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Old 10-08-2014, 03:09 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by anonyme0897 View Post
This video on youtube seems to describe the same situation as yours:

watch?v=i6x31RU1S_I

In the video, the guy found that the timing belt was off by one tooth.

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Old 10-08-2014, 09:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anonyme0897 View Post
This video on youtube seems to describe the same situation as yours:

watch?v=i6x31RU1S_I

In the video, the guy found that the timing belt was off by one tooth.
Yeah, that is exactly how mine acts. I guess I'll check the timing belt timing. I swear I double even triple checked it though... bleh.

I got a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump from a friend at work. He had replaced them in his 01 Civic and had the old ones that still worked. He had issues starting once warm. I threw them in last night, no difference.

Then, I tried something that seems to verify that it is the timing belt timing. I unplugged the crankshaft position sensor and started it up. It ran rough, but it did run.
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Old 11-08-2014, 02:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I pulled things apart and I was off one tooth on the timing. I reassembled things and fixed the ELD sensor in the car. Then it started having other issues:

Now, it won't start on its own, you have to give it some gas to get it to start. Then, you get the flashing engine light due to misfires. Eventually, I get a P0303, P0304, and P0300.

So, I pulled the plugs and 3 & 4 look normal to me, but 1 & 2 look super rich. Swapped the ignition coils around, no difference.

1, 2, 3, and 4 left to right.



So, next up I checked the resistance of the fuel injectors. Each one is dead on 15 ohms.

So, I'm quite confused... Any ideas guys?
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Old 11-08-2014, 04:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I would look at the timing again. Did it run ok before the headgasket?

Is there a chance that the cam position sensor is bad?
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It ran just fine before the headgasket. I just had it apart and verified the timing is correct.

Its possible a sensor is bad, but I'm not getting an engine light for it. I'd assume that it would throw a code if that were the case.
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Old 11-08-2014, 09:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Check the ground wire from the cylinder head to the radiator support. Use a DVOM to check for voltage along ground circuits.

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Old 11-08-2014, 09:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
It ran just fine before the headgasket. I just had it apart and verified the timing is correct.

Its possible a sensor is bad, but I'm not getting an engine light for it. I'd assume that it would throw a code if that were the case.
If the timing is good and you're confident the headgasket was done correctly, it boils down to electrical. I agree with old mech on this one. Probably a gremlin in there somewhere. Check all connectors that were removed during the repairs, use contact cleaner if you have it.
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Old 11-08-2014, 09:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Those plugs look like they have been in there a very long time, unless it's the photo perspective. #2 looks like the gap is closed.

I doubt that plugs alone would be the problem.

Test for spark, cranking and running. I know it wont run after cranking. You could disconnect the power signal lead from the starter and use a remote starter (push button with two leads) to start the car while another person holds the key in the crank position.
If it keeps running then start checking the ignition "on" circuit to see if it is not getting to the coils.

Start (crank) and run are two separate circuits.

In most systems the crank circuit runs direct battery voltage to the coils and after start the voltage is regulated to prevent an overcharging alternator from frying the coils.

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Old 11-09-2014, 07:31 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help guys.

I'll check the grounds.

The plugs are very worn, but I don't think they are the issue. I regapped #2 before I put it back in and there was no change. I have a new set of iridiums to go in it. They were in it, and I swapped them for the coppers for troubleshooting.

I have checked for spark while cranking and its good on all 4 cylinders. I'll check while running.
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:18 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Well, it turns out it was my fault. I did a compression test on the engine, cylinder 3 was zero. I removed the valve cover and double checked my valve adjustment. Sure enough, cylinder 3 was completely off. I think I must have done them in the wrong order or something. I readjusted it and it ran smooth as glass. I'm so happy to have that sorted out.

Thanks for the help guys!

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