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Old 10-18-2014, 10:59 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasoline Fumes View Post
That's about what my Wagon does with the HF gearbox and 185/65-14 tires. 2.954 final drive and a 0.694 5th gear. It's awesome on the highway!
My main concern was the 1360 at 45 mph which is my daily commute speed. I do have some hills to climb and I'm not sure how that would work out.

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Old 10-18-2014, 11:00 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cosmick View Post
Can you combine the 3.545:1 first with the 0.725:1 top? That's where I'd go next.
Hopefully the taller 1st gear isn't a problem. I don't want to play mix and match too much if I don't have to. I'll already be combining 3 different transmissions as is.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:02 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
They're not rare, but they aren't junkyard parts you'll be able to find for cheap. Monkeywrenchracing carries the European C6x with 3.9 final drive and 0.725 6th, which brings cruising rpm down to ~2400rpm at 60mph, and they run 1600 for a used one. There's a guy who imports them from the UK for 1200 or so on Spyderchat (but you'll have to convert the shift linkage back to the usual FWD one).
Yeah, I checked car-part.com and the cheapest one in the US is about $400. Too rich for my blood when you can get a C5x for around $100. It would be pretty nice though.



Quote:
If I were to replace my C56 right now it would be with a 4.5 FD C60 maybe with a slightly taller tire, or maybe not. I have to cope with hilly city driving so short 1st gear is really useful. For a highway cruiser, 3.9 FD + oversized tire is the way to go.

I have no idea if the 3.7 would go into the 5 speed gearboxes but if you have the ability to open them up and do it that would be worth a shot. I have never heard of a 3.7 C56, I thought they only come in 3.9 and 4.3 flavors. The 4.5 and those 2 are interchangeable.
I'm pretty sure all the C5x transmission cases are the same, so you can swap any final drive from one to another. I'm just not 100% sure the auto differential gearing can be swapped, although I am assuming so. I'll be confirming that soon.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:04 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by H-Man View Post
Toyota compacts don't get enough love on this site, I can pick up a corolla cheaper than a civic and it is unlikely that the car has been owned by a ricer.
There are a bunch on the site, but they don't post a ton or mod a ton (compared to the Civic guys). I'm not sure why. There have been a few modified Corollas and Matrix around, and my 1997 Paseo was fairly modified. I'd love to see more guys modding them though. They are a great platform.
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Old 10-18-2014, 04:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
There are a bunch on the site, but they don't post a ton or mod a ton (compared to the Civic guys). I'm not sure why. There have been a few modified Corollas and Matrix around, and my 1997 Paseo was fairly modified. I'd love to see more guys modding them though. They are a great platform.
It might be a self reinforcing trend. People see the aerocivic and company, the insights, and the saturn S series cars and overlook the toyotas because the lack of information on taller gearing, thus we see fewer people trying to mod them because they just buy something else if they plan on modding.

I think the corollas/novas from the mid 80's had a good choice of gearing: 1986 Chevrolet Nova Sedan (since mid-year 1985 for North America U.S.) specs review

Mated to my 195/70/R14s, that transaxle would put me at 2200 RPM @ 60 MPH, on stock tires I'd do 2400 RPM, the A240L the euro models offered would do 2200 RPM on stock tires. From experience with my dad's corolla, 2200 RPM@60 is about the limit of the 4A-F without having the car becoming excessively sluggish.
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:39 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
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My main concern was the 1360 at 45 mph which is my daily commute speed. I do have some hills to climb and I'm not sure how that would work out.
45 MPH is about the minimum speed for me in 5th gear. Hills require a downshift. Or two.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:48 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
My main concern was the 1360 at 45 mph which is my daily commute speed. I do have some hills to climb and I'm not sure how that would work out.
1360 sounds really really low. That's my rpm at 24mph in 5th or so, and the car struggles with slight inclines at that speed. That's a 1ZZ-FE hauling 2300lbs. If I floor it, it'll make unhealthy groaning noises and after 5 seconds the speed will have barely increased at all. Pre-2000 engines seem to like being over 1500rpm.

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Yeah, I checked car-part.com and the cheapest one in the US is about $400. Too rich for my blood when you can get a C5x for around $100. It would be pretty nice though.
400?? The cheapest one I see on carpart is 850! I've seen them go in classifieds for a bit over 1k. Low mileage ones will easily fetch 1.2k. C56s on the other hand are basically scrap metal, people start their asking prices at 500 and don't have many buyers. Good news if you're trying to upgrade from a 4 speed though!
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:42 PM   #28 (permalink)
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The differential ratio of the A244 is 2.821, quite low compared to what I've seen in almost any Toyota transmission. I might have to downshift for bigger hills, we'll see.

I have a torque wrench. I'm not sure why you'd need some crazy expensive torque wrench to torque down the diff gear bolts or bellhousing bolts. Those are the only bolts that I need to change. I don't think they're anything special. What bolts are you talking about?
The bearing preload is the picky one.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:08 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Do you have a link to the procedure you're supposed to use?
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:17 PM   #30 (permalink)
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http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/6g/t...05%20speed.pdf
The C52 gearbox rebuild
http://discodan.org/gfx/celica/servi.../chassis/a.pdf
Found those searching for 'C52 bearing preload'

My ae92 FSM outlines a similar procedure I think. For torquing, you need an in*lb torque wrench or maybe a spring scale and a wrench with a hole drilled in the handle an inch away from the center of the box end.

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