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Old 08-16-2016, 03:52 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Beatiful work.
I am confused a bit about your order of fiberglass cloth. Do you want to cover the shell with fiberglass? In my opinion just clear coat should suffice. Do not cover this nice woodwork. Or is fiberglass for other reasons?


Last edited by seifrob; 08-16-2016 at 04:11 AM.. Reason: grammar, spelling
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Old 08-16-2016, 03:54 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I am doing the fiberglass in a way that will make it completely transparent when done. Pretty much all the cedar strip canoes have fiberglass over them. It will basically just look like a thick clear coat. I probably don't need it, but I think it will be worth doing.
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:10 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Aha, I didn´t know. Thaks for clarification.
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:56 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I am pretty sure this will end up costing me about the same as a new basic model camper shell, but doing it this way is a lot more fun though.
Custom work for the price of a commercial product IMHO is a win.

With the flexible air dam, take care against the air pushing it out of shape. Curved outer ends would help. The straight center section could be shallower for less bending, and to clear high centers and form spats in front of the wheels.
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Old 08-17-2016, 12:42 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Very well done
The shape is accentuated by the slats. Nice
Anxious to see mpg results...
Careful of water inflation at bed cap joint /stake pockets at speed .
I'll be able to comment about the square dual step at the edge of the bed soon. As I think that it causes turbulence on my cap. Maybe router the corners down to an angle or at least radi. them.maby even convex.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:06 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
Custom work for the price of a commercial product IMHO is a win.

With the flexible air dam, take care against the air pushing it out of shape. Curved outer ends would help. The straight center section could be shallower for less bending, and to clear high centers and form spats in front of the wheels.
Agreed, I am a big fan of custom work as well.

Good ideas for the air dam. I'll keep that in mind when the time comes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby79 View Post
Very well done
The shape is accentuated by the slats. Nice
Anxious to see mpg results...
Careful of water inflation at bed cap joint /stake pockets at speed .
I'll be able to comment about the square dual step at the edge of the bed soon. As I think that it causes turbulence on my cap. Maybe router the corners down to an angle or at least radi. them.maby even convex.
Thanks. What do you mean by water inflation? I am planning on smoothing out the square steps on the bed rails. It doesn't seem like they would cause too much trouble though as they are parallel with the air flow.
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:19 AM   #37 (permalink)
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I finished up laying out the cedar tonight. Next up will be trimming the excess and lots of sanding.















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Old 08-17-2016, 08:17 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Looking good!
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Old 08-17-2016, 08:30 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Damn that's pretty.

How are you going to open/close it? Hinge near the back of the cab? Just a small door in the back?

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Old 08-17-2016, 08:58 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macskyver View Post
......... Basically I am making a cedar strip shell using similar construction techniques as the cedar strip canoes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Macskyver View Post
I then cut all the frame pieces on the CNC out of poplar. The bit was a little smaller than nominal so some of the joints didn't fit very well.
Could you please post a very close up photo of a slat joint at the ends?

I'm imaging something like the below image which I found on the Internet.

MLCS Flute and Bead and Tambour Door Router Bits

Quote:
Tight fitting cedar strips make a canoe, hot tub, or planter. Use for any project using interlocking sealed edge joints. 2 flute, carbide tipped. Ideal for making cedar strip canoes (canoe building), hot tubs, planters, etc. The Stacked Flute and Bead bits (lower chart) make both profiles by simply moving the bt up or down. Purple color ♦ diamond marked items are designed for use on 1/4" slats to make tight sealed fitting edge joints on curved surfaces. Also known as "cove and bead router bits".
Excellent work, a thing of beauty.

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