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Old 07-08-2010, 10:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Lincoln, your post couldn't be more timely. It's 95 degrees, and I just removed the lower grille block. The upper, made of tape, will be harder to remove, but easy to cut holes in if need be. What's a healthy range for coolant temp? The boiling point of water is too high, obviously, and it got dangerously close to that today. What's funny (not funny "ha-ha") about that is the temp. gauge on the dash remained firmly planted in the middle.

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Old 07-09-2010, 12:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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On a modern engine, 210* is a pretty normal running temp. As long as it's not over 215 - 220 for sustained periods of time, I wouldn't worry.

With a 50/50 mix of water and coolant, plus the pressure in the system, the boiling point is raised considerably.
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks, Comp. I'm less worried now. It's been hovering around 200 since I started monitoring it. Hasn't gotten above 210, but with the lower grille block in place, that was enough to keep the a/c from doing much.
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Old 07-10-2010, 03:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
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i had an idea a couple of days ago, and i'd be interested in any feedback. hardware stores and the like sell huge sheets of heavy-duty plastic for covering carpet and furniture. aesthetics notwithstanding, would it be substantially more helpful to cover the entire front bumper with that once it cools down outside? that would serve as an airtight grille block, while also effectively sealing all the little gaps and holes in the bumper, from the grilles, the lights, and the trim. i was thinking it would go from the very top of the bumper, where it meets the hood, covering the trim at the bottom, which i guess is a sort of chin spoiler or splitter.

now that i'm really brainstorming this, if i were to have a couple of supports in the front wheel wells, i could extend the barrier to cover the front wheels (not so much that it would be like a wheel skirt or fairing, but just an extension of the bumper. like a wide-body kit, but made from plastic film). it's been a long day, so i might just be delirious, but it seems pretty feasible to me. it seems much better than the tape idea i mentioned the other day, because it'll have no seams and i won't have to worry about adhesive on the bumper. in fact, if it's transparent enough, i can just cover the license plate with it, simplifying installation and removal that much more.

as i said before, i'm a total n00b at this, and i have very little working knowledge of fluid dynamics, with very little patience for reading textbooks. the little i do know i've learned from this site, so thanks very much to basjoos, andrewj, metrompg, cd, and all you others who've helped to educate me.
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:55 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Way cool someone else.

A couple of things, the GPs have a under body pan. that can be installed.

I have been running my front air dam almost 3 years along with side skirts.

If you block off the intercooler or at least play with it you can induce a hot air intake. I do this in the winter to keep my MPG up.

I have along with others have picked up a mile to to 2 with vg's on the c pillar.

Also get a filtered oil catch can on the car, it will clean up the fuel mixture.

You can reduce your water temps by using a water wetter.

What oil are you using?
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:23 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Something else is dumping the heavy stock wheels.

I up loaded a few pictures.

I have been playing with the car for 3 years, I know it is not in sink 100% with ecomodder but I have been able to maintain the car at 32 mpg and putting out almost 200 HP. If I use driving skills that are talked about and suggested here my MPG is pushed to 40 - 45 mpg.

I think if the S hood was changed out with a cooper hood and a water to air intercooler was installed things would be more stable.

The other thing is I have seen when my intake air temps reach 100 degrees the mpg goes through the roof.

Do you have some way to read the info off the obd II

BTW the thermostat doesn't start opening till 190

Last edited by johnf36; 07-15-2010 at 07:27 AM.. Reason: more info
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:05 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If you do that with the plastic, it may make opening the hood to check/refill fluids difficult.
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:13 AM   #18 (permalink)
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johnf, it's great to see another MINI owner with a foot in both camps (MINI and ecomodder)! Thanks for the info and the suggestions.

Nevyn, the plastic would only cover the bumper, which wouldn't interfere with the hood or anything under it (except the intercooler, obviously).

My photoshop skills are abysmal, but this is a quick mockup of what I'm planning.


Last edited by iplaysdrums; 07-17-2010 at 02:16 AM.. Reason: image didn't work.
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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One day soon, this drain pan will become rear wheel fairings



I've decided I'm going to make the fairings in two stages: first, I'll cut the drain pan in half, trim to fit, then connect where the middle piece of trim is, so the flat part of the fairing will be diagonal, facing rearward. This is a means to an end, not an end in itself, because the second stage will connect to that and extend past the rear bumper, making the bottom part of the partial boat tail. I think it'll look pretty cool, very unique at least, and it will definitely smooth the airflow past the bumper, so the only trick will be getting it to release cleanly. I think if I can fashion the edge into a trip device (a la Chevy Volt), that shouldn't be an issue. It'll also look retrofuturistic, which isn't even a word.
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Nice How are they attached?

Have you done a rear seat delete yet?

FYI, if you haven't looked a person can use the plastic rivets inside the wheel and bumper housings for attachment points.

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