Paul and Sabrina's Cheap 3 Phase Inverter (AC Controller) with Field Oriented Control

[ale0502]

Seeing those numbers, I decided that I have to change the motor.
I will use one 4-pole 2.2kW. In which can lower the operating voltage to 380/4 = 95V, which is much closer to the 85Vrms that I have with my 120V batterypack.
In addition, 1400rpm at 50Hz are 200Hz 5600rpm what is not too dangerous like well explain "thingstodo".

I will continue moving forward with the construction of the controller and modifies my new motor.
I will soon come back with questions.

Thank you Paul and thingstodo !!

[MPaulHolmes]

Andrew Clark got his car running with his Nissan Leaf motor and the controller I sent to him!! This is officially the first vehicle test in the known universe. Although, I think that one species that used to beat up the borg, that was from fluidic space on star trek (With the female captain) also tested it in a car:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUio...ature=youtu.be

[freebeard]

That's great. Any info on the car beyond the right front corner?

[Astro]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

...
This is officially the first vehicle test in the known universe. Although, I think that one species that used to beat up the borg, that was from fluidic space on star trek (With the female captain) also tested it in a car

I hope you don't mean the 1936 Ford they found floating in space after following it's ferric-oxide trail? Because that vehicle was still oozing complex hydrocarbons. Of course in 1936 the petrol tanks were much better and the starter batteries were made using a process now lost to us. After 400 years floating in deep space it started right up, blew a little bit of smoke and backfired once or twice but otherwise purred like a kitten. I would like to know the manufacturer of the tyres as they seemed to be correctly inflated. Then the AM radio picked up an SOS signal from an aeroplane that was a quick trip at warp 6 away. They made stuff so much better in the old days.

[thingstodo]

An update for April 11

I used a portion of my pack that was not used before - the bottom 1/3 of the pack at 128V.

I experienced the same problem that I remember from my last posting. The DC motor is sped up, then the AC motor regen slows it down. I can work this up to about 150 amps AC, maybe 200 amps AC. Then the system seems to lose power and the AC regen stops the DC motor.

The next trial, I tripped the 80A DC breaker from the battery pack to the common bus between the DC motor controller and the AC motor controller

I guessed that the voltage might be a problem for control ... so I stopped using the 128V pack and began using batteries 1 - 9, the 72V part of the top 1/3 of my pack - for reasons of other testing this section of the pack has a higher voltage than the other cells 10 - 16.

Each test after this ended in the 80A DC breaker tripping. So my next test will be done with only the 300A fuse as protection. The 80A breaker will be replaced with a GIGAVAC contactor, a 12V battery and a switch.

Files attached. I'm working on the video .. it goes slowly ... too much video, with a lot of talking and not much happening.

I believe that I will go back to the 128V pack, reduce the battery current a bit, and keep the motor in the 2000 - 3000 rpm range so that the AC can capture a decent amount of the energy pushed into the DC motor.

[MPaulHolmes]

Interesting, the DC controller hugs 511 (100% duty) and suddenly loses power when "pulse width" hits 512. It shouldn't be able to hit 512. It must be a boundary issue. I probably need to clamp it above to make sure it doesn't go over 511. So, I bet it's trying to set the PWM duty outside the valid range, and it is causing the microcontroller to shut down. I'll look at the code and see how on earth it's hitting 512.

EDIT: Yep, that was the problem. OK I fixed it. I'll email it to you now.

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

Interesting, the DC controller hugs 511 (100% duty) and suddenly loses power when "pulse width" hits 512.

So the DC controller was at 100% duty cycle? That's kinda strange - I got much more AC regen from a 24V pack of lead-acid cells at 100% duty (because it was a CONTACTOR) and no controller ...

Maybe I am not feeding enough power into the system? The battery voltage is not sagging ... well, it IS sagging but I should be able to push 180+ amps and I was no where near that ...

