11-10-2014, 12:47 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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Use a momentary switch on the gearshift. Because you *will* forget to close a toggle switch once in a while when you go to re-start and will suffer a brief bit of "o $h!#" alarm when that happens.
What year is the Tercel? You should definitely also get an MPG gauge for it. If you're having fun now, the instant & trip-resettable feedback brings it to a whole new level of entertainment (as well, it'll help you save even more).
A belated welcome to the forum! What part of the province are you in?
Darin
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Today
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11-10-2014, 01:09 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Use a momentary switch on the gearshift. Because you *will* forget to close a toggle switch once in a while when you go to re-start and will suffer a brief bit of "o $h!#" alarm when that happens.
What year is the Tercel? You should definitely also get an MPG gauge for it. If you're having fun now, the instant & trip-resettable feedback brings it to a whole new level of entertainment (as well, it'll help you save even more).
A belated welcome to the forum! What part of the province are you in?
Darin
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Yeah, makes sense.
1999, I have an ultragauge but my one obd2 port is occupied by insurance company monitoring tool, lowers my rates a bit. Splitter doesn't work, tried it already. Only one device can interact with the ecu at a time.
GTA, hamilton
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11-10-2014, 01:12 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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Do you have to leave the insurance thing permanently attached, or do they monitor for a certain amount of time then take it back?
I've considered one... probably should do it, considering how little and slowly I tend to drive!
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11-10-2014, 08:19 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Do you have to leave the insurance thing permanently attached, or do they monitor for a certain amount of time then take it back?
I've considered one... probably should do it, considering how little and slowly I tend to drive!
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6 months is how long they want it in apparently. I'm about 1/3 of the way there.
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The Following User Says Thank You to 0xsergy For This Useful Post:
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11-10-2014, 08:58 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Batman Junior
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If you remember, post back here when you learn the results of their spying... ie. Whether it changes your rates. Sorry to go off topic in your thread!
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11-10-2014, 10:35 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
If you remember, post back here when you learn the results of their spying... ie. Whether it changes your rates. Sorry to go off topic in your thread!
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Apparently it'll only change my rates for the next term so it'll be a while.
Well, I have it set up now with a relay. Using the empty AC fuse slot for power The fans have to be on for the AC fuse to get power so it's a bit of a safety I suppose, also prevents me from trying while engine is cold :P. Getting the trigger mounted is a PITA though. My shifter is shaped so it gets thinner as it goes down so I had to resort to this temporarily.
I don't want a mount that has anything permanent. I'd like to keep it removable without a trace, etc.
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11-11-2014, 09:30 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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5.2L on the latest tank. The only thing that changed was new spark plugs at fill up(so i could accurately measure the difference). I put in ngk iridium instead of the ngk copper ones it had, what gives? To be fair I did do a bit more city driving on this one, 6 trips all from ~4C so cold engine(100km or so). I was planning on pulling the PS belt now but I need to run another tank through the plugs to see if they produce a negative or positive impact and pulling the belt would add too many factors to the equation.
Also, the ignition kill hasn't been used too many times so I doubt its impact is measurable. I need to find a better way to mount it.
Last edited by 0xsergy; 11-11-2014 at 09:39 PM..
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11-12-2014, 09:39 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Thats not a big variance at all (48 mpg vs 45). With the temperatures dropping you'll probably see it continue to decline.
IMO I wouldn't worry about testing the plugs. I would be willing to bet money that they net no noticeable difference.
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11-12-2014, 10:11 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Not bad for a machine
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Can you explain why the AC fan and the kill switch are connected?
You are keeping the AC fan on so you can use a kill switch?
YEahh you shouldnt do it like that....
You are increasing warm up time!!
You are using a huge electrical load!!
read the
http://ecomodder.com/forum/fuel-econ...ifications.php
__________________
Last edited by dirtydave; 11-12-2014 at 10:18 AM..
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11-12-2014, 11:14 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtydave
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Nono. I keep fans + heat set to cold until the engine is at operating temp. I was using the empty AC fuse slot(I have no AC) to get hot power to route through the switch and over to the relay. I fixed that. I bought a dual fuse thingy which I have in the fuse slot for cig and radio that I'm running a 5a fuse in for my 12v->5v dc converter(for dashcam) and the kill switch.
@Daox Taking into account I had two tanks at 4.87 and 4.93 that's a pretty decent difference. Or maybe I'm looking too far into patterns that aren't there.
EDIT: Did the PS delete just now, removed the belt(lazy method, i know). I took it for a test drive to see if looping the system/etc would be worth the effort but it's so easy to turn. I'm a small guy, 130lbs 5'7", so not exactly Hercules but I had no issues in turning the wheel with one hand at red light right turn speeds which was my main concern. If I do find a low KM version of my car I'll grab a steering rack out of an automatic coupe(that's the version that came with manual steering) and drop that in. For this mileage though it's not worth the money/time.
Last edited by 0xsergy; 11-12-2014 at 08:38 PM..
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