To complete this thread so others can learn or use in the future, I have inserted the final images, and what I did.
Materials I used:
Box of fuses for the fuse you want to use (1)
PVC Piping to push wire through, and build a stand (2)
Switch for ON/OFF (3)
20' of wire (4)
Fuse Extender (5)
Two Wire to Fuse things (6)
(1) I used a 5 amp ATM, keeping the OEM fuse in the glove box with the extras, in case I need to put it to factory, or need an extra fuse. (2) I measured the feet for how far it would need to travel for me, and added two elbows. (3) Any switch will work, I have wanted to switch to a switch with the safety cap- I have one particular person who always forgets its there and cuts my engine. (4) Wire used was advised by the techs when they knew how much power would be going through. (5) To make it easier to work with, and easier to pull out. I was able to build my entire setup, and just plug it in. (6) To plug the points in.
I used the Fuel Pump fuse, but it was my third (I believe) attempt to find a fuse that worked. To know if it works, either A) attempt to start the car without the fuse in (be ready to turn the car off it won't start, don't let it try to turn over forever) or B), have the car running and pull the fuse. As a novice, by myself, and half the time testing outside of AutoZone, I opted for A.
I suggest measuring twice, and cutting once. Run your PVC, then wire the lines through. With one solid cord, run the electrical from your fuse box through the PVC, make a 6 inch or so loop on the end, then run it back. Make sure there is slack. Now double check, making sure there is only loose/extra wire, and that everything totally opens and closes. Make your cuts, then uninstall. Solder the pieces and parts together, then reinstall. Note, when the switch is soldered into place, that can not pass through the PVC since it is so much larger, and other parts also may not fit, so run your wire first, then cut and assemble.
Results: Over 3 tanks, I noted a 3.9% decrease, then the following 3 tanks a 8.42% increase, although this is when I switched to premium fuel, surely that is not the sole cause for the jump. After that other modifications were added. One issue in calculating actual performance improvement is weather changes, and year over year will be the most effective. Since I live in Ohio, a 90 degree day can easily turn into snow with lightning.
Heres the full setup completed, no in process images:
How it looks closed up
Fuse Panel - Note I used an extra extender thing to give me more space/room to work
From Door Jam to Fuse Box
Door Jam, since firewall opening is on drivers side
What the floor looks like (PVC underneath)
Kill Switch
Original Post Follows:
I absolutely love EOC. But I rarely do it because of having to turn the ignition switch to off or acc, whatever it is that kills the engine. I do bump start, so it isn't like I am wearing it out as much, but I still don't want to do more key turning than I need to. Especially if that moment of off is not counting the brief miles.
Looking at the how tos on here, I haven't seen a clear name for the diagram. I have looked at four or five threads on here, but it still isn't totally clear to me. Also, I haven't been able to find a map of the wiring online at all, by schematic, fuel injector, fi, wiring, electric.
In addition, I have a six year warranty on my car, or 100,000 miles. I will be inspected, and if I do something that could be the cause, my claim may not be approved.
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So my situation. Is there anyway one can use a fuse instead of cutting wires? Or does anyone have any other suggestions for what to look up, resources, or any pointers? I hate to make ANOTHER thread on this, and I have done research, but I have found nothing for it. If anyone has any input, please let me know.
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