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Old 07-13-2010, 09:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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92-95 Honda Civic Kill swtich, how to make?

Has anybody figured out a better way to make a kill swtich for a 92-95 Honda Civic? I read that Andrew J had 2 versions (1 that kills the ecu/speedo/odo and 1 that kills the fuel pump). I've been using the fuel pump switch for a while now. But I've been reading by Christ and MetroMPG that this is not the best route to killing the engine.

I've read that Daox put a switch on his cam sensor, but i've tried that on my car and it didn't work, only to read later on that Christ said this wont work on OBD1 cars.

I've also read suggestions to cut the power supply to the injectors, however, for my car, each injector is wired directly into the ECU (there is no common wire for them, which means i'd have to cut 4 more wires which is not what im willing to do).

Christ and MetroMPG both suggested killing the ignition system to get instantaneous kill. I've already cut 5 wires today on my ecu harness (2 for the camshaft sensor; CKP, 2 for the ignition control module, and 1 that i THOUGHT was the ignition coil only to find out it was the wire for the tach).

Here's the Service Manual for my engine, 1994 Acura Integra Gsr, which is basically the same wiring as a 92-95 Civic. Can somebody take a quick gander and see what other options (if any) that i have?

If not, thanks anyways for looking, I'd really appreciate your input.


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Old 07-13-2010, 10:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It looks like you may need to kill all three timing sensors to kill spark, or the single wire from the ICM to the coil.
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Old 07-13-2010, 11:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I wrote a how to for 5th gen civics a while ago. Basically a push to OPEN button wired inline with the ground on the fuel injector relay kills all injectors at the same time. For the time that the button is depressed the CEL comes on then goes off a second after letting go of the button. The engine dies right now and comes right back when bumpstarting.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...vic-12075.html

You don't want to kill the spark (not entirely sure mine doesn't though). You want to kill the injectors. If you kill the spark unburned fuel will somewhat wash the oil from the cylinders and you will get a little extra wear for your troubles. If you kill the injectors it will just lean out. At low power settings as in when you are setting up for EOC there is 0 chance of cooking valves.
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Last edited by bestclimb; 07-13-2010 at 11:48 PM..
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Ah, that was my other idea i was thinking about, just wanted to get confirmation from someone before i got hacking into more wires.

From the service manual, it states that the PGM-FI controls the ecu/fuel pump/and fuel injectors. So cutting off all three of those is essentially EOCing, correct?
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The injectors is the primary thing. The ECU knows there is a problem with the relay while it is not grounded (no ground no electrical flow so no "magic") so it lights up the check engine light whilst the button is pressed. I don't know if the fuel pump is shut off, but if it is or is not it should not be an issue as the injectors aren't squirting fuel so no fuel needs to flow. Once you let go of your kill switch the ECU no longer sees a problem with the relay, so the check engine light goes out. If the fuel pump was off it will come back on if the pressure is low. When I did mine I hacked into no wires. Just pulled one out of the connector and replaced it with another.
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Oh right, cuz its the ground wire, gotcha.
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Old 07-14-2010, 08:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Got the switch finished today. Took longer than expected because somewhere along the way the ECU fuse ended up blowing, so that took me a while to figure out.

(Note to self, instead of wanting to preserve your MPGuino settings, just be safe and disconnect the battery)

Thanks everybody for your help!

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