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Old 07-13-2014, 04:50 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I figured out how to do it.

First it is glass beads, very non agressive stuff, nothing like sand blasting.

On my old 49 Plymouth the vent window handles where chromed pot metal, in bad looking shape. I had nothing to loose so I tried the glass bead and it was amazing how good they looked.

Next I had a 1903 Springfield original Warner Swasey sniper (first US issued scoped sniper rifle ever made, WW1 era) reciever that had been chromed and converted to a drill rifle. I used the same glass bead blaster to remove the chrome from the reciever, including the brass under the chrome.

IT TOOK 3 HOURS!

Based on those experiences and knowing that the chrome is never going to be perfect with some scattered light pitting that can not be cleaned up, I used the glass beads to clean primarily the spokes and hub, with a very quick longer distance shot at the rims, inside and outside which almost instantly removes the surface rust. Then I can polish the chrome and wax it or shoot some clear engine paint on it depending on how good the chrome looks.

My goal is preservation over restoration and this method stops the deterioration in it's tracks while retaining the condition without rechroming or repainting, both of which are expensive and a waste of money you will never recover when you sell the vehicle.

Old chrome, before the age of computers was of a quality you can not get anymore. The thickness is enough that you can "get away" with some serious abrasive cleaning and still have enough chrome left to really look good.

It's almost an art and a gamble combined.

I could buy new rims from Thailand with spokes and hubs for less than 40 each, but nothing, in my opinion beats the original parts. Thay have been there close to 50 years.

regards
Mech


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Old 07-14-2014, 05:02 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Got the tires, tubes, and rim strips today. Installed them on the rims and got the rear rim-tire on the bike with most of the other stuff. I'll finish up the battery and front wheel-tire tomorrow and maybe take it to the dealership to pull the flywheel. The points and condenser should be here tomorrow or Wednesday. Maybe back on the road by the end of the week. Hope it runs right after all that. I should have everything covered, but we'll see.

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Old 07-14-2014, 09:24 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Brother #4 called me. The points and condenser are here. I guess I'll load it in the truck tomorrow and get the flywheel pulled then get the points and condenser in and get everything set up.

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Old 07-16-2014, 08:01 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Points and condenser were the wrong parts. I'm thinking about just upgrading the whole setup with a CDI with enhanced charging system. I'm right at $400 total and this will cost me another $150.

Honda 50 Super Cub C100 CA100 C105 C105T C110 CDI Electronic Ignition Magneto | eBay

The positive part of this is it will eliminate the two most likely breakdown components, so I think I'll get it on the way from Malaysia. Seller feedback is100%.

Thoughts?

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Old 07-16-2014, 08:09 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Might want to check out/join Yahoo Groups Classic Pushrod Honda 50's- lots of experience there re: fixing 'em up, who supplies decent parts and who doesn't, etc.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:38 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I read through the sellers feedback and 100% over close to 7000 sales is hard to beat, including sales of the "pointless" upgrade. I have read through many sites about the Super Cub but find that since US sales ended in 1967 while world wide sales went ballistic, that solutions may be found outside of the US.

I like the idea of replacing the charging system (outside of the regulator) and a new coil is fairly cheap. Outside of that the selenium regulator would be a potential candidate for replacement.

Thanks for the advice Frank.


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Old 07-16-2014, 12:59 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:07 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Nice looking bike old mechanic!
I have a similar bike and I would like to ask
Since the oil pump is not working when the engine is shut,
Does EOC wears out semi automatic transmission( clutch and gear)?
Is clutch and gears sinked in engine oil? Or they are lubricated throw the oil pump?

Sorry for messing with your thread,but I didn't want to start a new one ,for just a silly question.
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:29 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimhs View Post
Nice looking bike old mechanic!
I have a similar bike and I would like to ask
Since the oil pump is not working when the engine is shut,
Does EOC wears out semi automatic transmission( clutch and gear)?
Is clutch and gears sinked in engine oil? Or they are lubricated throw the oil pump?

Sorry for messing with your thread,but I didn't want to start a new one ,for just a silly question.
Thanks
Not sure about that particular setup but scooter clutch are engine speed actuated but won't disengage above a particular vehicle speed (I assume it is to provide some amount of engine breaking).
Those are dry items.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:30 PM   #40 (permalink)
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This is a wet clutch which works both centrifugally and manually. Pushing the shifter (rocker front and back) disengages the clutch and selects the gears. If you leave it in gear then it will idle in that gear until you give it some throttle and then it will accelerate.

Heel push=1st gear
Toe push=neutral
2nd toe push=2nd gear
3rd toe push=3rd gear

Pushing the gear lever disengages the clutch which also works centrifugally when you do not push the lever regardless of the gear chosen.

So the clutch is both centrifugal and manual.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Super_Cub

regards
Mech


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