101.5 MPG on my 2003 Ninja 250!!!

[theycallmeebryan]

Originally Posted by Grant-53

The lack of adjustment on motorcycles can create problems for back muscles and sore wrists. On a high performance bicycle body position is critical. One of the best books on cycle fit is "The Custom Bicycle" by Michael J. Koln and Denise M. de la Rosa. Bicycle setup is covered in Chapter 20 (pg. 187 to 219). Check scripd.com - Presentations Resources and Information. for a download or Amazon.com for paperback. The other source for positioning in the aero tuck is "Zinn & the Art of Triathalon Bikes" by Lennard Zinn. See Chapter 3 (pg. 41 to 71). On a motorcycle there is the seat height and the handle bar position to modify. A 7/8" diameter tube fits both a motorcycle and a bicycle so there some variety. Note both Craig Vetter and Alan Smith made changes to their handle bar geometry.

Thanks for the link.

Yup, if i made any adjustments, it would be to raise the bars a good 4-6 inches so that I am sitting more upright and comfortable.

[Grant-53]

Make the bike to fit the way you ride and design the fairing accordingly.

The Buick GN TH400 may have been modified with a high stall torque convertor.

[theycallmeebryan]

Originally Posted by Grant-53

Make the bike to fit the way you ride and design the fairing accordingly.

The Buick GN TH400 may have been modified with a high stall torque convertor.

3500 to be exact. I need that much to spin a 76mm dual ball bearing turbo with a 3.8L

The GN is more of a toy than anything, not something i drive often. There's not even an engine in the car right now!

[Grant-53]

An axle swap from 4.11 to 3.08 and some aeromods might make it a great touring car.

[theycallmeebryan]

Originally Posted by Grant-53

An axle swap from 4.11 to 3.08 and some aeromods might make it a great touring car.

It has a 3.42 rear.

[offalot]

I started reading this post last week and was impressed, so with it as motivation I tried applying some of your tactics to this last tank.
I ride an 07 KLR650 not the best eco bike as it is probably one of the least aero bike on the road. I think the EPA is about 50 mpg onthis bike although according to a lot of guys on the KLR site that is even hard to achieve (probably because the dualsport nature of the bike many miles are logged offroad) I was getting on average 55mpg as I do drive semi consciously. Yesterday I filled up and saw I got 67mpg! not bad
What I did and didn't do:
I shut down the engine while coating and sitting at stoplights, rather then throttling down I coasted down, I used my home made cruise control (throttle lock)a bit. i brought my speed down a little on the freeway. I couldn't tame it down too much on the freeway as it seemed that if I went 55 I would get murdered, so I hung around 65, also I think I have the same problem with crouching, back starts hurting.
Conclusion: Using a gas price of $3.75, what seems average for the last couple months. the difference between 55mpg and 67 is $0.0681 and $0.0556 c per mile or on a tankfull, which I usually get 250 miles, $17.03 and $13.90. I saved $3.13
I must say however this tank lacked a large amount of the fun factor. I am no squid by any stretch but I do like to throttle around corners and feel comfortable in fast traffic. So I think I will employ quite a bit of what I learned here, mixed with the ol spirited riding and be happy with high 50's/low 60's.

[cvetter]

I invite you to meet us at the AMA Vintage Days Vetter Fuel Challenge July 20 this summer.

A good ride, smart people and cutting edge eco-bikes.

Craig Vetter

[offalot]

Originally Posted by cvetter

I invite you to meet us at the AMA Vintage Days Vetter Fuel Challenge July 20 this summer.

A good ride, smart people and cutting edge eco-bikes.

Craig Vetter

You can bet on it Craig. Hopefully I'll have my SR185 done by then. Thanks.

PS Bryan, Not too much of a domestic guy but always had a soft spot for the GN's.

[theycallmeebryan]

I have some sad news.

July 6th while at work, my Ninja was backed into by one of my coworkers and knocked over onto the kickstand (left) side. The left side of my bike has some significant damage now.

With close to 30,000 miles on the bike, and considering its 10 years old, my insurance company isn't offering me all that much for the bike as a total loss settlement.

I'm kind of on the fence with what i should do. I have 2 options.

Option 1: Accept their total loss settlement and they take the bike. I move on and try to find another bike.

Option 2: They'll give me 30% less than the total loss settlement, I get to keep the bike, but the bike will now have a salvage title. In order to make the bike road legal again, I have to document that i fixed the bike and pay (100$) to have it inspected.

So, what needs to be fixed?

-Front fairing has 2 cracks in it and a couple scuffs (one is major). Could probably be repaired. (this is going to be the $$$$ killer).
-Front fairing stay is broken, needs to be replaced
-Front fender has a scuff on the left side.
-Left front blinker is broken, needs to be replaced
-Dent in gas tank (left handlebar went into it). Just a dent, the paint is still intact. I could live with it i guess.
-Handlebars are tweaked, but that's a pretty easy fix as long as the fork tubes aren't bent (just loosen the triple clamps and realign).
-Left foot peg snapped in half, needs to be replaced
-The shifter is bent, could probably bend back, but might as well replace
-Left muffler dented and bent, could probably bend it back and use it, but would like to replace.

Just unsure of what i want to do.

[Grant-53]

I knew a guy who had his BMW R100T mangled by an earthmover. He decided to accept the total settlement from the insurance and then bought back the bike for parts. The engine has a projected life of 90-100K miles and the older Ninja is in some ways more desireable for mpg than the new models. The best bet is to make a list of costs for each option. Compare the cost of a rebuild effort versus buying another used bike with the settlement money. There may be someone looking for a donor bike for a project since the frame, engine and transmission are in good condition.
I might be inclined to build a whole new front fairing (see low&slow) if that is the most expensive part to repair.