Aeromod this, if you dare! (2004 Chevy 1 ton, cab and chassis truck)

[iamnotahippee]

I have definitely been toying with just an rv type air deflector mounted to the headache rack.


It might help some when i havea building on the truck. My other thought is that i might be able to somehow use 2 of them together to have a larger deflection area. Mounting a large deflector like on a big rig would be a great idea, especially if i can find one that would fit with minimum modifications. But what would the results be for empty running?
Another thought is running a deflector on each side of the headache rack for the sides.

[oldtamiyaphile]

Even the biggest deflector isn't going make any measurable gains when loaded, and will hurt when empty. For you to see any gains it would have to start at the front bumper and swoop smoothly up to building roof height (and width).

All I can think of is to make a deflector for the back of the empty truck bed to deflect air over the trailer. Even then I'd guess the gains to be small unless the fairing is also the width of the building.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by iamnotahippee

So, the next portion, I have to be able to get into and out of peoples yards to deliver the buildings, thus loading them on the truck itself when possible. Sometimes I will haul the building on the trailer and then pull it onto the truck to set the building. Plus going to a tractor like that puts us in another class with DOT and our requirements go crazy. I have a CDL so I can legally drive one, but once get a rig that grosses over 26k things get alot more difficult and expensive. Now at some point we may go to a tractor for hauling our buildings from our manufacturer, but it is overkill on almost all of our deliveries.
The flat deck trailer, while not the best aero option, is the best business option. On a low boy with the axles up and behind the load, you greatly reduce capacity. Trailer length is limited by DOT to 53' without needing a permit every time you have it on the road. So with the axles set up like that you loose that much footage of carrying, unless a smaller building could be set on top of them. The other manipulation the flat deck allows is rear overhang. You can put over 50' of buildings on a 50' trailer because, depending on the building size, you could run with 6-8' of rear overhang.
My primary thought still lies with what I can do to improve empty, unloaded mileage on the pulling unit itself.

For the truck itself,you want it to be something like this when you're not loaded

If your really chasing dollars (as some members have already mentioned)
*grille block
*electric cooling fan
*airdam
*rocker panel extensions/side skirts
*wheel arch gap reducers
*belly pan
*rear wheel skirts
*have an awning company or tarp company,or automotive trim shop sew you an inflatable aeroshell which can roll out and strap down,inflating to cover the 'bed' area like in the White truck above.This is where you'll see most of your savings.
*If you want to patent it you'll be a millionaire and then you can just move buildings for fun.
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As far as air deflectors go,your cab is so close to your load,and your load so large they're gonna have a tough time directing a beneficial flow.It would be better to have inflated plastic swimming pools attached to the face of the buildings to get their radiused edges on the corners of the buildings,all-around,to give you attached flow.(another millionaire!).
Any air deflector would have to be removed after unloading or it would become a parasite even folded down.

[Tulok]

Inflatable triangle shape boat tail seems like your best bet!

that's a good idea aerohead

[freebeard]

If you were a hippy you could steal this [face] and be grateful while you deadheading.



You could have a rooftop deflector that hinges at the bottom of the headache rack and slides back to 2 to 3 times the cab height. The 'stinger' on the VW becomes the deflector on your truck. Fiberglass tent rods.

[UFO]

Also, if you were a hippy you could use biodiesel and not be a "carbon abuser".

Oh wait, biodiesel is not just for hippies.

[iamnotahippee]

I could def go for biodiesel, if it was available in my area. I don't know what the recommendation. Is for a Duramax as far as bio-d is concerned. I would probably atleast add an aftermarket filter setup. At $70 a pop I don't want to be changing the OEM filter more than necessary, and at $400 apiece for injectors (and a grand labor) I sure don't want to risk them either.

Rob

[3-Wheeler]

If you happen to be moving two housings, then try to keep them close together, as in Figure 13 in the linked post.

The drag goes down quite a bit when the slenderness ratio is larger.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...pes-11183.html

Jim.

[UFO]

Originally Posted by iamnotahippee

I could def go for biodiesel, if it was available in my area. I don't know what the recommendation. Is for a Duramax as far as bio-d is concerned. I would probably atleast add an aftermarket filter setup. At $70 a pop I don't want to be changing the OEM filter more than necessary, and at $400 apiece for injectors (and a grand labor) I sure don't want to risk them either.

Rob

I never heard of any problems with Duramax, only the newer VWs with particulate filters. I don't use any special filtering, just change my vehicle filter at the recommended interval. I've had more issues plugging filters from bad diesel than biodiesel because my B100 is filtered to 1 micron.

I've put over 200k on three vehicles running B100 with no fuel related issues other than winter gelling (which really really sucks). Of course I needed to replace the injector returns on my old Mercedes with viton, and I had my ALH VW fuel pump re-sealed with viton as well.

[gumby79]

Was easyer to take apic of my ideas than fight with my phone... Ask your questions !!!
I used a clamshell