01-18-2012, 07:28 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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...beats walking...
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...a "new" automotive term would have to be used: a "Hyndenberg Blow-out"
Last edited by gone-ot; 01-18-2012 at 09:43 PM..
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Today
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Other popular topics in this forum...
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01-18-2012, 07:35 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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old tele,
you've been in the 'altitude' for tooo long.!!!
lol
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01-18-2012, 07:59 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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...beats walking...
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...uh, which? 'altitude' or 'attitude' or 'aptitude'? or, all three?
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01-18-2012, 08:25 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Eco taco - '21 Toyota Tacoma Sr access cab 90 day: 22.72 mpg (US)
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H2 is bad in tires. They put n2 in tires so when they warm up or temp changes it doesnt change. H2 changes volume rapidly idk how much but I do know that the difference at night alone would make them go flat.
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01-18-2012, 08:27 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tele man
...uh, which? 'altitude' or 'attitude' or 'aptitude'? or, all three?
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you've been in tuson tooo long! the thin air is affecting your tinkin!!!!
inventing new words!!!
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01-18-2012, 09:45 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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...beats walking...
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...warped minds are easily amused (I'm told...repeatedly).
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01-18-2012, 10:38 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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You guys are confusing un-sprung weight with un-sprung mass. Most of the time the terms are interchangeable, but even if you somehow achieved negative weight, the mass is what matters.
Anyway, on topic... best places to lose weight on a car:
Wheels
Tires
Brakes
Exhaust
Intake
Battery
Spare Tire/jack/tools
not carry around extra crap
Those are all legal mods in *ST classes, and it's not uncommon for a *ST autocross car to weigh in 150-200lbs below curb weight, without sacrificing any creature comforts.
That said, I wouldn't pursue replacing any parts with lightweight parts until they wear out. For the battery, you can use a Deka battery (much cheaper than the Odyssey, and same manufacturer as Braille) for a significant weight savings when your current battery dies. When your tires go bad, look into some used lightweight wheels at the same time and you can probably save a few pounds per corner. If you are willing to do some non-reversible mods you can save some more weight with strategic cutting.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ProDarwin For This Useful Post:
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01-18-2012, 11:30 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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...beats walking...
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"And, now, back to our regularly scheduled programming."
ProDarwin is correct, especially about exchanging the stock heavy cast-iron 'exhaust' manifold for a set of light-weight tube headers! Not so much, though with 'intakes' as most "current" engines actually are using molded plastic assemblies. But, if it's an older engine, there's a 50-50 chance the intake could be either aluminum or cast-iron.
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01-18-2012, 11:43 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProDarwin
You guys are confusing un-sprung weight with un-sprung mass. Most of the time the terms are interchangeable, but even if you somehow achieved negative weight, the mass is what matters.
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Quite right, it was only me getting sloppy with my grammer. Mass would be the correct word since we are interested in the objects inertia, which is not subject to change. Weight on the other hand changes with acceleration.
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01-19-2012, 12:54 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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