110V ceramic heater elements

[mora]

Good info.

So I suppose maths go like this:

P=power, U=voltage, I=current, R=resistance

P=U*I -> I=P/U -> 1500W / 220V = 6,82A
R=U/I -> R = 220V / 6,82A = 32,26 Ohm (max. resistance I assume, for that voltage)

then, if we use 96V instead of 220V
I=U/R -> 96V / 32,26 Ohm = 2,98A
P=U*I -> 96V * 2,98A = 286W

Oh. For 220V element and 110V operating voltage power would be 375W, 1/4 of full power.

But then. 1500W 110V element with 96V:

R -> ~8 Ohm
P -> 1150W

Much better. One element produces more power than two 220V put in paraller. Two units provide twice power if put paraller.

[Ryland]

Buy a 220v ceramic heater and take it appart, you will find a ceramic chunk in there with heating wire wrapped around it, messure how long that wire is, divide it by 220 and multiply it by 96 and that will tell you how long of chunks of wire you need to cut, the ceramic acts as a high temp heat sink to help spread the heat so you can pull more heat out of a smaller area.

[mora]

Last time I opened one I saw no wire. It's a metal-like element. Do you mean I should cut the element?

[Piwoslaw]

Originally Posted by Ryland

Buy a 220v ceramic heater and take it appart, you will find a ceramic chunk in there with heating wire wrapped around it, messure how long that wire is, divide it by 220 and multiply it by 96 and that will tell you how long of chunks of wire you need to cut, the ceramic acts as a high temp heat sink to help spread the heat so you can pull more heat out of a smaller area.

So, if you solder both ends together, then connect that to one lead of your power source and the other lead in the middle of that wrapped wire, you will have two 110V volt heaters in parallel, right? Which would be exactly what Moro is looking for?

[Automcdonough]

with how cheap normal 110v heaters are, it wouldn't be worth messing with that (possibly causing a weak connection).

Amazon.com: Lasko 754200 Ceramic Heater with Adjustable Thermostat: Kitchen & Dining: Reviews, Prices & more
They won't ship to you??

I had no idea 110v was not available in Finland, seems so standard. Even in Europe it's 50Hz but at least it's there. Around here you could get one of these for $5 at a garage sale.

Have you checked out the inline water heaters? With one of those you can use the car's original heater coil setup. This might give you an idea:
EV Source - 12V Electric Heaters

Prices there seem at least 3x what they should be but they look ready to fly. If you go that route then check out fish/marine supply stores.. but there will be a time lag, personally I'd go with the ceramic instant-on.

[Ryland]

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw

So, if you solder both ends together, then connect that to one lead of your power source and the other lead in the middle of that wrapped wire, you will have two 110V volt heaters in parallel, right? Which would be exactly what Moro is looking for?

Yes, only don't solder, crimp as solder will melt and as others have stated you would want a little less then half the element as you are running 96v instead of 110/120 (half of the 220v his heater is designed for) so you have 2.2 times to much element.
Last fall at the Electric Auto Association meeting they were talking about adding electric heat to electric cars and a number of people who were running at 72v had cut their heaters appart like this and said it worked well, one who was running 96v and had a 120v charger had left his heater together so he could heat while charging and while driving with the same heater.

[mora]

Originally Posted by Automcdonough

Amazon.com: Lasko 754200 Ceramic Heater with Adjustable Thermostat: Kitchen & Dining: Reviews, Prices & more

Funny thing, I was browins amazon.com and looking at the very same product you linked at the same time as I received a thread reply notification. I found the same product from amazon.co.uk, which is located in europe, but they carry only 220V version. Thanks for the suggestion.

I'll see if amazon.com ships to me. Would be good if they did.

Originally Posted by Automcdonough

Have you checked out the inline water heaters? With one of those you can use the car's original heater coil setup.

Yes, I've taken a look at those. Heat isn't as instant as with electric heaters and there is a need for pump too. I bet that system is more inefficient overall when compared to electric heater.

[mora]

Yes, they ship to my address. With expense of 83$. Ouch. No deal, at least for now.

I placed a wanted-ad of two elements to sales section. Link to ad here. I'll try to find someone to find cheap heaters, disassemble them and send only elements to me. Should be way cheaper even if I paid some extra for it.

[dday]

Originally Posted by mora

Could someone of you living in the US get me pair of really cheap ceramic heaters, disassemble them and then send ceramic elements to me? Way cheaper than shipping two full heaters, which are going to get taken apart anyway.

Yes I would be willing to help you out. I can get you a couple of heaters take them apart and send you what you need.

If your willing to foot the bill for the heaters and shipping.

[Niner]

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw

So, if you solder both ends together, then connect that to one lead of your power source and the other lead in the middle of that wrapped wire, you will have two 110V volt heaters in parallel, right? Which would be exactly what Moro is looking for?

You don't even have to cut the element. Just solder a tap into the center of the wrapped wire. That gives you a power feed, then ground both outer ends of the element. Instant ~110 heaters, in parallel! Well, probably not perfect, but since you're giving them well less than 110v, a little bit off on either side will be ok - the side that's shorter will just operate closer to the rated current and the longer side will run slightly under power, and not quite as hot.

I played a bit with heating wire back when I rode a bike - I made some gloves that had bits of heating wire glued to them (using the puffy fabric "paint" you see at craft stores). They would heat my hands up pretty well, but I didn't get enough wire in the finger areas to really do what I wanted. Of course, risk with 12v is pretty low, but by keeping everything in the stock case and just adding a new power lead, you reduce risks.