22 Maverick mileage and mod thread

[Phase]

Originally Posted by Isaac Zachary

I currently have a "stock" block heater on the Avalon. It's called a "cartridge" heater and slips into a specially designed hole on the engine block. It works ok, but only keeps the engine at about 30°F above ambient temperature and takes several hours to reach it, so in the winter the engine may never be above freezing when I start it. I think it's 200W but am unsure.

In the past I've used 1,500W circulating tank heaters on other vehicles such as a 1.6L 1985 VW Golf diesel engine. That heater would make a difference in as little as 15 minutes. 2 hours or less would have the engine up to running temperatures even in freezing temps. I'd like to get a couple of these again, one for each of my cars.

I had a 150W heated oil plate heater on the 1972 VW Super Bug that worked ok for an aircooled engine.

Hmmm I wonder if there’s one with my Hyundai Ioniq. It hates the cold!

[Isaac Zachary]

Originally Posted by Phase

Hmmm I wonder if there’s one with my Hyundai Ioniq. It hates the cold!

Circulating tank heaters are universal and go on the heater coolant hoses. They're just tricky to get in the right place because they have to be low for them to work and they need to come from a low point on the engine and go in a high point which usually means the water goes backwards through them from the way it goes when the engine is running. This can burn them out if you forget to unplug the block heater when go to start the car.

[JRMichler]

Back to the original purpose for this thread.....

The heater kept the cab warm at -22 deg F with the heater blower on the slowest speed. At speeds lower than about 35-40 MPH, the engine runs to maintain heat. This is one reason for the loss of mileage on cold days and low speeds.

This truck is powerful. I passed a car on the highway by flooring it until past the other car, and reached 80 MPH. It then shifted into electric mode when I lifted off the gas pedal.

I have been using Normal and ECO modes. The ECO mode turns off the engine at slightly lower temperature, and holds it in electric mode until slightly higher power than Normal mode. The differences are small, and I did not notice any significant change in MPG. A true comparative test is difficult because the MPG is so sensitive to temperature and wind.

The gas mileage is sensitive to outside temperature. Highway mileage at 0 deg F is about 35 MPG, while about 42 MPG at 30 deg F. Both numbers vary depending on the wind. I am eagerly awaiting warmer weather.

Pulse and glide is easy. One challenge is that lifting off the gas switches to electric mode with regenerative braking activated. In order to glide, it is necessary step on the gas just hard enough to hold the regenerative braking to zero. P&G would be much easier if the default regenerative braking was changed to zero. Regenerative braking would still be activated by the brake pedal.

A binary driver, one who is hard on the and hard on the brakes with little coasting, will not benefit from a hybrid. Such a driver will spend little time in electric mode. Hard on the brakes means that little regeneration energy will be collected.

So far, after almost 2000 miles, the dash MPG meter reads about 3.4% higher than actual measured tank mileage.

[Keito]

So far, after almost 2000 miles, the dash MPG meter reads about 3.4% higher than actual measured tank mileage.[/QUOTE]

You can adjust the dash mpg meter to get it closer to actual measured mpg's.
There's a ratio adjust you can enter in the dash, I've done it, it works, on my
Ford Fusion.

I would think the Maverick would have that ability too.

[JRMichler]

Today's tank fill calculated to 49.0 MPG, while the dash display said 51.8 MPG. Frustrating because it would have been about 50 MPG if not for the last 100 miles in rain with a headwind. The gas mileage of this truck is VERY sensitive to temperature. Approximate numbers:

0 deg F - 35 MPG
30 deg F - 40 MPG
60 deg F - 49 MPG

My driving technique has been fairly consistent since the first tank. I am not looking forward to next winter's cold temperatures. My driving is about 90% highway, almost all in 55 MPH speed limits. I normally drive about 1 to 5 MPH over the limit. This is a little slower than most people drive in this area, but fast enough that few people get upset. Today, Saturday of Memorial Day weekend, was a little different. I had 8 tailgaters (less than one car length behind me) at various times in a 200 mile trip.

The dash MPG display is about 3% optimistic in 0 to 30 degree temperatures, and about 6% optimistic at 40 to 60 degrees. I was unable to find any way to adjust the ratio. The density of gasoline changes about 3% over that temperature range, which might have something to do with the difference in accuracy.

The truck has an automatic grille shutter. That shutter does not close completely, even at -22 degrees with or without the engine running. I would sure like to know why this is the case. I assume that there is a need for some airflow through the engine compartment at all times.

I was driving in NORMAL mode until 3-14-2022, and ECO mode since then. There is not much difference between the two modes. The largest difference is that in ECO mode and cold weather with the heater running, the engine will shut off at slightly lower coolant temperature.

[ignafiltro]

Hey Michler, do you use fuelly?

[Snax]

Any updates on this?

I see that several manufacturers are working on providing lowering springs. Seems like low hanging fruit on this truck.

I'm looking to get one soon. Just waiting to see what the 2023s will offer. Want aPHEV, but will probably just try to find a 2022 hybrid if that isn't one of the options this year. (Ordering for 2023 opens 8/2!)

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by JRMichler

I took photos of the underside. The first photo is under the front bumper looking to the rear.

There is no air dam, except for a spat in front of each front tire. The underside is belly panned from the front bumper back to the rear axle, with gaps for the front suspension and exhaust system. This truck is front wheel drive, and the hybrid does not have a four wheel drive option. Ford did not leave space for a drive shaft to the rear axle in this vehicle.

The next photo is under the rear bumper looking forward.

The belly pan stops at the rear axle. There is no rear diffuser underneath, just an open area. But that open area is above the belly pan, so does not have high velocity air hitting things. This is consistent with a figure from Aerodynamics of Road Vehicles by Hucho:

The largest drag reduction comes from belly pans extending from the front bumper back to the rear axle, with only minimal benefit from belly pans after the rear axle.

I do not intend to experiment with front air dams or belly pans on this truck. Ford did too good a job, and I see no opportunity to make a noticeable improvement in this area.

In Hucho's 2nd-Edition underbody research, for the Audi 100-III, all the forward belly panels allowed for the rear panel, which provided as much drag reduction as the forward panel.
If a 2.8-degree upswept 'diffuser' took the place of the 'level' rear panel, the Audi would experience an additional 20% drag reduction.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by freebeard

duckduckgo.com/?q=basalt+tape+insulation&ia=web


www.basalt.guru/basalt-tape-aka-lava-wrap-for-improved-performance/

Basalt, not fiberglass.

Isn't super-cooled molten basalt an amorphous volcanic glass?

[freebeard]

duckduckgo.com/?q=basalt%20fiber%20environmental%20impact

https://www.sciencedirect.com › science › article › pii › S187661021730022X
A Mechanical and Environmental Assessment and Comparison of Basalt ...
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https://basaltreinforcedcomposites.com › benefits-comparisons
Benefits/Comparisons - Basalt Fiber Composite Reinforcements
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