12-10-2007, 06:13 PM
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#31 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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Olds is right: a chop/taper job will have practicality issues.
Suddenly, it's a 2+2 (kids only in the rear seat). But it's still got more cargo space than than a sedan, and more seating options than a CRX.
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Today
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12-10-2007, 06:33 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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ECO-Evolution
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Here's the basic idea. Minus a lot of other details that need doing...
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Man that nice. I give that design
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12-11-2007, 04:24 PM
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#33 (permalink)
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Driving NOW
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Perkasie, Pa
Posts: 189
Now - '07 Hyundai Accent GS Xspire - '97 Ford Aspire 90 day: 47.9 mpg (US)
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TomO, got your PM with address. 'Stop the Hose Job' sticker in tomorrow's mail.
Darin, that 'FastBack' Escort is definately worth a sticker! Don't think I still have your address, PM me and I will send you out your winnings (sticker).
By the way...Is there an 'optimum' angle of decent-slope?
How 'bout the rear undertray up angle? I think I remember you saying once that 11 percent up angle was max for Aero Gains. I believe thats what was concluded when I had my undertray coroplast on the XFi 'jutting' out past the bumper.
Should the two points get as close as possible to meeting or should there be a definate 'cut off' of sorts around the bumper and lights?
Thanks for your suggestions.
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12-11-2007, 04:39 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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Depends on the Day
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Great look!
That Escort looks great!
It's too bad they didn't make a 3rd gen, 5-door. The Focus was on it's way in, I'm afraid. It probably wouldn't have an aero roofline like the model, that's for sure! Again, great work...
RH77
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12-13-2007, 04:27 AM
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#35 (permalink)
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Driving NOW
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Perkasie, Pa
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Now - '07 Hyundai Accent GS Xspire - '97 Ford Aspire 90 day: 47.9 mpg (US)
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Yaristock, your sticker is in the mail!, Thanks again
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12-14-2007, 02:58 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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Driving NOW
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Perkasie, Pa
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Now - '07 Hyundai Accent GS Xspire - '97 Ford Aspire 90 day: 47.9 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaristock
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Increase EGR size
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Yaristock, (or anyone who can answer this) I am unfamiliar with this modification. What is the benefit increasing the EGR size?
Also, you mentioned ECU remapping. Anyone have any idea where I could find info on this, or people/companies that do this?
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12-14-2007, 03:53 PM
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#37 (permalink)
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Dartmouth 2010
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You could tune the ecu yourself, look into megasquirt. Would cost money though and in my experience doesn't net much gain.
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12-14-2007, 04:48 PM
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#38 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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The theory behind increasing EGR is that it's depleted of oxygen - so it's inert in terms of aiding combustion.
By reducing the amount of oxygen in the intake air, you're forced to run at a wider throttle opening to produce a given amount of power. The ECU will (try to) ensure you don't run rich in the leaner air with feedback from the o2 sensor.
The wider throttle opening should reduce pumping losses and increase efficiency.
Assuming... the added heat in the EGR doesn't reduce dynamic timing.
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12-18-2007, 03:14 AM
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#39 (permalink)
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Awesomeness personified
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Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you the Coche de JosĂ© MarĂ*a González de Hermosillo!
Advantages:
No painting involved! just a 4 new doors off of appropriately colored junkers and a pair of stickers.
Disadvantages:
Risk of being deported.
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"I got 350 heads on a 305 engine. I get 10 miles to the gallon. I ain't got no good intentions." - The Drive By Truckers.
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12-23-2007, 06:30 AM
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#40 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Before I list ideas, I would stay away from any that involve cutting the vehicle's body. Unibody cars are designed to use the entire structure, and removing parts (especially any part of the roof) can adversely affect its structural integrity. You seem like a nice enough guy, I'd like too see you stay alive.
With that said, I present:
The Gascort
1997 Ford Escort Wagon MPG Project
2.0 SPI 4cyl Gasoline Engine
Manual Transaxle
Engine:
-Factory 2.0 SPI Engine
-Header & Free Flowing Exhaust
-Replace 2nd O2 sensor with appropriate resistor now that you dont have a cat (its part of the header, so it goes when you replace the header), otherwise you will throw a CEL
-Port the head, gasket match intake manifold and head
-50% Under Drive Crankshaft Pulley
-A/C Delete
-Power Steering Delete (Manual Rack Conversion)
-Get rid of the winsheild wahser fluid resevoir and hoses
-Timing belt upper/bottom cover can be removed, I know i dont run mine.
-Intake with free flow air filter
-Innovate Wideband (you can adjust the A/F ratio sent to the ecu with this via its narrowband output)
-That stock radiator is a bit oversized, run a civic half-size radiator and aftermarket fan.
-If you choose to remove the alternator and belt, you can also remove the belt tensioner as well.
Trans:
-Synthetic fluid
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Exterior:
-Undercarriage Tray/Paneling
-Driver side Mirrors Replaced with ‘Fold In’ Mirror, passenger side mirror not needed if you have a rear view mirror.
-Grille Block and lower vents blocked
-Rear Door, Rear ÂĽ and Rear Hatch Glass replaced with Plexiglas for weight savings.
-Rear wheelwell covers
-Carbon fiber hood
-Remove those "bump" strips that run the length of the doors
Interior:
-All Carpet and Sound Deadening Material Removed (weight savings).
-Interior Gutted…Everything behind driver’s seat removed (weight savings).
-You dont need the driver's door panel either, nor the passengers. The door latch handle bolts to the metal door, and you can silicone the window in place and remove the window gears.
-Headliner removed
-You only need one seat to drive....
-Cut off the passenger side of the dash (just watch out for wires)
-For the daring: Remove airbag, then remove airbag computer, wiring, and sensors. Plus since the airbag is removed, you cant control the horn, so it can go as well.
-Dont really need the blower motor, do we?
-Nor much of the HVAC system, all those vents just add weight
-Since you no longer have a functioning HVAC system, it would be a bit silly to leave the heater core. Remove it and bridge the coolant hoses.
-Radios are for the weak....
-Wires have weight, so you can go through the harnesses and remove any that no longer serve a function. Radio, heating, A/C, P/S wires all come to mind.
Suspension/Wheels:
-Front/Rear Lowering Springs
-Miata 14" BBS wheels (the sub 8lb ones)
-Oversized tires at max psi ( I opted for this instead of changing the transmission ratio since its easier, and you can experiment with different sizes)
-Lightweight lug nuts
-Switch to the smaller rotor braking system from 1991 non-gt escorts. It bolts up.
-Note: 13" wheels wont fit over stock rotors
Other:
-Synthetic Fluids
-Hot Air Intake
-Smallest lightweight practical fuel cell for your use.... you dont really need a 11 gallon tank for running around town. You can even mount it where your passenger seat used to be, lowering the amount of fuel line used
-Scangauge2 (how else are ya gonna measure your results)
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i wouldnt replace the ecu, its surprisingly efficient (yields about 48mpg cruising on a level surface at the 55mph sweet spot on a stock mtx). You can always make some adjustments buy altering the fuel ratio the ECU sees, using the wideband's simulated narrowband output.
see you at feoa...
Last edited by Sstyle; 12-23-2007 at 07:00 AM..
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