1983 G20 van build - looking for advice

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

IIRC the vans of this generation had an unibody design. Anyway, probably a Diesel backed by a 5-speed manual would be your best option. If you would rather consider keeping the van as a gasser and trying the downsizing approach, I'd tell you to get the 262cu.in. V6, preferably with EFI, and try some sort of forced induction (either turbocharger or supercharger).

[drainoil]

I admire your ambition to take on such a project. The amount of equipment/tools and proper space to do such a swap is significant. Not to mention how much time this will take.

The other issue is your location. If your in CA how do you get around inspection and licensing of such a swap from the state? May want to check into that before going any further. If it's prohibitive, like already said you may be time, money, and several bottles of aspirin ahead by finding an older van that already is diesel from the factory.

[kv1]

@drainoil thanks! I found a really good guy on craigslist who is a pro who is willing to work with me and do it (I am paying him of course).

Regarding licensing, I read this on the following post (Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum - Powered by vBulletin

"This is NOT true. I have talked with a ref for the San Bernardino county. He told me on "PRE"-98 they do not smog diesels. Do the swap......DO NOT use an industrial diesel. Make an appointment with a ref,they will verify it and change the title. DONE. I am going to be eventually putting a 6.2 diesel in my '88 Wagoneer.....same thing I just said above.. "


"The engine used must still be from the same class of vehicle. Your k20 can use any diesel from a 3/4 ton vehicle that is the same or newer year as your k20. The engine still has to have any emission equipment on it that it originally had in whatever vehicle its from.

"Easiest" thing to do to get the registration changed to diesel is get a running 6.2 or 6.5, bolt it in, get the change made to the reg and then if you're not happy with the engine, put whatever you want in it.

Manimal, for your Wagoneer, find the thread that Budojeeper has on IFSJA. He put a 6.2 in an early 80's waggy. Spent a long time getting it thru the ref in the Bay area. Lots of good details."

Do I need to know the VIN of the donor vehicle? What else do I need? the VIN of my vehicle?

[kv1]

Also:
california gas to diesel swap smog requirements - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

BAR's own rules book:

under section 3.1.0 for referee inspection services; a vehicle must go to a referee when "a vehicles engine has been changed to a non-replacement engine and is not equipped with a BAR referee label". if the engine was offered in that frame in that year then it is considered a replacement engine. a good example of this is the mid 80's fullsize 3/4 or 1 ton trucks. they offered small block, big block and diesel engines; a swap of any of these three is considered acceptable as long as it retains all of the associated emissions equipment that went along with the engine being installed, is from that chassis' model year or newer, that the transplant engine went in that chassis originally.

read this section on page 73 of the BAR's inspection manual, it covers engine change guidelines;
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[kv1]

Also, found this article regarding biodiesel, environment, ecology and it seems to be rational:

Global warming and biodiesel: it depends

The global warming pollution created by biodiesel depends on how it is made and (especially) what it is made from.

Biodiesel made from waste materials or used cooking oil can cut global warming pollution by 80 to 90 percent relative to conventional diesel fuel.

Biodiesel made from unused cooking oil— soy, canola, or palm oil— is a less attractive option because it expands the global market for vegetable oil, a major driver of deforestation.
Unintended impacts of biodiesel

Production of biodiesel from sustainable low carbon sources like used cooking oil is an important and growing oil saving solution.

Unfortunately, policy-driven demand for biodiesel is exceeding the limited supply of low-carbon biodiesel sources, diverting vegetable oils from food markets and other uses.

Shifting these resources to biodiesel production creates a supply gap in food markets that’s then filled by palm oil—and that’s a problem. The production of palm oil destroys rainforests, causing severe social and environmental damage in Southeast Asia and the global climate.
The path forward: prioritize low-carbon biodiesel

Using biodiesel made from recovered waste streams is a smart way to help reduce our oil use. But increasing biodiesel production beyond the availability of these resources causes severe problems.

These problems can be avoided by federal and state policies that ensure biodiesel demand does not exceed the availability of low carbon biodiesel sources.

Otherwise we risk sourcing biodiesel from dirty sources, undermining the potential of biodiesel as an oil saving solution.
Biodiesel versus gasoline in cars and light trucks

Biodiesel Basics | Union of Concerned Scientists

[kv1]

Besides replacing the engine and trans, what other modifications do I need? (To only get the diesel working for now). I heard about two batteries. Is there anything else? Probably new fuel lines and things like that. Anything significant needs change?

[roflwaffle]

Offhand, you'll need to pull the cat, replace the fuel filler pipe, and throw a diesel fuel filter in there. Electrical should be pretty simple compared to a gasser, and almost everything else should be compatible.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by kv1

I heard about two batteries.

You know, Diesels are harder in a cold-start than a spark-ignition engine, and cold-starting aids such as glowplugs do take some battery load. The starter also got to work a little harder. BTW another important feature is the vacuum-assistance to the brakes: in a gasser it would be generated at the intake plenum, while a Diesel would require an auxiliary vacuum pump (usually belt-driven).

[2000mc]

Every hose. typically diesels run a larger radiator, even if you want to keep the current one, good luck finding hoses to make it happen. Radiator and or fan may necessitate a different shroud. Get an engine with everything possible, air cleaner, accessories/pulleys, y pipe.

[spacemanspif]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

BTW another important feature is the vacuum-assistance to the brakes: in a gasser it would be generated at the intake plenum, while a Diesel would require an auxiliary vacuum pump (usually belt-driven).

The diesels may have also used a "hydroboost" system for brakes, using power steering to create the brake assist. There are electric vacuum pumps too if you can't find a bolt on, belt driven, unit. Otherwise you'll need a strong hand, a mighty vac, and a vacuum reservoir to keep your power assist. 1983 did have power brakes, right?

At least there is a good package to be sold out of the van to offset the cost of the diesel. A 350/400 package deal should appeal to plenty on CL.com and you can probably get close to $500 for the pair.