Someone asked me recently if I could advise him on what things to watch out for while shopping for a used Insight.
(When I discovered my 2000 Insight sitting on a used car lot out in the countryside back in April, I fired off the exact same question to EcoModder member Robert Smalls - urgent!
)
Seems a thread on the subject would be useful for future reference. These cars are finding their way into the hands of more and more EcoModders, since they're coming down in price, and may need electrical / mechanical attention. (Both being characteristics that appeal to forum members!)
Other first generation Insight owners: feel free to make suggestions and I'll expand this post.
Summary:
- IMA hybrid battery pack condition
- Catalytic converter
- Driveability issues in lean burn from clogged EGR
- Corroded drivetrain-to-chassis ground straps
- Weak 12 volt battery problems
- Manual transmission problems
- CVT judder
- Missing original equipment (tires/aero panels)
- Other corrosion points (fuel/brake lines)
- Cracked engine mount
- Rear shock absorbers
- Misc
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1) Obviously: IMA hybrid battery pack condition
Expect it to die at about the ~10 year mark, if it hasn't been replaced yet.
It will last that long if used every day. It will
die a lot sooner if the car sits unused for an extended period.
If it is dead or ailing, there are several options that shouldn't scare the ecomodding type away (if the price is right, of course):
You can refurbish one yourself; have it rebuilt; buy & install a used one; or buy new.
Consider buying a grid charger to extend high voltage battery life, see 99mpg.com
Or you can just drive the car with a dead pack (with IMA disabled), as I have been doing. You can still get phenomenal fuel economy, with some operational oddities.
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2) Catalytic converter
If the cat code is lit, it could be an $1,200 (US) problem (new), or ~800 used depending on availability of used parts. Can be rebuilt for ~$300-400.
Heat shields rust and rattle on both cats... use stainless hose clamps.
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3) Driveability issues in lean burn from clogged EGR
A jerky low-load engine hesitation seems somewhat common on older, high km/miles cars. The EGR valve & manifold can clog, and results in engine bucking when transitioning into lean burn, or when throttle position is changed while already in lean burn.
Many owners have resolved this simply by disassembling & cleaning the EGR system (manifold and/or valve).
If you've never driven a lean burn Honda engine before, you may find the lean burn transitions a little unsettling until you get used to it.
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4) Corroded drivetrain-to-chassis ground straps/cables
This can prevent the car's "back up" 12 volt engine starter from working, and other IMA issues & random dashboard lights to pop up.
Most of the time, the ICE is started via the hybrid motor/generator. But the 12v starter is occasionally summoned by the car's computer, depending on ambient temperature, or if the hybrid functions are manually disabled (via the IMA - Integrated Motor Assist - ON/OFF switch).
The cables/straps corrode internally. There are 3 to replace: two cables under the air filter, plus the battery ground cable.
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5) Weak 12 volt battery
Make sure the 12v battery is in good shape; the car really does not exercise it very well. An ailing 12v battery will cause issues similar to the ground strap problems.
A dying 12v will not necessarily be obvious, since the engine is normally started using the IMA motor & high voltage battery.
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6) Manual transmission problems
Synchros: Second gear synchro is a weak point. You'll know if these are worn if the car won't shift smoothly, and/or "grinds" when shifting (especially when shifting quickly, and/or when the transmission is cold).
Input shaft bearing: symptom is a low growling sound in first or reverse gears under power. Noise goes away in higher gears or if you turn up the radio.
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7) CVT (continuously variable transmission) judder
CVT tranny has "judder" issues caused by dirty fluid, if you are lucky. CVT fluid is pricy and requires a lot for a flush. CVT clutch pack is a less likely the issue, but more easily fixed.
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8) Missing original equipment (tires/aero panels)
LRR tires: Does it have Bridgestone Potenza RE92's, in size 165/65/r14, with good tread? Insight owners swear by the fuel economy benefits of these Insight-specific low rolling resistance tires. You will want them on your car.
Aerodynamic underbody panels: Is the full suit of panels there? Maybe not - some may have been torn off, or not replaced after being removed for service. But a coroplast DIY set is at least as good -- if not better -- than original equipment.
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9) Other corrosion points (fuel/brake lines)
The unibody and some suspension components may be made from corrosion-resistant aluminum, but there is steel used in various places that will rust and cause problems.
The fuel line on the pasenger side firewall has a rust problem at the anchor point. (The smell of gas when running the fan is a tip off.)
Brake lines also need to be watched in rusty climes, and fluid should be changed ~ 3yrs.
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10) Cracked engine mount
Bottom center motor mount will be cracked with age. Replacement is ~$75.
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11) Rear shock absorbers
Rear shocks are big$$$, can be replaced with Monroes and and little engineering.
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12) Misc
- Driver's "auto down" power window switch is fragile, handle with care.
- Oil pan (magnesium) drain threads are FRAGILE. Instal Fumoto F106N quick drain. Use torque wrench.
- OEM Seat covers are crap. Go aftermarket, Wetoakies, COSTCO, etc.
- Lube window channels every fall with Shin Etsu or equal.
- Leaks in the A to B pillar trim over both doors will cause mold & musty smell - wet seatbelt/floor.
- Engine coolant fill is another thing that must be done correctly, or no cabin heat.
Today
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