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Old 03-07-2009, 12:14 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcb View Post
bamboo, brown paper, and PVA (or something more organic?). Won't be real durable, but will be easy to fix.
Seriously? I was going to try the super-cheap 'porous cardboard layered with brushed-on fiberglass epoxy' route myself, but your method sounds like fun-please, tell us more.

Or PM me if you think we're getting off-topic.

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Old 03-27-2009, 05:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=naturalextraction;91144]
Oh, I run pure diesel in the engine. So far I've run it on E-85 (worst in mileage by the way) different octanes of gasoline, kerosene, and blends as you mentioned. It has run on vegetable oil, but that was a mess and was difficult to keep the oil at an optimum for combustion. It's easier at the pump to just put whatever, that was the idea. It burns clean based on the method in which the induction system design and fuel goes through a phase change prior to entering the induction system. But that gets off topic here.
[QUOTE]

PHASE CHANGE??? Naturalextraction, please, do tell! Even if you have to start a new thread! Now gaseous diesel sounds really promising. You don't have to divulge all your speed secrets but this subject is really interesting. I would really like to see one of these engines in operation.
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Hi beater911, It's something I've been working on for about 4 years now. I actually work primarily in new eco-home construction and modifications to improve energy efficiency in homes or commercial buildings. I'm an ol hot rodder and have worked in the auto industry technically since the mid early 90's. Our system will be going through quite a bit of testing primarily at Sandia Labs and still working on utilizing the engineering department at UNM to help with automation. It's a fairly simple system. I can't market anything regarding it till all is finalized and will mostly be utilized on fleet and military. You wont believe the "stuff" to go through for general public automotive use. Thus the extensive testing and tweaking. You can view my semi-private blog at Energy Extraction. I have different variations of this system at work right now. It's actually rather disappointing that this type of delivery system in it's basic structure is about 60 years old. I've developed a more efficient means to get it at the point it is and have two separate device to file patents on. All prior patent searches have been completed. Writing out the patent in itself is a mind numbing amount of work. It was easier to build the dang thing than spell it all out the way they want it. Very time consuming. I've had this working for over a year now, and may still be another year before I can get it to any public or private use. Also funding has been cut from the new administration, I won't get into details but was rather disappointing, especially from programs that were related to new energy research canceled without even 30days notice.
There are many technical changes that can be made to better extract the internal energy in fuel. I'm just trying to make it more feasible from exsisting current methods.
I like this ecomodder site because it mostly discusses common scenes applications that have been pushed aside through main stream thinking. So kudos to whomever put this thing together. I'd like to share some other basic ideas that I've implemented that have proven established results. As you'll see on my sight we use a rear wheel dyno and have many different methods of testing to account for accuracy. The Labs provide many other means and methods for further understandings and confirmations. But I can't suggest modifications or altering what is existing on modern cars at it becomes a liability issue, even in blogs. My attorney is extremely adamant about it. FYI we use real science from thermal dynamic applications and physics without stepping on any of those fundamental laws. No sudo-science here. If YOU want to start a new blog related maybe I can finagle some ideas in it that can help that are more basic for DIY'rs that may not be so big a deal... thanks.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:10 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by derangedhermit View Post
My personal opinion on the hp needed differs from his. I think it's a matter of motorcycle safety to have acceleration that can at least keep up with most vehicles around you at low (0-50 mph) speed. 15 lbs all-up weight per hp would be good. For a 350 lb machine with 250 lbs of rider, gear, etc, that means 40 hp. To me 20 lbs/hp is kinda low, and that still means 30 hp - about twice what Vetter ballparks. If you agree with that, then 400cc-500cc is a good range to look in, and even a 650cc single or twin tuned for economy could be a very good choice.
At low speeds one simply needs appropriate gears. My Ninja 250 was a bit bothersome off the line, but after 4K, it screamed past traffic. 26HP at the rear according to one dyno. 300+200=19lb/rwhp.

My Burgman is the same boat, it will accelerate just fine past traffic, and the dyno charts I've seen place between 18 and 19 at the rear. 425+200=32-34lb/rwhp.

Clearly something is very amiss with your numbers, as with a fresh belt, (a requirement of pulling the full torque from the Burger's engine), I can out-accelerate stock Civic's.

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