How to -Kill Switch 2013 Subaru Sti

[jedi_sol]

This can serve as a reference for the few Sti owners out there that may want to do a kills switch for their car.

Currently i am still working on a better kill switch method, but here is my work so far. Once I finish my kill switch 2.0, i'll post up my final work (step by step).

Since the car is brand new, the goal of my kill switch is to ABSOLUTELY NOT CUT ANY WIRES. The kill switch MUST be easily removeable in the event i need to take the car into the dealer to get warranty service.

Kill Switch 1.0:
Found the Service manual for a 2013 Subaru Sti...looked up the wiring diagrams. Per the many kill switch threads in this forum, i am looking for somewhere to cut the ignition, fuel injectors, fuel pump, or crankshaft position sensor.

I found something that controls the ignition and fuel pump! FB-38


I Traced the wiring diagram FB-38 to fuse #12 in my interior driver side fuse box.


I turned the car on...pulled the fuse, engine dies...SWEET! Onto building the switch.
1) 1 - ATM / mini fuse add-a-circuit
2) 1 - mini fuse holder
3) 2 - wires
4) 1 - switch (salvaged from my del sol kill switch)
5) solder
6) 1 replacement 15amp fuse
7) 1 15 amp fuse to cut into

Step 1:
Cut away the plastic covering of a 15 amp fuse to expose the "posts." Also cut the middle of the fuse to "break" the circuit.


Step 2:
Solder 1 wire onto one side of the 15 amp fuse...the other side of the wire goes to one "pole" of the switch.


Step 3:
Solder ANOTHER wire between the OTHER side of the 15 amp fuse and the second "pole" on the switch. Somewhere on this wire, BETWEEN the fuse and the switch, splice in the mini fuse holder to hold the REPLACEMENT 15am fuse


You'll end up something like this:


taped it up:


Testing Continuity:
On


Off


Test Drive:
Using fuse #12 kills the engine instantly, however, when bump starting the car...i noticed that the Subaru Intelligent Drive (the thing that chooses between the 3 throttle maps on this car) light starts to flash and my airbag light stays on.When the light is blinking, i can't toggle between 3 different driving modes. The only wait to clear these is to key the car off, then key it back on...which defeats the purpose of the kill switch.

Version 1.5:
I noticed there is a fuel pump fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I plugged in my kill switch into the fuel pump fuse. However, when testing, the fuel does not cut off instantly...rather it takes about 5-7 seconds to sputter to a full kill. I don't like the idea of unburnt fuel being sputterred into the combustion chamber and sitting there.

Also, i remember on my del sol, when i switched from fuel pump kill to instant kill...i noticed an increase of 5mpg between the two methods.

Version 2.0:
looking into the crankshaft position sensor to kill the engine....to follow later this weekend

[Occasionally6]

I love this. I hate cutting wires on any car so that it is reversible is great.

I have used a similar "fuse replacement" method on a headlight reminder chime. Where the wires break out from the fuse in the OEM position, I used wipes of Silicone sealant on each wire and that worked fine. I don't like insulating tape much. Some heat shrink applied to the wire ends might also work if the fuse is cut away neatly enough.

If you are getting the warning lights coming on it is probably setting fault codes. It is of little long term consequence other than to potentially confuse a service tech. if they check the codes as part of a vehicle service.

While the lights are on, the vehicle functions indicated may be disabled, it just depends on how the faults are dealt with in the computers.

It is possible to remove the wire terminal from a connector in a reversible way and sub in a wire from a wreck (wire terminals are pretty standardized.) that may be an alternative if you can't find a fuse that doesn't do more than kill the engine.

[California98Civic]

Nice experimenting. Nice work. I always love it when people post here with their partial successes and unexpected road blocks. Don't ignore the warning light. But why do those lights in particular come on and stay on? Seems odd.

[Occasionally6]

My guess would be the body integrated unit (SRS) and DCCD (diff.?) which are also provided power through that fuse.

[jedi_sol]

Kill switch 2.0 complete! It works beautifully!

Writeup to follow after celebratory dinner.

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by jedi_sol

Kill switch 2.0 complete! It works beautifully!

Writeup to follow after celebratory dinner.

Cool. Looking forward to the write-up.

james

[jedi_sol]

Kill Switch V. 2.0
This version works by cutting the signal from the Crankshaft position sensor. The engine will shut off cleanly and instantly and will not throw any Check Engine Light Codes.

Materials used:
1) 1 smallest precision flat head screwdriver (or anything really pointy and small)
2) 1 needle nose pliers
3) 2 quick splices
5) 2 female spade connectors
6) 2 long wires
7) 1 switch

Locate the engine harness on the upper left side of the engine bay



On the ENGINE side of the harness, press down the black release tab, The Grey bracket should pop up


Push the grey bracket 90* backwards towards the firewall to release the engine harness


Use needlenose pliers and pull out the white locking thing (it pulls out easily) to expose the small male connectors



Now you should be able to release the male pin connector. Firstly, The Crankshaft position sensor is pin #3 of the FIREWALL SIDE of the harness (female connectors)…




Therefore, find the corresponding MALE pin connector on the ENGINE side of the harness… it’s the BLUE WIRE, top row, 3rd from the LEFT if you’re looking at the wire harness from the backside where all of the wires are coming out

**UPDATE 10/15/2015 WRX owners, your pin #3 on the ENGINE SIDE will be WHITE - SEE BELOW


There is a small locking tab on the TOP of the spade connector. Insert the small precision flathead (or something flat and pointy) to release the tab…then you should be able to pull out the male spade connector from the back.



Now, grab your two wires and 2 quick splices. Splice one wire onto the BLUE wire (ENGINE SIDE) male pin side. Splice another wire onto the White wire (FIREWALL SIDE) on the female side.


**UPDATE 10/22/2015, WRX owners, your pin # 3 on the ENGINE side will be WHITE



FEMALE SIDE...top row, WHITE WIRE, 3rd from the RIGHT


Thread the wires through the fender,

…through the door jamb…


….Into the passenger compartment of the car.


Tuck the wires up behind the glove box and behind the center consol


Now with the two wires…splice in some female spade connectors into your switch.



You should end up with something like this…just basically what I had before…minus the fuse holder.


Finally, plug in the ENGINE HARNESS, tape up the exposed male pin connector to protect from shorting out and enjoy your new kill switch!

[California98Civic]

Great write-up. Smart mod. A model of how to do it and how to represent it. Thanks.

[jedi_sol]

I did this a long time ago, however, i never posted it up yet

I swapped out my old "toggle switch' because sometimes on long EOC coasts, i would forget to flip it back on.

Therefore, I replaced the toggle switch with a "brake switch" from a 93 honda del sol.

Now, all i have to do is press the button to kill the engine....then when i release the button, the car is ready to be bump started

[UltArc]

Sir, did you put a fuse in this line? From your build, it looks like you are essentially bypassing the current fuse. I am not an electrical expert, and it seems unlikely, but it could be an electrical hazard in the case something happens.