Need Ecomodding Assistance!

[ithinkidontknow]

So in about 4 months I am looking to take a road trip with a few friends covering about 2500-3000 miles. I drive a 1998 Toyota Camry 2.2 L 5S-FE I4 133 hp automatic transmission (yes I know not the best for fuel economy) but on my last road trip with 4 people and about 200-300 pounds worth of gear, I managed about 32.5 mpg (also not the best, but I am new to this stuff ). As it stands, there are no mods on my car (except if you want to count 1 missing mudflap ). Anyway, needless to say, I am looking to get better mileage and would like to make a few mods. The mods I would like to do are as follows; bellypan, rear wheel skirts, partial grille block, tape seams, MAYBE smooth wheel covers, mudflap delete, also might look into passenger mirror delete. I am going to California so I cant really afford an A/C delete but almost everything else is a possibility! Any ideas from you guys would be greatly appreciated. Also, I assume many of you guys have done mods like this in the past so any helpful tips for installation would be appreciated also. Maybe this will even be a challenge for you guys as the Camry isn't exactly the most aerodynamic car . Oh and another challenge, I would like to keep the mods under the price of the amount of gas I will save, so figure if I get a gain of 8mpg, over 2500 miles, I will save about $40 give or take a few. This might be impossible but I would at least like to try my best.

Also, the car below is not mine, just a representation of what mine looks like.

Thanks in advance

[MetroMPG]

Mod #1: got instrumentation? ScanGauge or MPGuino?

[UfoTofU]

You don't ever need to remove the air conditioner. If you want to save power, don't use it or use it less. Keeping it also helps you in case you need to sell your car.

Although you'll use it in California, it's for future reference

[aerohead]

8 mpg would push you to 40.5mpg,a 24.6 % increase.To do this with drag reduction would require you to lower the drag coefficient on the Camry to 0.16(if the standard car is around Cd0.32).This would be a tad cleaner than basjoos CRX.Take a hard look at his AeroCivic,with Cd0.17.This is what you'll have to accomplish for those kinds of gains.

[ithinkidontknow]

8 mpg is including using more fuel efficient driving techniques also, the 32.5 mpg was without hardly any use of coasting or other techniques. I would hope 8 would be attainable with a complete overhaul.

[ithinkidontknow]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Mod #1: got instrumentation? ScanGauge or MPGuino?

Unfortunately no, I am looking to get one but for now 150 bucks is a little too pricy. If I find the money I will definitely make this a priority.

[Bullockracing]

Look at the mods list (top of page), but I came up with a few cheapies for you:

1. max the inflation on the sidewall of your tires - 75 cents at the air pump
2. delete the mudflaps - $0
3. remove wipers - get the right tool for it, and keep them in the trunk - $5 for the tool
4. "skeletonize" your air intake housing (on the atmosphere side, not the engine side) - $0
5. Get a K&N replacement filter - $40 (or so)
6. Replace the factory exhaust resonators with straight pipe, or if you want it quieter, with larger-diameter straight-through (bullet case glasspack-type) mufflers - $40 or so depending on shop
7. Replace the factory muffler with a larger-diameter straight-through muffler (Oval case, not bullet case) - $40 or so depending on shop
8. lower viscosity synthetic engine oil (I prefer Mobil One) - at the next oil change
9. synthetic transmission fluid - at the next service date
10. synthetic wheel bearing/CV joint grease - at the next service date
11. Make a flushmount front license plate holder - you'll have to be crafty, but inset the license plate into the bumper and cover it with lexan - $20 in material, + much time...

[ithinkidontknow]

Originally Posted by Bullockracing

Look at the mods list (top of page), but I came up with a few cheapies for you:

1. max the inflation on the sidewall of your tires - 75 cents at the air pump
...

For this, I have always wondered, what is usually considered a safe inflation? A lot of you guys put your tire pressure up to 60 psi. I wouldnt think that that is what the tire is supposed to have. The max tire pressure as listed by the manufacturer is 36psi for my tires. How much above that can I go safetly? I am sure you guys have played with tire pressure quite a bit so any insight would be helpful.

[99LeCouch]

A few PSI above sidewall will not hurt anything.

[Matt Herring]

If you're looking for an 8mpg gain and only want to spend approx. $40 to do so the biggest mpg gain can be found in your right foot and right hand (foot light on the pedal and hand on the shift ready for neutral pulse and glide).

Since you have time before your trip it's time to practice extreme pulse and glide and conservative acceleration off the blocks. Time every stop light you can so you're in constant motion, neutral coast as much as possible, securely affix pizza pan/coroplast wheel covers, fill undertray gaps with free salvaged material and psi has to be at least 36 if you're rated for 36 in your current tires. Keep highway speeds around 57 mph (or 70 to 50 coast down if you're using P&G), draft the rigs carefully, antenna delete (listen to cd's), windows up to maximize aero (and as little a/c as possible...or...with a/c off turn air to coolest setting and just run fresh air).

In total, these mods cost about $5. I'm guessing you will not be behind the wheel for the entire 3000 miles so you had better get the additional drivers on-board as well or your hard work will be wasted when they take the wheel. You'll have weather on your side since you'll be traveling in the summer. Good luck bro!