2000 F350 4wd powerstroke. Would like hear idea/tips

[Milwaukee]

Yes I know that foolish.

On FTE we was on. Alot diesel mechanic and SERIOUS owner who strict maintain. Did test on that theory and had UOA on 2 oil. 1 from Hpop and 1 oil pan. They say it wasn't WORTH effort.

It show that it FALSE. It change oil so fast. You couldn't get old oil out head that like it hold 2 quarts something.

Problem is Previous owner ran out of fuel many times that what killing injectors. Change oil once a year He say once he refill tank when low fuel light coming ON.

I will investigation on this F350 to find why it consume fuel too much at idle.

[Milwaukee]

Did minor of works on this F350.

Did replace all ROT vac rubber lines so it build boost early than it used to. They were badly ROT you couldn't see outside until you look closely.

After inspect front end it pop to me that 3 belle tires shop who did alignment told me that everything is 100% perfect. They ever told me that driver side won't affect tire wear. WRONG I was measure tread and it was definably wear faster on inner tread. I put level on it. It confirmed it was 1" off. Must image it cost me alot fuel for that. Hoping new camber bushing fix that.


This why I do works myself. It easier to have them do alignment cause I had bad back/knee to get up/down millions times to look at tape measure on tires to get equal.


It confirmed that I had 3 bad injectors that suck all fuel to waste. Still waiting for guy to get title on truck I want pulled 8 injectors they only had 15K miles. No engine code for bad injectors. There miss on cold engine.


I am try find good price on Tonneau cover. I can't afford $300 cover.

[drmiller100]

I owned a 2000 powerstroke for 150,000 miles, and have worked on a dozen more.

great trucks, and I have never seen a bad injector. I bet it can happen, but I bet it is not happening to you.

Very common are glow plugs. be sure to buy Beru which are motorcraft. The rest of them are junk.
Very common is the wiring harness comes loose from the valve cover gasket.
VERY VERY common is a glow plug relay goes bad.

If you want 20 percent better mileage, get a tune from DP Tuner - Jody Tipton. He changes the timing and pressure. It also gives a LOT more power and makes the truck a lot better to drive.

[Big Dave]

Interesting case. An exceptionally poorly maintained truck.

Yeah, having been run out of fuel on multiple occasions may have damaged injectors. MPG will be poor until you address that.

Your idle GPM is unusual. Is your EPBV stuck closed? Mine gave me fits so I electrically disconnected it so it never closes. It takes longer to warm up in the winter but gaining 2 MPG in winter is worth it. The EBPV is essentially an exhaust brake. Mine stuck closed from September til May.

Also you may be idling too fast. Mine idles at 750 RPM.

Your junk yard engine control unit is doing you no favors. If you drive enough for MPG to matter you need to address this.

Lowering the truck will definitely help your MPG, but I know of no commercial kits for lowering a 4x4. I lowered mine 4" in front and 6" in back but my truck is a 4x2.

A tonneau will definitely help. For me it gained 1.5 MPG over an open bed. If $300 is too salty, go buy some 4x8s of plywood and make one yourself. there are a boatload of guys on this forum who have made some really effective aerolids for pickups. When bondo starts making aerolids I intend to buy one - the wind tunnel says his lids are the gold standard of smooth air flow on pickups - and I'll sell my A.R.E. tonneau.

I have nothing to offer on an automatic. Before my F350 I had a GMC diesel with an automatic and after seven trashed trannies I said never again. In my view all automatics are trash. Complicated. Expensive. Frail. Inefficient.
I have 287,000 miles on my truck and I still have the OEM clutch in it.

[Milwaukee]

History of this truck.

Bought at used car dealer for $1500 NONRUNNING.

Fuel light were ON they run out of fuel DRY. No fuel in fuel filter housing.

Oil look like black COAL but oil sticker on window is 4K miles later for oil change. Only 1K miles on oil.

Won't start itself without plug block heater for 1 hour. New glow plugs and relay never fixed it. It gotten worse later. Replaced couple injectors so it fine.


On GPH thingy If I notice while you cruise down 35 mph and off gas pedal it go down around .30-.58 when you are stop it go up 1.09 gph in gear.

I will check idle rpm with scan gauge tonight or tomorrow.

EBPv is unplug since I bought it was leak oil and no power when I need GO. Could you get picture of your EBPS in closed so I could see if mine is open or closed.

[Milwaukee]

I was looking at front axle there no way It can lower or it be bottom out on bumper rubber stop on frame. Now they only 2" clearance and I can feeling it bottom on when across potholes. I look at another truck with lower mile 70K they had 4-5" clearance so my leaf springs are sagged but that still good for aerodynamics


Rear axle I could lower about 2-3" to get level. But don't want rear end look sag while front end stand higher.

[Milwaukee]

After listen grind brake since I am deaf.

I decided apart front end for #2 times. Found 1 bad brake capilir were stuck.

axle shaft seal got chewed by wheel bearing so bad. Couldn't believed it didn't make noise.

After that I saw 2 mpg improve on highway Seem to be quiet and able coast longer.

Still wait for guy to get title on international so I could swap injectors and turbo on this one.

[99metro]

I had a 1996 Powerstroke F250 4x4, BTS E4OD. Still wish I kept it. I put a 205 degree thermostat in it. I used an Edge programmer on Extreme setting. I kept the EGT below 600 all the time and Boost as low as possible. I did slow accelerations and that seemed to help. Lots of pulse and glide and neutral coasting. Never had a Scangauge for it. I could probably do better today - maybe hit 25 mpg if I tried. Definitely get that alignment right, keep the tires on the high side - at least 70-75 psi. Tailgate up. Sometimes the wires under the valve cover burn up. Sometimes the pins for the pass thru plugs on the valve cover gaskets burn up. My 2 cents.

[drmiller100]

General consensus on EGT's - put the probe between engine and turbo, and keep it below 1250 F and it is safe for pulls all day long.

run it to 1300 and you are risking it.

I ran the edge also at first. it is ok, but DP tuner was measurably better.

[redpoint5]

Originally Posted by drmiller100

I ran the edge also at first. it is ok, but DP tuner was measurably better.

What was better about the DP tuner, and what measurable readings did you observe?