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Old 08-28-2016, 11:15 AM   #73 (permalink)
Daschicken
EcoModding flying lizard
 
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 743

Cibbie - '88 Honda CBR 250R
Motorcycle
90 day: 48.49 mpg (US)

Rarity - '06 Honda Accord EX V6
Team Honda
90 day: 29.88 mpg (US)

Baby viff - '86 Honda VFR 400R
Motorcycle
90 day: 42.15 mpg (US)

Latios - '08 Suzuki SV650SF
Motorcycle
90 day: 64.56 mpg (US)

Mazda 3 - '14 Mazda 3 i Sport
90 day: 43.25 mpg (US)
Thanks: 618
Thanked 263 Times in 175 Posts
More mod plans and an update on Rarity

Regarding the rear undertray, I jacked up the car, looked and thought for a while, and ended up doing nothing. There is not much left to cover thanks to the rear diffuser, and the dual exhausts. Also, I want to leave an escape route for air trapped above the undertray, I need to make some panels to block air from getting in there.

Speaking of undertray, I am planning some flow management under there. I'll be putting on dual layer side skirts like bajoos's, and I will direct air away from the exhaust channel, which may even promote evacuation of engine bay air, enhancing cooling.
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I made some (planning) progress on my proposed power steering delete. While drooling over pictures of the J25, I saw that it had two accessory belts, one was dedicated only to power steering, the other was for AC and alternator. That alone doesn't help me, since my car only has one belt for everything, but I did see that the tensioner setup was the same on the J25. Previously, I had worried that the tensioner setup would not be compatible to bypassing the power steering, now I see that it is possible. I only have to convince my parents...

Here is the J25
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And J30
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Lastly, a base plate is in the works. It should be really easy to make, so I might make it before anything else. The only things concerning me are the 3rd brake light visibility with the top panel in place, and how easy it will be to remove without damage if I use 3M double sided sticky tape.
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Now for the bad news.

Rarity's hydraulic clutch is dying. At high rpms (6000), the clutch loses pressure and 3/4 of the clutch's travel turns into freeplay, the last 1/4 is rock solid and the clutch doesn't pull in enough to get into gear. It usually take about 15 seconds for the pressure to return at low rpm, until then I can't shift. Last time I drove it, the clutch engagement point changed from it's usual 3/4 up to about 1/2 up. My dad's honda did the same thing when the clutch master cylinder was dying.

This is a known issue on my accord forum, what's worse is that there is no known fix. People have replaced their clutches and still had this problem! I'm 99% sure this is a hydraulic issue, so I said **** it, buy everything. New clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and all new hoses on the way. If this doesn't fix it, I don't know what i'm going to do. I was on my way to the dragstrip for the first time when this issue showed itself, thanks to that, I didn't get to drag race my car. I was PISSED. This problem ruins all enjoyment from driving this car, I can't drive it hard, and even at lower rpms there are still some symptoms.
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Best trip in V6: 52.0
Best tank in V6: 46.0
Best tank in Mazda: 49.9
Best tank in CBR: 61.3
Best tank in SV: 83.9

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