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Old 12-06-2008, 05:37 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestDrive View Post
Have you given up on the "second windshield" / aero-visor?
Was the proto-type aero-visor still in use when you hit the deer?
I was getting ready to make improvements on and reinstall the "second windshield" when I had the wreck, which ate up the parts, time, and funds I had budgeted for that project. Perhaps this spring I'll get back to it again.

Its been over a year and a half since I had the "second windshield" installed so it wasn't on when I hit the deer.

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Old 12-06-2008, 05:48 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestDrive View Post
  1. Does the rear hatch latch from the exterior of the vehicle? If so, could you show a close-up.
  2. Is there duct work connecting the variable air inlet in the nose piece with the radiator?
  3. How large was the deer? Fawn, yearling, two-four years old, a big ol' one?
  4. Would you please take front and side view of the front with the engine cover raised? (Basically, I'm interested in the upper radiator support.)

Thanks in advance.
The rear hatch uses the original hatch's hinge. I just removed that black plastic spoiler at the top of the original hatch and attached the lexan to the metal hinge frame that originally held the spoiler.

The air inlet empties into the interior of the nosepiece and then enters through the original grill openings. The original bumper and grill are still in place under the nosepiece.

The deer was a full grown doe.

I'll take some pictures on Monday when I get off work. My nosepiece is attached to top, sides, and bottom of the plastic of the original front bumper and its upper edge runs just below the headlights and the front of the hood.
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Old 12-06-2008, 06:43 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
I'm not sure what the Insight's engine layout code is, or how exactly the mouting system is designed, but I do know that it requires expensive engine management controls, and I've yet to see anyone actually get one to work perfectly in another chassis.
But you know of some who have tried? Could you point me to more info - I'd be really interested in seeing that.
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:10 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basjoos View Post
The rear hatch uses the original hatch's hinge. I just removed that black plastic spoiler at the top of the original hatch and attached the lexan to the metal hinge frame that originally held the spoiler.
I probably didn't express my question too clearly. What keeps the rear hatch from bouncing open when you go over a speed bump a little too fast?
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Old 12-06-2008, 08:52 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestDrive View Post
I probably didn't express my question too clearly. What keeps the rear hatch from bouncing open when you go over a speed bump a little too fast?
The hatch was held closed by a hatch release pin that is connected to the car's original hatch release actuator cable. I haven't had time to rebuild the release pin mechanism since the wreck, so the the hatch is currently held shut by two screws. I've made all of the parts for the pin release mechanism and plan to get it installed this week.
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:06 PM   #156 (permalink)
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The nice thing about the aluminum bar and sheet construction is that it takes a very small and inexpensive tool set to do it. Everything added onto my car has been builrt with the following toolset: jigsaw, cordless drill (and drill bits), heat gun (for heat setting coroplast and lexan), hacksaw, tin snips, 2 large pipe wrenches (for bending aluminum bar), measuring tape, pipe taps, tap holder, box cutter (for cutting coroplast), philips screwdriver, pop rivet gun, paint brush, and caulk gun.
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Old 12-07-2008, 01:45 AM   #157 (permalink)
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What were the pipe taps used for?
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:14 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Quote:
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What were the pipe taps used for?
Cutting threads for 8-32 screws in the holes I drilled in the aluminum bar.
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Old 12-07-2008, 06:25 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basjoos View Post
Cutting threads for 8-32 screws in the holes I drilled in the aluminum bar.
Ok. Now I understand.

The nomenclature must be different in SC. Any place I've been "pipe taps" could only refer to standard plumbing tapered pipe taps.
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Old 12-07-2008, 06:37 PM   #160 (permalink)
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I should have said "hand tap". "Pipe tap" is a generic term for any sort of tap among some of the folks I work with.

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