VX engine build ideas?

[IMI4tth3w]

slightly old post, but i'm also in the middle of freshening up my d15z1. the parts list is a bit massive but i'm hoping to have this thing factory fresh once i'm done.

i will definitely be replacing the main and rod bearings (the rod bearings are probably the only ones that really could be replaced but might as well do both)

right now i'm debating on how to do the whole piston ring replacement. i've been told npr piston rings are good stuff. but also curious if i should do a rehone on the cylinder walls? the motor was in perfect running order when pulled just 200k miles of regular wear and tear.

so the main question is, SHOULD i hone the cylinders if they look okay? or should honing be done every time the piston rings are replaced?

here's a link to my build thread on honda-tech
honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3041989&p=49928990

[02ws6]

Carry the block to a machine shop where they can check each bore. I'm certain a fresh crosshatch will be necessary. Use ARP hardware when possible. My factory rod bolts stretched when reassembling mine. Also have the cylinder head checked. Valve stem seals replaced, guides checked. Polishing crank journals is also a good idea.

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by gijoe985

I would be curious to see how other people felt about turbocharging a vx?

Doesn't a turbo spool the entire time on a gas engine? Because if so, bad idea.

[gijoe985]

Originally Posted by Baltothewolf

Doesn't a turbo spool the entire time on a gas engine? Because if so, bad idea.

True, but there are many people who have shown that a turbo increases fuel efficiency and the efficiency of the burn when it is just barely spooling. I.e. if it "kicks in" at 3000rpm, it helps a lot with fuel at 1000-2700. Which is the range that I drive in.

It was just a thought. I've seen people turbo an old dodge dart with a slant 6 and get 30-40 mpg. Which is amazing for an old hulk like that.

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by gijoe985

True, but there are many people who have shown that a turbo increases fuel efficiency and the efficiency of the burn when it is just barely spooling. I.e. if it "kicks in" at 3000rpm, it helps a lot with fuel at 1000-2700. Which is the range that I drive in.

It was just a thought. I've seen people turbo an old dodge dart with a slant 6 and get 30-40 mpg. Which is amazing for an old hulk like that.

Well, I know people turbo insights and get extremely good results. So idk? I would love to see it done and see the data.

[IMI4tth3w]

Originally Posted by 02ws6

Carry the block to a machine shop where they can check each bore. I'm certain a fresh crosshatch will be necessary. Use ARP hardware when possible. My factory rod bolts stretched when reassembling mine. Also have the cylinder head checked. Valve stem seals replaced, guides checked. Polishing crank journals is also a good idea.

thanks for the info.

Already have a set of new valve stem steals ready to go. I checked the head as best i could with my straightedge everything looks good. As i said, the engine was in perfect running condition with no leaks in the old headgasket. Also, there are no bent valves so i dont think there should be anything wrong with the valve guides but i'll visually inspect them as i change the stem seals.

i've already got arp head studs and i'll grab a set of arp rod bolts as well.

now to find a shop i trust to check the bores and do a fresh crosshatch in the block.

[Farlander]

I'm interested in the outcome of this too. What is knife-edging the crank mean? I have 94 vx with 214k, was going to pull the motor because I see head gasket leaking oil, but runs fine. I think I'm going to check compression before tearing it apart... also, what about the springs and pins that lock and unlock the intake valves together when vtec kicks in? Mine are working perfectly smooth so I'm afraid to mess with them but 214k...

[some_other_dave]

Knife-edging the crank means grinding the leading edges of the bits that swing around to a sharp edge. In theory, this helps them go through the air and the oil spray that are inside the engine block. It helps at high RPMs, but doesn't really do much at low RPMs where we like to drive. In a high-revving race motor, it can be good for a couple of percentage points of power, in combination with boat-tailing the mains (more aero mods to the moving parts of the crank).

Don't bother with those in a street motor.

-soD