Changes:
- install new DC firmware
- go back to 128V
- use a contactor instead of the 80A breaker
- be prepared to use 2 battery packs in parallel .. even though I have a weak cell in the middle of the #2 battery pack
- Maybe add a shunt on the battery pack so I can monitor current out of the pack with a voltmeter, and use the clamp-on meter for measuring current between the AC and DC controller busses (AC regen + battery pack amps to the DC controller). I don't think I checked that the DC battery amps matched the clamp-on in the last test

I have received the hall effect sensors that I got from ebay. 24V power supply, but a range of +/- 1000 amps according to the spec sheet ... which did not EXACTLY match the part number ... we'll see what is measured when I get them set up. The output appears to be 0 - 5V.

[MPaulHolmes]

TR=364 CR=364 CF=329 PW=511 HS=0354 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=315 AH=xxx.x
TR=365 CR=365 CF=304 PW=511 HS=0354 RT=0490 FB=00 BA=340 AH=xxx.x
TR=365 CR=365 CF=316 PW=511 HS=0355 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=340 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=329 PW=511 HS=0355 RT=0490 FB=00 BA=291 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=316 PW=511 HS=0356 RT=0490 FB=00 BA=340 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=341 PW=511 HS=0357 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=315 AH=xxx.x
TR=365 CR=365 CF=316 PW=511 HS=0358 RT=0490 FB=00 BA=340 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=341 PW=511 HS=0359 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=328 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=353 PW=511 HS=0359 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=364 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=353 PW=511 HS=0360 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=328 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=304 PW=511 HS=0361 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=352 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=329 PW=511 HS=0361 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=340 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=012 PW=512 HS=0362 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=000 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=365 CF=024 PW=512 HS=0362 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=000 AH=xxx.x

Here's the relevant data. BA is battery amps. CF is current feedback. PW is pulse width (the duty).


The default max motor amps at the moment is set to 100amp (PER IGBT). The scale on the data above for Current Feedback is 0-511 (to make it compatible with RTD Explorer). 512 means 100amp (PER IGBT). So, it says BA (battery amps) got up to 364, which is 364/512*100 = 71amp (per igbt). So the battery amps got up to 213 real life amps. I need to update this to real life amps, like on the AC controller.

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

T
TR=364 CR=364 CF=329 PW=511 HS=0361 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=340 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=364 CF=012 PW=512 HS=0362 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=000 AH=xxx.x
TR=364 CR=365 CF=024 PW=512 HS=0362 RT=0491 FB=00 BA=000 AH=xxx.x

Here's the relevant data. BA is battery amps. CF is current feedback. PW is pulse width (the duty).


The default max motor amps at the moment is set to 100amp (PER IGBT). The scale on the data above for Current Feedback is 0-511 (to make it compatible with RTD Explorer). 512 means 100amp (PER IGBT). So, it says BA (battery amps) got up to 364, which is 364/512*100 = 71amp (per igbt). So the battery amps got up to 213 real life amps. I need to update this to real life amps, like on the AC controller.

I know this will mess up the code a bit ... but a suggestion ...

If you leave rtd-period as the command for logging and leave the output this way (compatible version) then it will still be compatible with RTD Explorer (which I should test since I have a new version that works with Windows 7/8/8.1/10)

And if the new scaling method is used and tied to data-stream-period then the code-base can be brought inline with the AC controller.

Do I need to change a setting to allow a higher DC current? I'm *STILL* trying to test out your hardware over-current on the AC controller! I hope to finish up the testing this weekend so I can get my garage back, and then get the DC controller installed in my Mazda.

[freebeard]

Hitting on All Cylinders .....in the Electric Automobile - EVTV Motor Verks

So I’ve been watching Wolftronix and he is trying to do a couple hundred amps with a DC-DC converter. Me too. But he’s come up with a cunning strategy. Large high current reactors can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. But the Reactor in a Toyota Prius is kind of widely available. They’ve made and wrecked a LOT of TOyota Prius (Priiii???) es. So you can get an inverter for a hundred dollars on eBay.

The CURIOUS thing about the Toyota Prius is that it uses a 200v battery and a 500v motor. To drive it, they actually step up or BOOST the voltage to 500v using a DC-DC converter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8CSRCnCm3M