Ultragauge

[BHarvey]

Got mine yesterday. Still coming up with how I want to set it up.
Coolant temp is very steady in the 185F range.
Air intake temp ranges from 90f (still) down to about 15 over ambient (moving).

The open/closed loop is pretty neat. Car stays in closed loop for any driving I do, unless I give it the berries!

Has 50 possible gauges on my car.

[BamZipPow]

Nice...

Mine in green (cause it was the only color around)...

[redneck]

Put " % Engine Load " on your first screen also.

Try to hold the lowest % of engine load for the speed your traveling for best fuel economy.

This guage is very,,, very,,, sensitive to throttle input.
(in other words it will drive you nuts)

>

[BHarvey]

I tried the % engine load and at idle it shows about 30%.
The manifold pressure gauge read 3.7-4 at idle
GPH reads .27 at idle with no electrics on, .37 - .4 with lights, radio and heater blowing.
Seems to work real well. I like the "smart" setting for fuel level.

Thought about setting an alarm for a gph reading of 2.0 or higher.
On cruise at 55mph it takes a steep hill for it to see 2.0 gph
At 60 mph, it see's 2.0+ quite a bit.

I can see how one of these will show you how to be more efficient.

[Sigurd]

That instant gph gauges is one of the best, in my opinion. That one was what really allowed me to modify my foot style and see some gains.

[gone-ot]

...has anyone been able to read manifold air pressure (MAP: both vacuum & pressure) on a turbo equipped vehicle with their UG?

[darcane]

I've got Inst. MPG, Ave MPG, %Engine Load, Abs TPS, Inst. GPH and MPH on my first screen.

I like ABS TPS to keep keep close tabs on exactly how much lead is in my foot. Makes it easier to keep constant throttle on uphills.

MPH is for two reasons: 1) tires are oversized, so I can show the corrected MPH. 2) Truck's speedo is all wonky and I'm past the mileage cutoff for it to be covered under warranty.

[vskid3]

Originally Posted by darcane

I like ABS TPS to keep keep close tabs on exactly how much lead is in my foot. Makes it easier to keep constant throttle on uphills.

I do the same when I'm going a steady speed. I have found the sweet spot for my car, if I hold 18.8 I go 55MPH on the slight uphills, 60 on the flats, and 65 downhill, all while getting over 40MPG.

[SentraSE-R]

Here's how I set my first screen up.

impg and trip average mpg are self-explanatory. I monitor % engine load on my manual xB so I pulse at the best BSFC (about 85% load). I monitor it on my wife's automatic Elantra to keep the torque converter from slipping. It'll stay locked in top gear on hills as long as I keep the load under 70.

I monitor battery voltage in the Winter to keep the battery above 11.6V. Driving with lights & fan drain the battery down. If it drops below 11.6V, I keep the engine running to be sure I don't deplete the battery and lose the ability to restart the car.

My other primary screen displays are timing advance and trip distance. Once my trip mileage gets up around 60-75 miles, I like to reset it so the UG's trip average is more responsive to my driving. Timing advance relates well to impg. The higher the timing advance, the higher my impg.

Next up is my second UG display screen.

This screen summarizes my tank average mpg, distance traveled, and distance to empty. I also monitor intantaneous gph, and engine and intake temperatures.

[bluejoey]

Originally Posted by vskid3

I do the same when I'm going a steady speed. I have found the sweet spot for my car, if I hold 18.8 I go 55MPH on the slight uphills, 60 on the flats, and 65 downhill, all while getting over 40MPG.

I use a similar technique, except I follow engine load instead of TPS. For my '95 Tercel on a recent highway trip, I found that at highway speeds, ~ 40% corresponded to 60 mpg, 50% to 50 mpg, and 60% to 40 mpg between about 55 and 65 mph. I'm still tweaking it to find the best balance between speed, load, and mpg. Too little load and the car loses speed; too much load and the car loses mpg.