Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller - Page 489 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

MPaulHolmes · 06-20-2011, 11:50 PM

rkcim, I did an AC controller with a microchip dspic. They are like 10 times more capable than a regular old atmel atmega168, but are a bit of a mess to set up.

Jack: Each time I leave for 5 minutes to go to the bathroom, I come back and you have built a whole electric motor cycle, or liquid cooling system, or super fancy igbt controller. hahaha Awesome!

dneale · 06-22-2011, 06:35 PM

Hey Camaro,

Thanks for posting that code. Can you PM me (I don't have enough posts). I may have a couple interrupt questions.

Thanks,

Dave

DJBecker · 06-22-2011, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

rkcim, I did an AC controller with a microchip dspic. They are like 10 times more capable than a regular old atmel atmega168, but are a bit of a mess to set up.

We've switched over to the STM32 series, with the STM32f105 installed on our current board.

They give you another factor of 10 in speed, and probably an additional factor of 10 in pain to program and work around the bugs. But they are great for low power usage and functionality, with up to three 1Msps ADCs, DMA to use that high sample rate, dual CAN bus, 32 bit single cycle multiply and hardware (multicycle) divide. The current one on our board is 72MHz, and we can switch to the new 120MHz clock ones if we ever need it.

voltmatic automaton · 06-23-2011, 10:10 PM

a quick question,

are the lead lengths important in the LEDs? I was hoping to place the LEDs on wires and put them on the outside of my enclosure so i can see whats going on.

But I don't want to mess with it if the length of the pathways is important.

MPaulHolmes · 06-23-2011, 10:17 PM

LED lead lengths don't matter at all. It actually makes much more sense to solder wires in, and then have the LEDs where you can actually see them.

squiggles · 06-25-2011, 02:28 AM

Or you could use "light pipes" like these 749-PLP2-1200 from mouser.

ianbartie · 06-25-2011, 03:49 AM

I have noticed a very faint amount of interference in the FM radio from the controller. As soon as the mosfets start to switch, it starts. It does not get any louder nor does it change in pitch.
The controller is in an aluminim box.
Any suggestions on how to stop it coming through the radio?

squiggles · 06-25-2011, 05:24 AM

Make sure your radio has very good electrical connections.
The optimum would be to have a fused +12 and a GND lead running directly to the battery. The one problem with this is that your accessory switch would not turn off the radio.
Also check that your antenna connection is in good order.

Mount the cougar as far away from the radio as possible.

ianbartie · 06-25-2011, 06:20 AM

The radio plugs into the original wiring harness.
Wiring direct to the battery is not an option.
Cougar is mounted right at the front of the car.
Antenna is on the roof at the rear.
Antenna cable has what looks like a booster in line. Is a silver device about 80mm long & is powered. It is original.

dave koller · 06-25-2011, 01:03 PM

Disconnect the antenna, if possible, turn on the radio and see what you you hear then. If nothing it is coming via RF harmonics thru the antenna. If you hear noise then assume it is coming thru power leads and may need filtering at the power inputs. The inline "booster" may need filtered power but that should be discovered by the disconnect of the antenna. Ain't it fun