1971 Corvette EV Conversion - Page 8 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

mechman600 · 01-30-2012, 11:50 PM

Awesome project! Subscribed.

adamj12b · 01-31-2012, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Good update. Nice to see this going again.

Well it never stopped.

I just am horrible at updating my thread. I will be posting more today about what has happened since all of that work.

Update Part 2 to come.

-Adam

1-ev.com · 02-01-2012, 06:40 PM

Great Job Adam!!!

Planecrazy · 02-01-2012, 06:53 PM

Perhaps this is a stupid question, Adam, but after spending all that $$ to have the frame straightened, didn't all the seam welding throw it off again? I hope not!

Regards,

adamj12b · 02-01-2012, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Planecrazy

Perhaps this is a stupid question, Adam, but after spending all that $$ to have the frame straightened, didn't all the seam welding throw it off again? I hope not!

Regards,

Hello Steve,

Thats not a stupid question. The frame was welded in small sections jumping all around to keep the warping to a minimum. If I did one side all at once it would have warped.

-Adam

eco_generator · 02-02-2012, 02:07 AM

Nice thread. Not to mention one of my all-time favorite looking cars.

NHRABill · 02-02-2012, 02:57 AM

Tough to read that you used a 71

BTW you will probably need to rebuild your half shafts and center diff if you haven't already I exploded several of them back in my day I have a nice set of Eaton unit with 3.90 gear that has lasted in the back of my 75 after slowing my car down some. I was stubborn wanting to keep the stock rear setup using a 420lbs. composite rear spring (stock is around 200) Then again you being electric who knows. I understand instant torque and all which should mean that when I was running a measly 435lbs. at the tire I cracked those gears like I was dropping an iphone in a blender. I stepped up and ran over 835lbs. of torque on alcohol and popped 1 Auburn unit and slowed down since and still running the eaton with around 550 torque at the wheels now.

Half shafts, yeah those will break first, gone through 6+ over the years usually driver side.

Now for Safety:
Use a lakewood bellhouse if you want to keep your legs and reinforce the drivers seat. trans blanket also advisable. The aluminium stocker is a joke like trying to deflect a bullet with a piece of paper add in the fiberglass floor. I know this will be a show car but many people lost toes or legs when that trans clutch goes kaboom. Yup blew that up also except I had the Super T-10 in mine swapped over to a M-22 rock crusher and exploded that until I did the smart thing and built a th400 up to handle the power.

don't want to sound like a Jerk but the reason I parked my Vette 5 years ago is because I wanted to see my little girl grow up almost lost leg after trans explosion had fuel tank ruptured when a half shaft blew and grafted in metal to the drivers floor to remount my seat so next time the piddly seat bolts don't snap when the parachute opens. Parts break especially on a 40 year old car. Be safe

adamj12b · 02-02-2012, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eco_generator

Nice thread. Not to mention one of my all-time favorite looking cars.

Thanks!

Its also one of my favorite cars. I was really excited to have the opportunity to bring this car back from the grave and give it its second chance.

-Adam

adamj12b · 02-02-2012, 09:06 AM

Hello,

Thanks for all the advice. I do really appreciate the view of somebody who has raced these cars.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NHRABill

Tough to read that you used a 71

Why is this? Is it because of its classic nature or the aerodynamics? The car was not worth much except for some parts when I started. Currently with the work dont with restoration, its worth alot more.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NHRABill

BTW you will probably need to rebuild your half shafts and center diff if you haven't already I exploded several of them back in my day I have a nice set of Eaton unit with 3.90 gear that has lasted in the back of my 75 after slowing my car down some. I was stubborn wanting to keep the stock rear setup using a 420lbs. composite rear spring (stock is around 200) Then again you being electric who knows. I understand instant torque and all which should mean that when I was running a measly 435lbs. at the tire I cracked those gears like I was dropping an iphone in a blender. I stepped up and ran over 835lbs. of torque on alcohol and popped 1 Auburn unit and slowed down since and still running the eaton with around 550 torque at the wheels now.

Half shafts, yeah those will break first, gone through 6+ over the years usually driver side.

I have already checked out the diff and like the previous owner said, it didn't have many miles on it. It looked new inside so i cleaned it up and replaced the seals while I had it apart. So you broke one of these rear ends with only 435 ft-lbs at the wheels?? Now you have me worried. What size tires were you running? Im planing to run a 275-40/17.

I am running a composite spring in the back to lower the weight and hold the weight of the rear battery pack. It will weigh in at about 280lbs which is about 140lbs heavier then the gas tank full of gas.

I will have a look into the Eaton units. Are they just a gear set or a full housing?

As for the half shafts, both have been cleaned and visually inspected and look great. They got some nice paint and new heavy duty u-joints. same with the drive shaft. The thing that is worrying me with the drive shaft is the 71 has a 1330 u-joint on the diff and the 69 M20 that im using uses a 1310 u-joint. So I ended up having to get a conversion joint for the diff end of the car. That 1310 u-joint is tiny and im worried about it...

Quote:

Originally Posted by NHRABill

Now for Safety:
Use a lakewood bellhouse if you want to keep your legs and reinforce the drivers seat. trans blanket also advisable. The aluminium stocker is a joke like trying to deflect a bullet with a piece of paper add in the fiberglass floor. I know this will be a show car but many people lost toes or legs when that trans clutch goes kaboom. Yup blew that up also except I had the Super T-10 in mine swapped over to a M-22 rock crusher and exploded that until I did the smart thing and built a th400 up to handle the power.

don't want to sound like a Jerk but the reason I parked my Vette 5 years ago is because I wanted to see my little girl grow up almost lost leg after trans explosion had fuel tank ruptured when a half shaft blew and grafted in metal to the drivers floor to remount my seat so next time the piddly seat bolts don't snap when the parachute opens. Parts break especially on a 40 year old car. Be safe

I will look into the shatter shield style housing. I do plan to use a less then common clutch in this car. Its a 4.5" 3 stage unit built by quarter master. This will be mounted on a button style flywheel that is neutral balanced. This is mainly for the old M20 transmission as it just does not like to shift without a clutch. So, with the 4.5" clutch, since it never needs to slip, I will basically be installing a switch between the motor and trans. This will also shave a huge amount of rotating mass from the driveline. My plan down the road is to eliminate the weak M20 and bell housing all together and install a power-glide directly bolted to the motor.

I can understand packing the car to be around longer. I dont think this car will be fast enough to need a parachute though.

Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it.

-Adam