MPGuino release one workspace

[Blue07CivicEX]

Can you check the resistance across the buttons? is it just a simple |_| where pushing the button connects two pins? Should be easy to trouble shoot with a meter if you have one?

[SVOboy]

There's no resistance across either button, which leads me to assume they're broken.

[dcb]

How many leads on the buttons? Where they from?

[Blue07CivicEX]

might have gotten a hair of solder across the pins or just bad buttons, if you really felt ambitious you could de-solder and re-solder one, if that didn't work you could try de-soldering a broken one and the working one and swapping them to see the result, BUT then you run the risk of breaking the third one :-). If your solder job is messy you can pick up solder wick and clean some off, you can also heat up your soldering pen (I hope it's a small tip) clean the tip and draw a line between the solder points this should break any faint connection that might be bridging.

[SVOboy]

It seems like I have the wrong poles soldering on the two buttons, will correct it tomorrow.

[mhmitszach]

Originally Posted by dcb

Having gained a little more experience, I'm starting to like the green displays more myself. They seem more readable even when hot. Need to do a little homework before changing recommendations though (check prices/temperature ranges/availability).

SparkFun Electronics

This looks nice. They also have red on black and yellow on blue. Only 5-6 dollars more.

[dcb]

$6 more seems pretty steep, I think

Mouser has this from newhaven display for $6.98, except it is side pin. But the price is moving in the correct direction And ordering from mouser or digikey (or ???) means you can get some of the other electronic bits needed that sparkfun doesn't stock or that they overcharge for.

NHD-02161Z-FSY-YBW

Needs more digging through product catalogs and spec sheets to keep the price down though.

[dcb]

FYI, got a few questions about power for the iDuino. Here is just the power supply circuit from the PCB thread. The iduino, and possibly other creations, do not have an onboard regulator so you need something like this to make 5 volts out of 12.

[SVOboy]

^^ Thanks for the above

Anyway, it's working now, all the buttons and everything, just need to do the above and set it up.

How should I find the info I need to set up the parameters? Tank size is easy, but the rest of it? Anyone done this with a cx/vx yet?

Thanks.

[AndrewJ]

Originally Posted by SVOboy

How should I find the info I need to set up the parameters? Tank size is easy, but the rest of it? Anyone done this with a cx/vx yet?

Thanks.

5th generation civic hatchback - improving aerodynamics

^ that should have what'cher lookin for.

At least as far as I got before my LCD died.

I'll have to get back at it here next week...

[dcb]

AndrewJ, folks have had some success with just reprogramming it. Also I think asian cars should be 8204 per spec, at least I would start there and calibrate with a road test.

[wagonman76]

Hi, I am really thinking about starting on this project for my OBDI vehicles. Do I need to snap up one of the v1.0 serial boards before they are gone, or will everything work just the same with a v2.0 serial board? Im running NT4 sp6 so I do not have USB.

Will the board from the Sparkfun Electronics work the same? (Does HD44780 chipset mean it will work the same?) I would much prefer that to be easy on the eyes, as well as match my dash. Also the red/black one would go great with my Pontiac this winter. On my downstate trips I am in the car for 7 hours straight in the dark every other weekend, plus 5 more hours in the dark during the week. I need something easy on the eyes.

I am sure that I have seen the VSS pulses per mile in my factory service manuals, so the injector tweaking should be the main issue. My engines are MPFI V6, bank style firing (3 at a time). I know where all the wires are, Ive done 2 engine swaps.

I have done some programming but with the TI85 calculator and some Autocad lisp but nothing like what I see in this program. Ive built things with similar level of soldering, but Im only familiar with super basic things like relays, resistors. The chip flashing is new to me.

Hopefully I can provide some shared experience to this project and get something working for myself.

[dcb]

I think 1.0 is gone. I'm leaning towards the iDUINO these days for about the same money plus it has usb. But I need to do some more testing with the oscilloscope before I update the documentation.

Not sure which sparkfun board you mean, got a link?

I'll have some updated recommended hardware shortly. I've learned a few things since that first version.

[wagonman76]

SparkFun Electronics
This link was from a few posts back.

I would really like a serial version, but if you are going to a strictly USB version, I could most likely use my computer at work to flash the chip. Ill trust you in what you recommend is going to work best.

I did some reading through my 80s and early 90s GM factory service manuals. From what I can gather, it appears there are a few different combinations, but all with the same result. 1- Cable driven speedos have an optical pickup/module as a VSS, which sends 2000 PPM (pulses per mile) to the ECM. 2- Electronic speedos with non-electronic trannys, have a VSS buffer between the VSS and ECM, and it sends 2000 PPM to the ECM, and 4000 PPM to the gauge cluster. 3- Electronic speedos with electronic controlled trannys go direct to the ECM, and the ECM sends 4000 PPM to the gauge cluster.

[Yoshi]

FYI,
Following is VSS information for most vehicles at Rostra Precision Controls site.
For 1986-1995 model year vehicle
For 1996-2008 model year vehicle

Yoshi

[AndrewJ]

Just downloaded the new code, it fixed my LCD too.

And I know it's about the millionth time anyone has said this, but you're doing an awesome job dcb!

[awillard69]

Originally Posted by Yoshi

FYI,
Following is VSS information for most vehicles at Rostra Precision Controls site.

Good links, Yoshi, they helped me out, thanks.

[Wonderboy]

SVOboy, I'd appreciate any info you get about switch polarity, whether to get normally open or normally closed switches, how to wire them, etc. I have 4-pin tactiles and I think I'm having a problem similar to the one you are/were having.

Thanks!

[BrandonU]

The switches I am using are normally-open, 4 pin, tactile switches. The two sides of the switch are each internally connected to 2 pins. I didn't see any markings on my switches to indicate which pins went where, but it was fairly easy to figure out with a continuity tester (or ohm meter). 2 sets of pins will be connected internally without pushing the switch, giving you a "beep" or a 0 ohm reading on your tester. These 2 sets will be either side of your switch. It won't matter which pin of a particular set you choose to wire to. Maybe the following diagram will help. Pins 1 and 2 would be one side of the switch, pins 3 and 4 the other.

[i_am_socket]

NT4 SP6? Seriously? You may want to consider one of the Linux options out there....