need a gearator pump like an Air Dog Raptor first.

I just bought a FP gauge & a trans temp gauge and an a-pillar dual pod that I hope to get in soon. It also had a low pressure warning light when I bought it so I've been always keeping a eye on it.

CTD's RAWK,
Dave

250K on one set of tires? What kind? In this months Diesel Power there is an article on installing a VGT from a 071/2 6.7 into a 5.9. No more turbo lag & exhaust brake. Someday! Although I wouldn't think a common rail would have much if any lag, esp. a 6sp!

[slowmover]

250K on one set of tires?

Second set of replacement tires: original, first replacement, and second replacement: 0-miles, 120k miles, and, maybe, 250k miles.

Time will probably run out on me before miles (MICHELIN sez five years on tires is the end).

Acceleration on one of these is very impressive, if:

you're as old as me and remember work trucks of the 60's and 70's AND
especially when one considers the fuel mileage possible.

A 383 or 440-Dodge 250 with 3.55 gears could really move out and tow a nice trailer. But it was doing so at 7-8 mpg, where this truck does the same work at 15-plus.

The rule of thumb in towing is that 0-60 in twenty seconds is plenty. 22 is okay, 26 is hurting. 18 is pointless if it comes at the expense of fuel economy.

Same is true for mountain climbing. The sheeple get skeered if they slow down to 45 mph up the hill. Down the other side of the hill is all that matters. So they'll add tuners and other junk shortening the life of the rig first.

No free lunch in power tuning.

But there's no end to power in a CTD. Check this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cV0XJePUitI

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[Dave's Civic Duty]

My first Dodge p/u was a slant 6 225 three speed that had the column shift moved to the floor. Great lil durable truck. So I do remember all too well the trucks of the 60's & 70's. 383's & 440's in the Mopars cars of the day too!

I would not trade my CTD for anything. I had an 89 Dakota w/ a 4cyl 5sp that may have attained a little better MPG's but my 3500 is a beast in every other comparison.

Are you a member of the Cummins High Mileage Club? For $4.95 you get a grill badge for every 100,000 miles. I'm going to sign up. Need to send an exterior pic, a odo pic & fill out the application. I'm just passing on some fun info, I'm not doing this for profit!

Keep on CTDing,
Dave

[Dave's Civic Duty]

[QUOTE=slowmover;199002]250K on one set of tires?

Second set of replacement tires: original, first replacement, and second replacement: 0-miles, 120k miles, and, maybe, 250k miles.

Time will probably run out on me before miles (MICHELIN sez five years on tires is the end).

I blew out one of my Firestone tires & the spare was a Michelin, I was debating what tires to put on it when the time comes. A friend of mine put the Firestones on his 2500 GMC van the tire guy sells all kind of tires he said that you could spend more money for a tire but you wouldn't find a better tire then the Firestone.

I do know that we put Michelin on my wifes suv & they probably kept her out of two sudden stop accidents.

Any input here guys? Thanks, Dave

[slowmover]

Are you a member of the Cummins High Mileage Club? For $4.95 you get a grill badge for every 100,000 miles. I'm going to sign up. Need to send an exterior pic, a odo pic & fill out the application. I'm just passing on some fun info, I'm not doing this for profit!

Yes, I've seen that on DTR and on the CUMMIN's site. I'll wait another year when the truck hits 200k.

I blew out one of my Firestone tires & the spare was a Michelin, I was debating what tires to put on it when the time comes. A friend of mine put the Firestones on his 2500 GMC van the tire guy sells all kind of tires he said that you could spend more money for a tire but you wouldn't find a better tire then the Firestone.


Depends on the contemplated use, miles expected and over what time period. I've yet -- anywhere -- to come across any real competition to MICHELIN for light duty truck class tires. The cost is higher, granted, but life expectancy, ease in balancing, etc, all make up for it. They're bulletproof, IMO. There are no cheap tires anymore. Not that others may not be okay, but it isn't the same thing. The LTX M/S line is now expanded to Load Range E. I'd make that range of tires the default to compare others to (see results of customer surveys on Tire Rack). Really, it's an analysis of your own use. A lot of "business miles" around an agricultural environment (stock tending) is a good deal different than loads of highway miles, and the "cost" of losing an animal or being able to get feed to a group of animals in a snowstorm makes some considerations moot. But with tires and brakes you tend to get what you pay for.

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[Dave's Civic Duty]

I know that one Michelin tire is wearing like iron. That is my impression as well. Michelin makes great tires, & I totally agree, ya git what ya pay for!

I think I'm going to send in my $4.95 to get my first high mileage 100,000 badge after I fix a rust spot on my LF fender rusting through. Time to fire up the mig & patch w/ some 16 gauge. Rest of the truck is fine!

Thanks,
Dave

[Dave's Civic Duty]

Did get my patches in, I put in three. I used an SP-100 Lincoln. So easy, migs are great very very minimal warpage & the material was end welded so I won't have to build up the fiberglass filler like on an overlap patch. Plus,
all of the patch with get undercoated on the inside. Should last a long time, I think I went far enough past the cancer on the cut outs.

I really don't know why they rust here because Dodge did a great job of designing the inner fenders. Also there are places, if you open the hood, to hose out any accumulated dirt, mud, salt, from the front & top rear. I'm going to keep mine oiled up once I get it all done too.

Not very good for the fuel milage w/ holes in the body I would think! Keepin' my CTD clean.

Dave

[Angelus359]

I'd recommend partial grill block (check temperatures with that), wheel well covers, flat smooth hubcaps (pizza pans)... if practical put a 12 degree downangled cover going down the back of the truck...