From Drag civic to Eco fighter

[foxhound]

yeah basjoos i was hoping you would chime in some time. ive been meaning to find you but ran out of time. like jmpvw73 was saying no disrepect. i understand the fast and cheap completely. just want to take some awhile and smooth this badboy out. cost on my end really not worried about it. i know im not going to get all of it back. i just wanted to completely invest into this project to see how far i could push it. really been think about this front end design this week. so my friend the internet has helped me find so pictures.
ok anybody please help ive been trying to figure out how to paste my personnal pictures to the page and havent figured it out yet. i can only do it to the attachments.

[basjoos]

It'll be interesting to see what kind of mileage you could get from a smooth and curve optimized version of my car, just like the speed difference you see between Van's RV-6 aluminum and a Glasair III fiberglass kitplane.

But for my daily driver which needs to be back on the road quickly after being damaged, metal construction works best since it doesn't have the temperature and humidity workability restrictions of working with epoxy (to say nothing of the chemical odor). In the over 150,000 miles I have driven this car since aeromodding it, I have hit 2 deer, a raccoon and a sign post. Afterwards I was able to quickly repair the damage despite the weather and outside temps (I don't have a garage). Sheetmetal can be worked on when its 15 degrees F outside in the winter or 90 degrees out and drizzling in the summer, a freedom I wouldn't have if working with epoxy. And once the last pop rivet is in place, its ready to roll, without all of the lengthy curing and finishing times required of epoxy. So for rough and ready work, metal is best, but for optimum performance you can't beat fiberglass.

[skyl4rk]

I don't think it is absolutely necessary to get all of your money back in FE savings. I see modding and hypermiling as a performance sport, a challenge. Yes, I am into frugality, and I appreciate the reduced impact on the environment, especially if many others eventually follow suit and drive efficient cars in efficient ways.

I don't mind spending some money that I may not make back in FE, to put together a car that is more efficient than others. It is an engineering challenge.

[foxhound]

posting a few pics that ive been looking at. trying to pull ideas together.got to go home this weekend and work on the car. all the parts came in that i ordered. cleaned enginebay and driveline. got it all hooked up except radiator and thanks to someone else a coolant temp sensor. here are some pics. first one was from this weekend

[jedi_sol]

To put pictures directly into your post.

1) upload your images to a photo hosting website (flickr, photobucket, etc...)

2)copy and past the "IMG Code" provided to you for that picture
IMG]http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/jedikn1te/car/Kammbackv2tufttesting.jpg[/IMG

then it should show up like this

[some_other_dave]

Looks like a run-of-the-mill D16A6 in the first pic. Not great for fuel efficiency, not bad either. The gearing sucks for FE though. (Trust me on that!!)

The front of the white Rex looks decent. Tough to say about the rest of the car because you can't see it behind the door and the guy.

The yellow race car doesn't look to be built for top-end speed. They want downforce, because that helps lap times more than low drag.

I don't know what to say about the silver Rex. I somehow doubt that the body mods are all that effective in reducing drag, but I could easily be wrong on that. At the very least, they should have covered the rear wheels in preference to the front. Doing both would be cool, but I don't know if reducing the drag from the spinning wheel is worth the extra frontal area and extra sharp curves and such.

The Prius is a Prius...

I would suggest a body that at least roughly follows the teardrop template seen elsewhere on this BBS. Make the upper part of the body narrow smoothly (in a teardrop fashion) as it goes back. The 1st-gen Insight and the old MX-3 do this to some extent, and there's a newish Volvo out there that does as well. You still keep the rear track where it is, but you can get better aero on the top ~third-ish of the body.

In general, the rear of the car is more important for aero than the front. But the front is important for looking aero, so yo probably won't want to ignore any part of the car.

-soD

[foxhound]

jedi sol thanks for the tip. sod its a d15b8 out of a 92 cx. throttle body is kind of a give away only fit two fingers in it. the silver crx has a nsx driveline in it. kind of retarded.

In general, the rear of the car is more important for aero than the front. But the front is important for looking aero, so yo probably won't want to ignore any part of the car.

i dont think that is exactly true. cause if the car had a front like a wall but a tail like a boattail. wouldnt do that great. i feel the front is as important as the back they both serve important purpose. and yes you are right about not leaving anything untouched. i finally got back home from my deployment. and i have been ripping into this car. dizzy is stopping me from running. found a few problems so far. bolt for the control arm through the subframe broke the nutplate. and somebody cut the subframe with a sawsall. got a new subframe this weekend. when i put the shifter found that the car had a h-swap cause the shifter tunnel is amazing hacked up. also found the car had a minor front end collision. ive already started fixing. im going to post a new parts list form this week and last week. man its massive and expensive as hell. and current pics. i will post back ina few hours.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by foxhound

i dont think that is exactly true. cause if the car had a front like a wall but a tail like a boattail. wouldnt do that great.

It's been proven to be true.
It'd do better than if the front was streamlined, and the rear squared off like a wall.

i feel the front is as important as the back they both serve important purpose.

It's counter-intuitive, but test prove otherwise.



Adding a front fairing instead of a blunt nose, cd goes from 0.25 to 0.23
Adding a rear fairing, it drops from 0.25 to 0.14 - only dropping an additional 0.02 by also adding the front fairing.

[99kleansi]

Originally Posted by jedi_sol

He'll make up the $1K EVENTUALLY. It took me 86 fills (or 2yrs) to save almost $900.

I see you have an Integra Si... What is that?

[jedi_sol]

Del sol in si trim with an integra GSR motor, from my ricer days.