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Old 11-03-2012, 11:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
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It don't look bad, 10x better than the one I had, of course the salt on the roads in Michigan don't help and the fact mine had 220k.

I might have some parts around if you happen to need anything.

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Old 11-03-2012, 02:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
Tires need balancing, they are code dated early 2009 and probably have less than 10k miles total since installed, seem to roll decent with 44 PSI max sidewall.
Don't tyres also go with age as well as miles covered ?

Looks an interesting project though.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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dual-plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
I wrote a long post and the wife got home from work. By the time she quit talking the post timed out, so I need to write another.

2.3L dual plug 4 cylinder.

Metro, I like the convenience of having a truck, but I don't want to sacrifice the mileage like I had to with the F150. Also for trips to the Pick and Pull, and the county recycling center with yard debris. and auctions when I might pick up something for a good price.

Be back later. Thanks for the interest everyone.

regards
mech
Al Glidewell's father-in-law Thurman had a dual-plug Ranger and claimed 30-mpg hwy.Al says that Thurman has a 'helium-foot' and never drove over 50-55 mph (if that helps any).
If true,you'll be heading for 40+ mpg territory real soon!
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It seems to be very good on gas as is. My wife opened the glove box today, which I forgot to clean up and when she grabbed the owners manual it stuck to her fingers!
I cleaned the glove box and the owners manual pouch this afternoon. Lubed all of the hinges and lock cylinders which were so stiff you could not lock the doors with the key when I bought the truck. Got the fender to door gaps lined up better. The right front fender was replaced some time ago, I think the hood as well, but can't be sure.

New wiper blade assemblies (got a noreaster coming) some seafoam in the tank and drove it to 80 miles on the tank today. Still well above 3/4 tank with a 17 gallon tank, but some of the fuel is very old since it only had 275 miles put on it since the last state inspection in April.

I was going to be patient and not mod anything until I got a baseline mileage, but the mud flaps just had to go, so now they are in the recycle bin. Factory flaps, I wonder how much gas was used in 124k miles to drag those flaps through enough atmosphere to travel around the globe 5 times.

Pics coming in this thread in a few minutes.

regards
Mech
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Some pics of the undercarriage. Both the cab ends are very clean with no rust. Surface rust on the frame. One piece prop shaft with serviceable u joints. Also the factory mud flaps I tossed today. I might save the brackets for the dams behind the tires.

regards
mech
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Took a day trip to Richmond, actually Mechanicsville (got to love that name) Va. to a couple of antique and flea market malls. 23rd wedding anniversay so the wife was along for the ride.

Today I refilled at 1/2 tank showing on the gauge. Took 8.65 gallons (17 gallon tank) for 252.6 miles, 29.2MPG (EPA 24 highway). About what I expected after some research and just about the same mileage as my 1999 Maxima. Some of that drive was Interstate at close to 70 MPH, which calculates to right at 2500 RPM. (3.45 diff, .79 OD 5th and about 815 revs per mile)

Found out the AC compressor runs even when you are on defrost or floor and dash heat. When I got back from Richmond I noticed water running out from under the truck, and a little investigation showed it to be condensation from the AC. Thats ludicrous when it's 55 degrees outside, so I unplugged the compressor at the diode and tossed the diode in the glove box so I can hook it up later when I might actually need AC. You would think Ford would do something about running the AC when you don't need it. I know the AC defrosts the windows really fast but running a compressor all winter seems to be really stupid, at least to me it does. Put a freaking switch on it so I can turn that sucker off!

ps2fixer;
I think I found out where your brake line rusted out. There was a big clod of dirt on top of the left frame rail right about where your feet are when driving, where the fuel filter is underneath. I used a screwdriver and my pressure washer to blast the dirt out of there. Maybe your advice can save me some money in the future, thanks a lot.
The truck also had 15W40 oil used on the last change, manual calls for 5W30. Since the oil has over 3k miles on it I will probably change it very soon, maybe tomorrow when I put the blower motor resistor in and clean up the blower motor and squirrel cage and the heater housing and AC condenser, all of which are accessible from the engine compartment.

After some shopping I think I am going to use electrical conduit for the frame on my custom bed cap. I still need to see what the plastic panels will cost.

regards
Mech
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:25 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I didn't say anything about brake lines? But either way, no problem lol. Funny thing is... I do remember having the driver's side front brake line replaced, it think it was just rusty, not blown out. Prevent brake downs (pun intended) is already a good thing .

I think beating 30mpg is a great goal for the truck, since it is basically not modded, and the stories I hear, people get around that for the TOP mpg on these, should mean your doing something right .
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Doug - '03 Chrysler PT Cruiser Base
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We should start an all compact pick-up eco-a-thon and see which make model and driver reigns supreme! I always wanted to eco-mod a commanche...perhaps you have inspired me to do so.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Spent 6 hours today welding and fabricating the frame for my aero cap. Used Home Depot electrical conduit, $2 per 10 feet. Total cost of materials including brackets was $21.90. Welder, materials, and shop use was free, since I gave them the welder after it sat in my garage for 6 years. Still have 1/3rd of the conduit left so far.

I was all excited about posting some photos until I got home and remembered the wife took my camera with her on a weekend vacation with her two daughters. Oh well, I'll get some tomorrow afternoon.

I think I am going to hinge it on the side, which allows me to mount the hinges to the side rail of the bed, and it will be easy to take off if I need to haul something that is too tall to fit under the cap. It will also mean less work fabricating hinges and a mounting setup behind the cab The whole thing will not weigh very much but have plenty of strength for it's purpose. Everything will be welded together except the hinges, so they can be removed quickly. Even the skin will have no mechanical fasteners, just urethane windshield adhesive which is a structural component and immensely strong. Just glue the panels in place like an auto glass.

regards
Mech
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:52 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChazInMT View Post
Here's a drawing I did a while back for another Ranger, the back is probably taller than you thought it'd be.



Here's a full size image for more detail. Same Pic Bigger
Chaz, I got it right at 10.5 inches just in front of the tailgate. Down to parallel with the top of the bed at the point where the tailgate is when it is down, 2 feet further back. This gives me the capability to carry 8 foot sheets of plywood, inside the enclosed bed with the cap in place. Thanks for the illustration. I think you will find I followed it closely. My truck looks like it sits higher in the rear than the one in your picture. Might do something about that later but for now I am going to focus on the aero part.

regards
Mech

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