Finally posting pics of my Stealth Kill Switch.

[moorecomp]

All,

After a new member requested info on my stealth kill switch mod for MyZX2, I am posting this to show how I accomplished this on my car. I wanted to do a kill switch on my car for a while, but could not bring myself to mount it to the shifter as some have done. Tape, hose clamps, epoxy, none appealed to me. I wanted to keep the interior looking stock. So I thought what could I use to activate a switch that was already in place? I pulled the center console apart, and the e-brake release pawl was exposed enough to fit the bill.
The injectors in my car are 14 ohms of resistance, so it is only about 1 amp through the switch. I fabbed a simple "L" bracket and attached the switch to it.





I screwed the bracket to the floor under the e-brake so the downward motion of the release pawl, when the release button on the end of the brake lever was pushed, actuated the switch.





The switch is wired to interrupt the common power feed to the injectors.



You can add a bypass switch in case the microswitch ever fails.



I had tried interrupting the ignition, but unburnt fuel hitting the hot cat caused a SES light. You could actually hear the rumble in the exhaust of the burning fuel. I have had it installed this way for going on 2 years now and it works great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XOpXgcvK_0

[skaana]

So when connecting to the fuel injectors are you modifying a fuse or are to splicing into the wires between the Idle control valve and the injectors? If it is a fuse I have 2 that say Fuel INJ. One is under the hood (30A) and one in the passenger Compartment (10A). Which should I use?

[moorecomp]

I cut and spliced into the single red wire near the injectors. On your car, if you follow the harness from the injectors, upstream, you come to a large connector. On one side of the connector is the red/wht wire and the other side is the red wire, shown in the original wire diagram I posted, near the IAC valve. Shown here, the red/wht wire comes from the PCM Power Relay inside the CCRM, which is fed by the 30A fuse. The 30A fuse supplies power to the 10A Inj fuse and a lot of other stuff. I did not want to risk having a SES code pop on me, so I just cut and spliced.

[LmidgitD]

Think I could bug you for a picture of the spliced wire near the injectors? I guess I am somewhat stumped by how to interrupt the power to the injectors via a switch. I'll be doing a lot more research before I perform this mod, but it is nice to ask someone who owns the same year and make of my car.

I am not worried about having a switch visible in my car because the previous owner has an on/off switch located between the shifter and the e-brake, which is nice.

Thank you for any help!

[Christ]

He has a switch that is normally closed, so it's normally allowing continuity of the circuit. When he pushes the e brake button (effing brilliant!), it breaks the circuit from that wire to the injectors.

If you use a toggle, just wire it in line the same way.

[LmidgitD]

Ok that's what I was thinking, but I wanted to make sure before I spliced some important wires.

Thanks

[moorecomp]

Snowing again here. Have to wait a while for pics. Spring in Northern Michigan, what ya gonna do?

[Tygen1]

Thanks for finally posting this! You've been promising to for years! It is quite brilliant!
Just looked at your fuel log, yer doing great! Looks like you nearly got your best tank yet

[moorecomp]

Yes, it has been a good winter. About 3mpg better average for the 4 months of Nov-Feb of last winter to this winter. I did not let the air down in the tires this year and I have the Home Depot air dam on now.

[California98Civic]

Very nice. I use my e-brake as an assist to the main brake on longer EOC glides. So I can't use that switch. I have thought of carving a housing into the dashboard side on the large plastic shifter knob.