2001 Jetta TDI repair

[deejaaa]

think the airbox is in the wrong spot. JK!
I have a Vag-tech coming. should be here Friday. need it to reset airbags after I swapped seats.

[Daox]

The new engine is in and running, hurray! It fired right up on the first try. I did use a vacuum pump to prime the injector pump. I also polished and UV coated the headlights as they were absolutely horribly yellowed.

I do have a few lingering issues to take care of on the car yet. I have had new front struts and mounts sitting around for over a year for this thing that need to go on it. I broke a wire going to the reverse light switch. Anyone know where I can get a pigtail for it? Its a 2 wire D shaped connector. I also somehow misplaced the metal clips for the coolant lines that go to the heater core on the firewall.

Other than that, I am going to do a quick rust repair job on the rear driver's side wheel well. After that, it'll be out of the garage and back on the road.

[deejaaa]

great news.
all i can think of is in this section:
Private TDI Items for Sale/Wanted - TDIClub Forums
or a JY.

[Daox]

I was able to find the coolant clips and looked on ebay for a pigtail and I think I found one. Its for a 'smog pump' pigtail, but it looked the same. I'll find out later this week!

[Daox]

Smog pump connector was the right shape... but way too big haha. Going to see if the vendor can get me the right plug.

I worked on the car a bit this weekend. This time for a little body work. The only real body rust on the car is the driver's side rear wheel well. Before it got too bad, I wanted to do something about it. I'm definitely NOT a body guy at all, but I am trying my hand at it.

Here is the main rust I'm talking about. There was another little bit where the rear bumper cover attaches that I'm not going to really cover as I didn't take pictures of it.





This was my main tool. However, I also used a flat bladed screw driver to tap on and scrape off chunks of rust to get down to the metal.





Here I got it all sanded down and cleaned with paint prep. Sadly there as a hole already made in the metal. I ended up taking the rear wheel liner off and getting the back side too to try to deter the rust as long as possible.





The next step isn't pretty, but it'll be smoothed out. I brushed on some Eastwood rust encapsulator. Its a rust converter product. After it cures, I'll sand it a bit, add some filler, and then prime and paint it.

[deejaaa]

looks good. we're lucky here not to have rust issues.

[Daox]

I scuffed up the rust converter with some 320 grit. Then I slapped a layer of bondo over it. You body guys will probably cringe but I'm learning!

I didn't have time to start sanding it down besides knocking down the high points and cleaning up the junk between the door and jam.

[deejaaa]

let 'em cringe. everyone has to start somewhere. looks good so far.

[Daox]

I was able to pretty much finish up the fender work yesterday.

I got the bondo sanded down, put another coat on and sanded it again. It definitely could have used another coat, but looking at the rest of the car this is not needing to be a 'perfect' repair job.





So, it got a shot (ok a bunch of shots to attempt to smooth my bondoing job a little more) of primer.





More sanding of the primer.





Then I shot it with some gloss black. It seems to have turned out pretty good. Although I haven't seen it dried yet. The last step will be to hit it with a buffer. I'm not planning a clear coat, but I'm open to suggestions.

[deejaaa]

i would definitely put clear. needs protection from salts. go to an auto paint store or online for suggestions.
mine is going to the mechanics. couldn't get over 50. then it slowly lost rpm to 30 mph and smokes black. feel like a loser for not figuring out what is wrong with it.