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Old 04-20-2013, 12:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by some_other_dave View Post
Most wiper motors are not designed to run backwards.

The wiper motors that I have the most experience with are out of older aircooled Porsches. They have microswitches built into the output linkage that tells the motor where the "park" position is. If the microswitch gets closed and the wiper stalk is in the "do not run" position, the relay running the motor gets switched off. If either of those things is not true, the relay keeps sending power to the motor.

-soD
That's pretty much how they all work.

The reciprocation is achieved in the linkage. If you search for "4 bar linkage" or similar you will be able to see how they work.

How about looking at the motor and linkage from a car with pop up headlights? Even better if it's one with just eyelids - rare of course but there's going to be few buyers for those parts too.

For a grille block in general I think a 2 or 3 flap one, horizontal flaps, with each flap either fully open or closed, opening in stages, would work well. The open flap should meet up with a vane immediately behind it to form a duct to the radiator core. I think part opened vanes are going to trip the air and cause drag. 2 or 3 discrete ducts, fully open or closed, should be better.

Maybe even add a turning vane to encourage the airflow down and out of the engine bay on the other side of the radiator.

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Old 04-20-2013, 12:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Sheep, are you doing it right? Myself, JimE and a few others have like 99% of our grills blocked off on our insights and heat isnt an issue. Running the ac I see 184 degrees where as the coolant relay doesnt click til 202 degrees F. Without ac I see 177-179 degrees.
I have some good hill climbs for 10-15 miles where i'd like to open up the 80% grill block for 100% cooling for safety's sake, Then on the downhills, Close off everything. I found some 50-80 lbs linear actuators from $60-150 depending on condition but a grill block isn't worth that much investment. This was research for a different project though, i'm sure 15-20lbs would be much cheaper.
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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50-80 lbs? Is your grill block made of cast iron?
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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50-80 lbs? Is your grill block made of cast iron?
I was thinking active ground effect for 7.5 foot boat tail. To top hinge it at the base of the hatch, pull up to a parallel parking spot, and have it lift the whole thing over the top of the car. Easy parking!
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I was thinking active ground effect for 7.5 foot boat tail.
So, you're going to be using two of them then?

Door solenoids are momentary, aren't they? You'd have to decide to fail open or closed. Why not a manual choke cable 4' long?
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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how about a power window motor it is designed to move up and down and lift heavy load (for grill block)
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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how about a power window motor it is designed to move up and down and lift heavy load (for grill block)
Yes, thank you! Just came thought of that and came back to this thread. I'd have to find something lighter if possible. I was playing with my window regulator and i almost broke off a plastic anchor clip. It's so powerful without the weight of a window and the gap at the top to stop it.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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You could use a windshield motor to do what you wanted. You would build the linkage just the same as it is for controlling one wiper, the only difference is you would need to extend the rod that is connected to the block.

Connect the motor and linkage to the block, get two momentary switches. Place the switches where the linkage will press the button only when it is fully open or fully closed. It will be easier if the switches are normally closed. Run the momentary switches to a three way switch (might have to use relays to handle the power). So now when you press the switch to open the motor will move till you release the switch or till the linkage presses the button cutting power to the switch. Now only the other direction of the 3way switch has power allowing you to close it.

I hope this makes sense.

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