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Old 03-31-2016, 03:36 PM   #2721 (permalink)
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Old 03-31-2016, 05:58 PM   #2722 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by coleasterling View Post
More black art! Automated brakes with CNC back gauges is the more proper terminology. Still requires significant manual handling of the parts. The normal process would be to punch, laser, or waterjet the flat profiles, then they'd go in the brake with the CNC back gauge set up for whatever operation they are running at the time.
I've run that type of brake before, very nice once it's programmed.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:56 PM   #2723 (permalink)
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:36 PM   #2724 (permalink)
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Question power equation

Hi everyone.
I made ​​some progress on my controller, will soon begin testing !
But now I 'm with my silly questions.
If I use a 120V battery pack means that the three-phase voltage will generate is 60 + 60V is true?
So, for calculating power of my motor, I must use 60 or 120v?

P = sqrt(3) * V * I * cos (fi)

thanks!
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:05 AM   #2725 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ale0502 View Post
Hi everyone.
I made ​​some progress on my controller, will soon begin testing !
But now I 'm with my silly questions.
If I use a 120V battery pack means that the three-phase voltage will generate is 60 + 60V is true?
So, for calculating power of my motor, I must use 60 or 120v?

P = sqrt(3) * V * I * cos (fi)

thanks!
Sometimes it's easier, for me, to think about DC out of the battery pack. P = 120V * I. If you use the voltage and current going into your controller and subtract a bit for losses (mostly from the voltage drop across the IGBTs) it's a good estimate.

I have problems with the cos (fi) part where where cos(fi) gives you the portion of the current that is doing work. The angles are the challenge to calculate so that's where Paul gets into the complex math.

At work my instruments give me RMS current and RMS voltage. I use a graph to estimate the power factor based on motor size, and that's how I come up with the power the motor is putting out. It's a bit .. isolated .. from the raw signals that Paul gets from the hall effect sensors and voltage sensors ...
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:46 AM   #2726 (permalink)
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I always do:
batteryPackVoltage / sqrt(3) * PeakPhaseCurrent * sin(0)*sin(0) +
batteryPackVoltage / sqrt(3) * PeakPhaseCurrent * sin(120)*sin(120) +
batteryPackVoltage / sqrt(3) * PeakPhaseCurrent * sin(240)*sin(240) =

batteryPackVoltage * sqrt(3) / 2 * PeakPhaseCurrent.

Or,

batteryPackVoltage * sqrt(3/2) * RMSPhaseCurrent. Then there's that stupid cos(fi) thing to throw in too. At rated load, cos(fi) is usually around 0.80 or something for an induction motor, and it's like 0.95 or something for a permanent magnet motor. So

3 phase power = batteryPackVoltage * sqrt(3/2) * RMSPhaseCurrent * cos(fi).
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:58 AM   #2727 (permalink)
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My motor plate said 4Kw , 380V , 8.3A , cos(fi) = 0.88
Thats values are at 50Hz.

Paul saids:
3 phase power = batteryPackVoltage * sqrt(3/2) * RMSPhaseCurrent * cos(fi)

How can I apply that equation to the original parameters of my motor?

4Kw = batteryPackVoltage * sqrt(3/2) * RMSPhaseCurrent * 0,88

380V its rms voltage, so i must use 380*sqrt(2)???
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Old 04-01-2016, 01:21 PM   #2728 (permalink)
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4000watt = batteryPackVoltage * sqrt(3/2) * 8.3 * 0.88

So, batteryPackVoltage = 447 volts in that case would make 4kW real output power of the motor, assuming that the motor was 100% efficient. But let's plug in their value of battery pack, and maybe that will give us an idea of motor efficiency too:

4000watt = 380 * sqrt(2) * sqrt(3/2) * 8.3 * 0.88 * efficiency.
4000watt = 380 * sqrt(3) * 8.3 * 0.88 * efficiency. HEY!!! After all that stuff I went through, we finally get to your formula:
P = sqrt(3) * V * I * cos (fi), with an efficiency of

efficiency = 83%

haha
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Old 04-01-2016, 03:43 PM   #2729 (permalink)
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If i calculate:
380V / 8,3A = 45,7ohms (resistance of coil)
so:
(120V / sqrt(2)) / 45,7ohms = 1,85A (new current with 120V)

My motor is a 2 poles, if I re-connect the series coils all in parallel, need only the middle of voltage. So the power is:

P = (2*120V) * sqrt(2) * sqrt(3/2) * 1,85A * 0,88 * 0,83
P = 562w

If run it up to 200Hz (with Paul´s controller), can give me approximately 2,2Kw.

It´s that correct?
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Old 04-01-2016, 05:05 PM   #2730 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ale0502 View Post
If i calculate:
380V / 8,3A = 45,7ohms (resistance of coil)
so:
(120V / sqrt(2)) / 45,7ohms = 1,85A (new current with 120V)
The impedance (resistance plus reactance from the inductor in the motor coil) calculates to 45,7 ohms at 50 Hz. The resistance by itself should be a minor part of that. The impedance rises as the frequency rises.

Quote:
My motor is a 2 poles, if I re-connect the series coils all in parallel, need only the middle of voltage. So the power is:

P = (2*120V) * sqrt(2) * sqrt(3/2) * 1,85A * 0,88 * 0,83
P = 562w
If the coils will draw 1,85 amps (with some assumptions, at 50 Hz) when in series, R + R, then each coil should draw 3,70 amps with connected in parallel as R // R, 7,40 amps total, so you should see much more power than you show.

P = 120V * sqrt(2) * sqrt(3/2) * ((2 *1,85A) + (2 * 1,85A)) * 0,88 * 0,83
P = 1123w

Quote:
If run it up to 200Hz (with Paul´s controller), can give me approximately 2,2Kw.
I don't think you will be able to get 7,4 amps into the motor with only 120V at 200 Hz, since the impedance will be at least 3 times as high.

A 2-pole motor at about 2950 rpm, 50 Hz would be spinning at over 11,000 rpm at 200 Hz. This may be dangerous! I would not personally go over about 5000 rpm .. and I'd test it the first time, on a bench instead of inside the car, with a sturdy barrier between me and the motor, and no one near the motor.

For lower speed use, you can get *MUCH* more than 7,4 amps for the 2 coils in parallel. If the motor is rated for 8,3 amps, you should be able to run twice that, 16,6 amps, with the coils in parallel. And it should run all day without overheating. From experience, induction motors willl take at least 3.5 times rated current for short periods of acceleration.

Using this calculator Online calculator: Power into Torque and vise versa with 2950 rpm, 4 kw

I get the rated torque out of your motor to be 12.9 N m

With about 3.5 times the rated current (from experience) you can get about 3 times the rated torque (this is a rule of thumb). So 58 amps should get you about 39 N m of torque until you run out of battery voltage. But with a first gear of 12:1 or so, you get over 400 N m of torque .. that should accelerate your vehicle quite nicely.

When Paul's controller can no longer push 58 amps since the battery is only 120V, your torque will drop and you will accelerate more slowly as you speed up. As long as you are below the rated current of 16.66 on your re-wound motor you should not overheat your motor.

If you are using a transmission on your vehicle, changing gears should let you get up to reasonable speed.

I hope to do some testing on a bit larger motor - 5 HP (3.7 KW) 2 pole, 460V motor - to verify the rule of thumb .. 3.5X current gives 3X torque. But that won't be until September or October (or maybe later!)

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