Aero RV (custom boat tail for '95 Ford E-350 Class C motorhome)

[skyking]

Sounds like a US Gear
Seriously, there are techniques to help that shift.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by skyking

The only way I know is to fuel slowly. I use the slowest latch ( we can still latch a pump here and there) and wash the windows. I don't fill often nor do I fill at a busy busy station, so I don't fret about tying up a pump.
When I get back, I keep topping till the fuel just stands there.

Some station delivery rates are set so high that even the 'lowest' setting has caused spillage.
I ended up inserting the 6" stainless probe of a dial thermometer to hold the detente fuel door open after the first clickoff.Then I can watch down the bore as the fuel comes up the neck until it just stands there.I don't spill this way,and I know for certain that the tank is actually topped-off.
The vapor recovery nozzle boot must be held back,but it's not a hardship.
What would William Shatner say about that?

[skyking]

<shatner> I don't care HOW you do it Scotty, we need power now! </shatner>

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by skyking

<shatner> I don't care HOW you do it Scotty, we need power now! </shatner>

'Aye Captain,but the dilithium crystals are about to blow!'

[orbywan]

Originally Posted by aerohead

Some station delivery rates are set so high that even the 'lowest' setting has caused spillage.
I ended up inserting the 6" stainless probe of a dial thermometer to hold the detente fuel door open after the first clickoff.Then I can watch down the bore as the fuel comes up the neck until it just stands there.I don't spill this way,and I know for certain that the tank is actually topped-off.
The vapor recovery nozzle boot must be held back,but it's not a hardship.
What would William Shatner say about that?

OK, I've been in the sun too long, let me see if I understand your description. "I ended up inserting the 6" stainless probe of a dial thermometer to hold the detente fuel door open (you're referring to the little spring loaded door in most or all late model gas tank fill necks, yes?) after the first clickoff. (and you insert this tube down the tank fill neck to hold the little door open after the nozzle has kicked itself off the first time)."

Then you proceed to fill up i.e., skyking's description, till the level is static. My beast has no spring loaded fuel door so I don't know why I'm asking other than to assure myself the Alzhymer's isn't getting worse.

[orbywan]

Originally Posted by skyking

Sounds like a US Gear
Seriously, there are techniques to help that shift.

I managed to get the hang of it somewhat, but every once in a while despite my best efforts, it felt like I got rear-ended by a runaway locomotive. My customer was also not impressed, I removed the unit and sent it back. Not good.

In spite of that I'd still consider it. Having a high/low would be way cool. My concern would be the overdrive ratio might be too tall.

[skyking]

US gear is a 0.80 OD ratio.
Or if you get a UD, it would be a 1.25.

[orbywan]

Originally Posted by skyking

US gear is a 0.80 OD ratio.
Or if you get a UD, it would be a 1.25.

So a .80 OD on a 4.10 would be 3.28. Based on other vehicles I've installed overdrives on, I think that might be too much of a drop. I think somewhere in the 3.5 to 3.8 range would be ideal. I need to talk to some more diesel people, I don't know. Thanks for the numbers.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by orbywan

OK, I've been in the sun too long, let me see if I understand your description. "I ended up inserting the 6" stainless probe of a dial thermometer to hold the detente fuel door open (you're referring to the little spring loaded door in most or all late model gas tank fill necks, yes?) after the first clickoff. (and you insert this tube down the tank fill neck to hold the little door open after the nozzle has kicked itself off the first time)."

Then you proceed to fill up i.e., skyking's description, till the level is static. My beast has no spring loaded fuel door so I don't know why I'm asking other than to assure myself the Alzhymer's isn't getting worse.

No,you're fine (or no worse off than me)!
*I set the delivery rate at the lowest setting on the handle.
*When the nozzle clicks off,I remove the nozzle.
*I ground myself
*Insert the 6" stem of the thermometer down the filler neck
*Re-insert the nozzle
*And pump as slow as I can,bringing the fuel up the neck until it just stands there motionless,just short of spilling out.
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*If I can get to the same pump each time,oriented in the same direction,if there is any variation in calibration between pumps,it will cancel out these differences,as it's always the same pump.Excepting road trips,where it's anyone's guess as to calibration.

[orbywan]

Originally Posted by aerohead

No,you're fine (or no worse off than me)!
*I set the delivery rate at the lowest setting on the handle.
*When the nozzle clicks off,I remove the nozzle.
*I ground myself
*Insert the 6" stem of the thermometer down the filler neck
*Re-insert the nozzle
*And pump as slow as I can,bringing the fuel up the neck until it just stands there motionless,just short of spilling out.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
*If I can get to the same pump each time,oriented in the same direction,if there is any variation in calibration between pumps,it will cancel out these differences,as it's always the same pump.Excepting road trips,where it's anyone's guess as to calibration.

OK, I'll try that. Can't wait for it to cool off a little so I can get back on this. Do you think lengthwise strakes running front to back on the belly pans are benefitial enough to try them?

To put it a different way, if you only had time to do one or the other, would you build fairings for the duallies and front wheels, or put lengthwise strakes on the belly pans?